Noise at Cold Startup - Ford Triton 5.4L 3 Valve

Indycars

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I have this ticking noise at startup only when it's cold, lasts about 15 seconds then it goes away. It could be two things, I think I got lucky. It looks like it's an exhaust leak, but it could have been the cam chain tensioner (CCT). People love to ignore it since it goes away, but if it's the CCT this ends up starving the valve train for oil. The gasket blows out and bleeds off oil pressure. When the engine starts it takes 10-15 seconds to pressurize the system and the ticking goes away. The overhead cams run directly in the aluminum head (not bearing), so you end up destroying the heads and more, that's just the tip of the iceberg.

FP01_CamChainTensionerBlownGasket.jpg
FP01_CamChainTensionerInstalled.jpg

Watch the video below and you will see the domino effect the CCT can cause ......


If you have a Ford 5.4L 3V engine then you need to subscribe to this guy's channel. This Ford engine has lots of problems, but if you catch them early then the cost will be significantly less. The cam roller followers cost about $9 each, but let them go when they are telling you that they are going to fail in the next 5,000 to 10,000 miles and it's a new $8,000 engine. If you need to do a full timing job, he has a 3 part video that goes into great detail and lasts a total of about 2.5 hours. I can't say enough good things about this tech !

The exhaust leak can sound very similar to the CCT blown gasket, it goes away after 10-20 seconds. Below is a photo of my 2008 Lincoln Navigator that uses the Ford Triton engine.

FP01_ExhaustManifoldLeakCyl#4_03067.jpg

Below FordTechMakuloco shows us exactly how to replace the exhaust manifold without jacking up the engine.

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I bought the vehicle with 86,000 miles in May of 2019 and it looked liked a garage kept vehicle. I've done several maintenance items including coolant flush including the aux heating in the rear, all new hoses (heater and radiator) and using a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the last two oil changes to make sure the oil system was clean. I was considering doing a complete timing rebuild at 110,000 miles, if I was going in far enough to to see the timing chains and tensioners, I might as well bite the bullet and get everything done while I'm in there. Since I'm retired, my annual mileage is only 6-9K per years, I should be good for another 150,000 or 16 to 25 years. Turns out the clicking was the exhaust leak I hope, I will replace the exhaust manifold in the spring of 2022. Then I will know for sure.

I have too much money and work invested in this vehicle for towing to sell and upgrade to do it all over again. So at this time I'm planning on this being my last vehicle for towing and attending my TBucket events.

With all the Ford F150's running around (17years), there are more than a few Ford Triton 5.4/4.6 L, 3 Valve in use today. So anyone reading this should be paying attention and watching the videos by the FordTechMakuloco.

Ford 5.4L Triton Engine - Vehicle Applications​


VehicleTransmissionDrive WheelsHorsepower @ RPMTorque (lb-ft) @ RPM
Ford Expedition (1997 - 2014)Four-speed automatic / Six-speed automaticRWD / 4WD230 @ 4,250 rpm (2 valve) / 310 @ 5,000 rpm (3 valve)325 @ 2,500 rpm (2 valve) / 365 @ 3,600 rpm (3 valve)
Ford E-Series (1997 - 2017)Four-speed automatic / Five-speed automatic / Six-speed automaticRWD255 @ 4,500 rpm323 @ 2,500 rpm
Ford Falcon (2002 - 2010)Five-speed manual / Four-speed automatic / Six-speed automaticRWD327 @ 5,000 rpm (3 valve) / 422 @ 6,000 rm347 @ 3,500 rpm (3 valve) / 406 @ 3,750 rpm (4 valve)
Ford F-150 (1997 - 2010)Four-speed automatic / Six-speed automaticRWD / 4WD235 hp @ 4,250 rpm (2 valve) / 310 hp @ 5,000 rpm (3 valve)330 lb-ft @ 3,000 rpm (2 valve) / 365 lb-ft @ 3,500 rpm (3 valve)
Ford GT (2004 - 2006)Six-speed manualRWD550 @ 6,500 rpm500 lb-ft @ 3,750 rpm
Ford Mustang (2000 - 2012)Six-speed manualRWD385 @ 6,500 rpm (Cobra R) / 550 @ 6,500 rpm (Shelby GT500)385 lb-ft @ 4,000 rpm (Cobra R) / 510 lb-ft @ 3,750 rpm (Shelby GT500)
Lincoln Blackwood (2002)Four-speed automaticRWD / 4WD300 @ 6,000 rpm355 lb-ft @ 3,750 rpm
Lincoln Navigator (1999 - 2014)Four-speed automatic / Six-speed automaticRWD / 4WD230 @ 4,250 rpm (2 valve) / 310 @ 5,000 rpm (3 valve)325 @ 2,500 rpm (2 valve) / 365 @ 3,600 rpm (3 valve)
 
I should have also mentioned that they are known for the studs breaking or the manifold cracks on cylinder #4 causing the exhaust leaks. To fix the problem Dorman sells the passenger side manifold with 2 studs. Damn just 2 studs !!! The video above shows copper studs, but I'm not sure where they came from.

$68.57

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But another company makes a full set of (1 side) stainless steel studs for the exhaust manifold.


FP02_SSstuds.jpg
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I have been told to buy ONLY Oil Filters with a anti-drain valve for Fords, it just takes too long to get oil pressure all the way up to the cams, thus a little tappet noise until they are full.

Thus I buy WIKs filters.

My 2 cents worth.

Rich
 
I used the Wix 51372 and it has the anti-drain back valve. But now I don't need one since I relocated the filter and it's perfectly vertical. Although the filter I use now is Wix 51060XP, it has the anti-drain back valve, but no bypass valve. The new filter is also 35% bigger now.

FP02_FilterRelocationInstalled_03384.jpg

FP02_FilterRelocationInstalled_03385.jpg
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This stainless hardware for exhaust manifold option, i have read mixed things about it, when looking for bolts for my 04 Durango Hemi with broken exhaust bolts, i lean to not use stainless, likely to brake and/or seize/galling they say? any thoughts?

For sure it will be a pain to fix... :bhow:
 
My understanding is the anti-drain valve keeps the internal pressure, so oil does not drain out of the system.
If that works I have a external oil cooler with a dual filter system. I may switch to that as well.

Rich
 
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i lean to not use stainless, likely to brake and/or seize/galling they say? any thoughts?
Unless you can hunt down something nice from ARP that would work, then stainless maybe your only choice for an upgrade. I would certainly use a NICKLE based anti-seize for it's high temp properties after using a thread cleaner (If you can get in there) and brake cleaner with compressed air. So no, I wouldn't be afraid to use it over an OEM stud.
 
My understanding is the anti-drain vale keeps the internal pressure, so oil does not drain out of the system.
That's not possible with all the main, rod and cam bearings leaking/bleeding off the pressure as soon as the engine stops. Just watch your oil pressure gauge when the engine stops, what does it show.
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anti drain back valves simply prevent all the blocks internal oil passages from draining completely thus speeding the re-pressurization on startup
 
I have rear a number of sites strongly suggesting that for over head cam engines especially the Fords that anti drain filters are need, and that without them tappet noises and ware can happen.

I am just passing on what I have read.

Rich
 
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