oil pans that fit the c4 corvette

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
this kevco is the most common road race sbc oil pan used,
OBVIOUSLY you'll need to ask lots of questions,of the oil pan manufacturers before purchasing an oil pan for your particular application because the c4 corvettes had several engines ranging from cross fire in the 1984-thru l98 with both two and one piece rear seals and lt1-lt4 engines in the later corvettes ,I purchased an aftermarket 6-8 quart rated oil pan for my 1985 corvette with its 383, a fabricated an extended sump so if its filled to the counter weight depth it holds almost 11 quarts, I generally run 9-10 quarts, but that includes the volume in the oil cooler
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you can frequently gain the required clearance for use of a stroker crank , on the stock oil pan, with a few well placed additional dents in the oil pan rail areas with a 3 lb ball peen hammer but the correct route is to buy a baffled oil pan and windage tray with the clearance built in.
when buying a corvette oil pan ground clearance is tight, a baffled 7"-7.5" deep oil pan thats designed for YOUR block that holds 7 quarts is generally the best choice youll need to know which side the dip sticks on and the gaskets thickness used so as questions before ordering to insure you get the correct oil pan for your application
reading through these links, and sub links will be useful


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Small...ash=item5888ff955f:g:mm4AAOSwDN1USU-o&vxp=mtr

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=206&p=390&hilit=+seal+thick+pan#p390

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/#post-524

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/


https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hi-Volume-S-B-Chevy-Claimer-Oil-Pan-Combo-RH-Side-Dipstick,28103.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...alling-connecting-rods-pistons.247/#post-1745

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=10514&p=44478&hilit=corvette+quart#p44478


https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=15-240T

http://www.summitracing.com/search/.../canton-racing-street-strip-wet-sump-oil-pans


http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/21812/ ... tId=763994
Moroso#710-21812
Drag/Road Race Oil Pan
C3 & C4 Corvette, Kit Cars
Low Ground clearance applications
Pre-1980 Small Block Chevy with Driver Side Dipstick
With 2-piece Rear Main Seal
Kicked-Out Sump
Wet Sump 7-quart capacity
Clear Zinc Finish

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/21811/ ... tId=763994
Moroso#710-21811
Drag/Road Race Oil Pan
C3 & C4 Corvette, Kit Cars
Low Ground clearance applications
1986-Up Small Block Chevy with Passenger-Side Dipstick
With 1-piece Rear Main Seal
Kicked-Out Sump
Wet Sump 7-quart capacity
Clear Zinc Finish

c4vettepa.jpg

swapping to a higher capacity baffled oil pan, thats no more than 7.5" deep for road clearance adds reliability
1091_full.gif


Chevrolet Road Race Pan - Part# 1091 RR -

Part# 1091 RR
Chevrolet Road Race Pan, its a bolt in an go.

Road Race 7 1/2" deep, 9 1/2" long, 13 1/2" wide, gates setup for road racing.

Uses Pickup #1018.

1092PP_full.gif


OR

http://canton.carshopinc.com/produc...1-120?osCsid=1864652061e9b34e7648e188bb985ecf
Canton Oil Pans
11-120 and 11-120T Oil Pans
11-120.jpg


YOUR GOING TO WANT TO READ THRU THIS THREAD

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

this 1092p is available and fits in some applications, but stock starters won,t fit, and youll need to do minor welding mods,on the front lower edge to get it to clear some applications

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=C ... on=product

canoilpan.jpg


these pans from midwest, can be adapted, to fit the c4 corvettes frame if you cut the front lower edge of the pan at a 45 degree angle 1" wide and patch it for k-frame clearance

http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-sbchevy.asp

http://www.moroso.com/eb/catalog/navigationPath/1::Catalog/110000::Oil Pans/11001::Chevy Small Block/1103::Road Racing?resetOffset=true&entryId=catalog.productgroup.1110000110011103&expand=true&menuId=main.menu

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... 8&parent=0
 
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You must know I'm shopping for these thanks for the info...I like the added protection of the impact or skid plate. Will these fit the stock or one piece pan gaskets? Does it matter what side the dipstick is on or can it be switched to the driver's side without much hassle?
 
Doodad said:
You must know I'm shopping for these thanks for the info...I like the added protection of the impact or skid plate. Will these fit the stock or one piece pan gaskets? Does it matter what side the dipstick is on or can it be switched to the driver's side without much hassle?

your engine block will determine which oil pan is required
SHOP CAREFULLY , WHEN YOU GO TO BUY AN OIL PAN for your engine or transmission, <AND ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT WILL FIT YOUR CAR CORRECTLY AND ASK FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MATCHING COMPONENTS OR PARTS THAT WON,T FIT

MILODON,
http://www.milodon.com/

CHAMP
http://www.champpans.com/products/c/oil-pans/

CANTON,
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/category/1501/Chevy-SS--Road-Race-Oil-Pans/1.html

MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/

AVIAID
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbc.html


STEFS
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm


HAMBURGERPERFORMANCE
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/

KEVKO
https://kevko.myshopify.com/


IF you've wondered why I suggest buying and using a well designed BAFFLED oil pan with 7-8 quart capacity its to prevent the oil from uncovering the oil pump pick-up under performance use.
without control baffles oil sloshes away from the oil pump pick-up

Slosh1.jpg

Slosh3.jpg

Slosh2.jpg

vette-diamondstripperwindagetray001.jpg

IF YOUR GOING TO GET YOUR ROTATING ASSEMBLY PRECISION BALANCED DO SOME RESEARCH ON THE LOCAL SHOPS WORK QUALITY, TRACK RECORD
baln8.jpg

Mallory metal
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Mallory metal is proprietary name[1] for an alloy of tungsten, with other metallic elements added to improve machining.


