minnie ball related info

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member


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its critical you select a Minie ball that's very close to the rifles bore diameter
calibers 45, 50, 54, 58 are the most popular and in my experience caliber 54 and 58 caliber,
have a huge advantage in
their effect on game
over smaller lighter weight projectiles
AND one that will stabilize with the rifles twist rate.
powder charges must be heavy enough to expand the minie ball base firmly into the rifles bore but not higher,

as much higher pressure will flare the base destroying accuracy.
remember pressure is reduced as the minie travels down the bore,

and powder softening, and dissolving lube, on the projectile is critical to keeping the bore fouling minimized
Ive found that a cotton ball over the powder charge with a bore diameter ball of powder
dissolving lube seated in the bore before the minie ball is firmly seated over the powder charge aids accuracy and removes fouling considerably
many black powder rifles use rifle twist rates too slow to accurately stabilize a minie ball,
as they are designed to use a patched round ball only.
its been my experience that because the black powder rifle velocity tends to be noticeably slower than modern firearms
effective ranges and impact energy tend to be shorter/ lower.

while its a P.I.T.A, its also a fact that most rifles don't shoot ALL mini balls equally well, in fact some mini balls won't shoot worth crap in some barrels , or with certain loads, used, in some barrels. so you'll need to cast or buy and try several, with different loads ,
before you can find out if a particular load works reasonably well in your rifle with its bore condition.
and rifle twist rate and rifling depth, lube used etc.

I once owned a 1861 spring-field replica that shot 500 grain weight mini balls from several molds,
very accurately with 60-70 grains of 2F powder, if the proper loading procedure and powder charge were used.
push the powder charge to 80 grains or higher and groups went from 2"-3" at 100 yards to over 2 ft in diam.
even limited to that 70 grain/mini ball max powder charge it was devastatingly effective on deer.

but you damn sure needed to know the range to hit a deer past 120 yards, as that mini dropped rapidly after that range
I felt like it was more mortar than rifle out at 150-200 yards, past that , range , making hits with that rifle, well, it was a wild guess at best
 
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/609127 ... hale-style
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/630234 ... -530-grain
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https://www.amazon.com/Tire-Tube-Mo...t=&hvlocphy=9026987&hvtargid=pla-838771049259

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this is the same soap base grease in a larger container and cheaper per pound and easier to locate than the smaller container below
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the soap paste is similar to peanut butter or axle grease as it comes out of the can, wet a patch with water and rub a bit into both surfaces to get a well greased patch that makes loading a patched ball fairly easy
http://www.colpalcommercial.com/brands.aspx?id=1730


load powder charge followed by a cosmetic cotton ball followed by a bore diameter glob of the murphy's soap lube, and finally the mini,
ram in place firmly
your bore will remain clean as long as this is followed
 
Thank you for the very useful information. May I also suggest a very interesting 0.58 caliber paper cartridge former, specifically designed for a classic Civil War load: a 60-grain powder charge and a 500-grain Minie ball. Additionally, you can also make cartridges with round balls. Here are examples of classic Civil War loads: 60/500 and a 100-grain load for round balls. https://peacemaker.store/products/paper-cartridge-former-58


 

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