My Cam Research for the Experts Eye

Alt sits in front of head/valve cover so nowhere for it to move back unless I reconfigure all brackets.
So I guess you are saying that the back of the alternator would hit the head if you tried to move it back. Seems your only option to get away from the 3rd pulley groove would be to move the alternator such that it can move back, it either up or down. I'm using a short water pump and two groove pulleys. The photo shows the alternator aligning with the first groove. This is an old photo, I now have two grooves for all, pump, crank and alternator.

Exactly! What I may do is get aluminum pulleys for a bit less weight and stay with long pump setup.I guess I'll stay with the 7 3/4 balancer pulley vs smaller which would underdrive everything.
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OK, but what will you do with the alternator if you cannot move it back with the cylinder head in the way ? UP or DOWN ?

For some small pocket change you could go serpentine belt by March. :cool:

I was considering ICT alternator bracket that leaves it in the same place.
Stock bbc has a large alt bracket at the top that's sturdy but has to attach thru front corner intake bolt. I'd rather not do that.
Only accessory is an alternator, no power steering.
I will look at March, etc to get a good idea of my options before buying anything, thanks.

Edit - I ordered aluminum pulleys from CVF, nice cnc machining, alt bracket from ICT, and Gates hi flow long water pump (simply has the plate added to the impeller). This should get the front stuff done and I can move on.
I was also looking at the RPM intake again and may spring the dough for it, there's almost an exact match to the head ports. My Performer intake is .4" shorter at the port height which I think is too much and not readily adaptable for porting as that will thin the casting too much.

Edit 2: I went ahead and ordered the Edelbrock RPM 7161 intake. Amazon had a price drop that I couldn't resist in today's high price world. So today was parts ordering day lol.
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theres always options, thats why I purchased a MILLING MACHINE,
(which I unfortunately was forced to sell, when moving to texas)

your only limited by your potential lack of imagination, skills and tools like a drill press and welder
,or what you can design and draw plans for, that your local machine shop can build for you
that might make acquiring custom mount brackets , spacers, adapters etc. and associated parts hard to fabricate!
just because a parts not easy to buy off the shelf for your particular application, in no way limits what you can build/fabricate or use.

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Hi Grumpy, yes I can pretty much fabricate anything I need and have often done so. In this case I liked the ICT setup so I went with that.
If it was just the engine build alone I might have taken the time to make my own brackets but buying a decent quality set gives me time to continue on the car itself. Still have a lot to do to just get the engine and running.
I've got front/rear engine mounts that I made (no side mounts) so I didn't want to lower the alternator position.
Should you just face it and agree it's going to be next year before you drive this fine 57 Chevy ??? Take the time to build it like it should be ???

I had to face that question several years back ............ I'm just asking ?
I think it will be a driver this year, but I learned a long time ago that a hobby is enjoyable if you don't try to make it fit into timeframes.
Actually the overall progress has been pretty good considering everything is getting re-done. And I've not cut corners on the engine or the car.
The time spent has been worth it!
Projects like these teach you that you learn something new every day.
Knowledge is power. And no one can take it from you.

Except Alzheimer's and brain farts, which I have daily.
I'm so glad I first posted my cam questions - I definitely still don't know a lot, but I've learned a lot.
I reasonably expect a running engine in the car, meaning I'll have fuel and electrical, gauges done to support it. I still need to rebuild the th400 as a progress milestone. I'm familiar with these older 3 speeds but still takes time.
Suspension and rest of drive line are done, IF engine is good and IF transmission is good lol that will be ready for first drive. Interior is the least of my concern. I've already modified floor and bracing for bucket seats so I won't need a bucket to drive it :D
Here's the setup for the alternator, parts look of good quality.

RPM intake

CVF cnc aluminum pulleys - very nice pieces
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At first look yes I did. But a further look showed that the alt couldn't be shifted further back without moving it up or down. I didn't want to do that.
With the alt in current position I need to use the 2 groove wp pulley and the 3 groove crank pulley. Belt rides on outer groove of both in order to match alt pulley. This is all with a long water pump.
I know it all fits because that's what was in it before. When I found these nice quality aluminum pulleys it let me install some lighter pulleys but keep the same arrangement.
If I went to short water pump or moving alt it changes a number of things without any real advantage. Plus there's a possible interference with control arm if I were to move alt down and back.
I received the eight 7.5" intake pushrods today, so valvetrain is ready to be assembled.
Actually I've got just about everything to finish engine assembly.

The balancer shaft was in good shape but since the timing gasket kit included a sleeve w sealant, I decided to install it to get a "new" smooth surface. I used my press to push the new sleeve on, careful to keep it squared up. I then installed it on the crank with a super thin smear of permatex #2 on the shaft ID/key way to avoid a leak. Tightened to 110# with new ARP balancer bolt kit - I really liked this as the bolt extends quite far into the crank, plenty of thread engagement.

Old wp impeller looked good but it's a standard flow pump. I wasn't re-using it.

Newly painted Gates pump has a "P" added to part number to indicate a high flow "Performance" pump, which has a slightly different impeller with a plate added to it. Very reasonable cost for higher flow.

Valvetrain cleaned and oiled. The pushrods were actually very clean to start with but I did them anyway. Rockers and polylocks were fairly dirty - trunions were stiff at first until I got the semi-dry assembly lube out, now nice and smooth. Lifters directions specifically said no solvent so they went straight into the oil bath.
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Valvetrain installed, Morel lifters, Trickflow pushrods, Harland Sharp rollers.




I also double checked that the rocker trunions were correctly orientated for the polylocks.

Unfortunately my M/T valve covers are too short for this setup, so I ordered a set of tall covers.

I'll give the rockers an initial adjustment, then install intake and water pump. I think at that point the engine's ready to go back into the car.
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several options exist, in valve cover spacers, and taller valve covers ,obviously. clearance, quality features, and price varies ... ystem.aspx

related info

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Thanks Grumpy, I considered spacers but just decided to get another set of covers at a reasonable cost.
I'll check your info on vc gasket material as well.