Its primary use is as a balance weight which is added to the crankshaft of an automotive engine, where the existing counterweight is not large enough to compensate for the weight of the reciprocating and rotating components attached to the crankshaft's connecting rod journals. Rather than add to the counterweight by welding or fabrication, holes are drilled in structurally safe positions in the counterweights, and "slugs" (cylindrical dowels) of Mallory metal are inserted and fastened securely.


The difference in density between the replacement Mallory metal and the original steel is about 2:1, so the counterweight is heavier without changing its shape or size.
9227171_n.jpg

OBVIOUSLY a machine shop doing balancing work on a rotating assembly's , and adding mallory metal slugs to counter weights,on the crank must do quality work or problems with durability usually result that get damn expensive or dangerous

BTW you may find freeze plugs that look like this on blocks and cylinder heads, especially from engine rebuilder machine shops, the "exterior outside BUTTONs are made from a very special low melt metal like bismuth thats specifically designed too melt and distort if the blocks coolant temp reaches about 250-260F indicating and proving beyond question that you over heated the engine and voided your warranty
http://www.silver-seal.com/category/shop.1_cylinder_head_rebuilding.2_heat_tabs/
http://www.engineheattabs.com/products
overh1.jpg

overh2.jpg

overh3.gif

overh4.jpg


heatindicator.jpg


btw torque converters are frequently painted with a very special paint that changes color at a specific temperature for the exact same reason, proof you voided the warranty and failed to run the transmission fluid thats supposed to act as a lubricant and coolant within the designed temperature range, they did not select the pink or purple because they like the color, its done to reduce warranty cost issues , if you over heat the converter its waranty is void
809825.jpg

https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop-custom-paint/temperature-changing-paint/

https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop-custom-paint/temperature-changing-paint/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-cooler-info-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ans-cooler-on-a-c4-corvette.10514/#post-44478
 
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Grumpy I know you own a 1996 corvette so you should know the answer to my problem,
I change my oil and filter regularly but I generally have the dealership do the oil change about every 6K miles , well this time I decided Id do the oil and filter change and I put the car up on ramps and I used the wix oil filter that the counter guys suggested and added 6 quarts of mobile 10w30 and everything seemed ok, until about 150 miles later when the
"DUE FOR OIL CHANGE" light came on,
NOW WHAT DID I DO WRONG? I CHECKED THE OIL LEVEL<
ITS CLEAN AND AT THE CORRECT LEVEL?


It sounds like you did almost everything correctly EXCEPT ,
you forgot to RE-SET the computer so it KNOWS you did the oil change,
that dash light message is almost totally based on MILEAGE traveled,
between the computer suggested reset messages,
and if you don,t tell it you did the oil change it simply assumes you did not do it yet.
heres a recommended WIX 51036 oil filter, changing the oil every 6K miles, is a bit more frequent than required with MOBILE 1 oil but certainly won,t hurt
and there are other quality oil filters you could select
bosch 3430 PF52 Purolator L24011

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...996/make/chevrolet/model/corvette?prefilter=1

buying a magnet similar to this one too place on the filter base is a bit of extra insurance
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RY084
RY084L.jpg


If your reading this thread and don,t have one, you need one of these tools, ID get one of your old oil filters opened up and inspected,
and ID darn sure be using several magnets to trap loose metallic crud,
is there any chance you or the machine shop, failed to clean the oil pan or block completely and thoroughly?
the metallic debris might be left over debris from the previous engine if the parts used were not correctly cleaned before reassembly!
fillcut1.jpg


fillcut2.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/magnets.120/#post-49771

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...himmer-in-the-oil-catch-pan.11397/#post-52207

If you have a cam or lifter , or rocker arm , fail, its going to rapidly cause a constant steam of metallic micro trash to enter the oil flowing through the engine, its only a mater of time before that metallic trash causes other moving component wear issues
this is one reason changing oil filters, rather frequently (at least every 7-8K miles)
(IDEALLY the long versions with extra surface area)
and having previously installed several high temp magnets in an engine, you build,
is rather critical too preventing similar damage in any future engine builds

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/metallic-debris-in-filter.12364/#post-61283

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...filters-wix-vs-royal-purple.12988/#post-67560

RESET OIL CHANGE MILEAGE COUNT
Turn the key to the "ON" position, but don't start the engine.
Press the "ENG MET" button on the trip monitor and release.
Then, within five seconds, press and release the "ENG MET" button again.
Within five seconds of Step 2, press and hold the "GAUGES" button on the trip monitor.
The "CHANGE OIL" light will flash.
Hold the "GAUGES" button until the "CHANGE OIL" light stops flashing and goes out.
When the light goes out, the engine oil life monitor is reset.
If it doesn't reset, turn the ignition "OFF" and repeat the procedure.




http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/inspecting-filter.4611/#post-12332
 
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