heres a short list
REMEMBER the object or goal in building and maintaining the lubrication system is too maintain a 100% dependable pressurized cooling flow of lubricant to the bearings, rockers ,valves etc. your most important tool, is your ability to think about how things are supposed to work, correctly, and your skill at maximizing the intended results that the lube system allows you to provide or modify to enhance that intended oil flow and where it goes in the running engine.
obviously use of a high quality synthetic oil that has a higher heat tolerance and that tends to break down slower and a decent quality oil filter are the first steps, and having a decent 7-8 quart baffled oil pan and the correct bearings will help a great deal, I've generally preferred to use CLEVITE (H) style bearings as I've found they work well in most high stress applications
nothing else you can add or do to any engine will increase long term durability , or will work as well as regular oil and high quality filter changes with new oil and filters at least every 7-9K miles with good quality synthetic oil
www.pegasusautoracing.com
(1)drill the front pass side lifter gallery oil passage plug with a .035 drill so it sprays oil on the rear of the timing chain gear and chain
if its a .035-.039 hole it will provide a bit extra lubrication without causing a problem with your oil pressure, just be aware of that drill size, basically a 1/32"-#72 drill, so use a drill press and take your time those bits are easy to break
there's at least a few hours of very worth while , and quite useful reading in this thread and links that will prevent you wasting time and money, keep in mind the sub links contain a huge wealth of additional info you'll need
what seems to be over-looked in many engine builds is simply the fact you'll almost always DEEPLY regret jumping into the engine build with both feet and waving your check book as you sink ever deeper into piles of parts receipts and machine shop bills, rather than stepping back with a legal pad, and a calculator and listing in minute detail exactly what you want to accomplish, and taking the time and effort too list and check out in detail what each machine shop procedure costs, why its required and how much each components costs, what your options are and how each component will add too or benefit the completed combo (or in some cases cause you time and grief)
stepping back and thinking things through in detail and listing the cost and potential problems and finding the solutions BEFORE you dive into the process may be a lot less fun, but in the long term its sure to cost less and result in a far better finished project!
you might be amazed at what a couple hours research into the subject will do to help you build a much more durable engine, and actually reading thru links and sub-links and asking questions helps a great deal
BTW if you soak a new timing chain and gears in a pan , covering them in a mix of synthetic oil and moly assembly lube and heat them to about 220 degrees to allow the oil to penetrate into the metals pores it will tend to pre-lubricate the chain and gears more effectively than just installing them dry, and from what Ive seen they last slightly longer, a cheap tin pan can be used, and if you don't have an IR temp gun(you really should get one) adding a 1/4 teaspoon of water to the oil and watching it boil off as an indicator that the oils up to temp is a good idea, as you don,t want to over heat the oil or smoke up the kitchen
Ive always found the best results from keeping the low rpm pressure , in the 15psi-20psi at hot idle and no more than 65psi at high rpms,is really useful, the volume required depends on the way the engines clearances and oil systems designed or modified , volume/viscosity/clearances in the approximately stock range works fine in most .
I like high volume pumps but I certainly don't use them IF the engines nearly stock as the standard Z28 SBC pump works fine
"the standard volume pump gears are about 1.2" long the high volume pump gears are about 1.5 inches long (depends on manufacturer)
here's the descriptions right from chevy
I should obviously point out that one very basic but critical addition to any performance engine build would be to swap to a 7-8 quart capacity, baffled oil pan, with a windage tray, the greatly improved oil control and capacity could and usually does aid considerably in increased bearing, and valve train component life span!
www.jegs.com
www.champpans.com
READ THE RELATED LINKED INFO
https://garage.grumpysperformance.c...igh-volume-vs-standard-chevy-oil-pumps.15902/
12555884
SBC Oil Pump, High Pressure Z28/LT1. Production high-pressure oil pump with 1.20" gears.
Will produce 60-70 psi oil pressure. Does not include screen. The pickup tube dia. is 5/8" for this pump.
62.17
the true high volume pumps like this below are not necessary UNTILL you've done extensive mods that require the extra oil flow volume
14044872
SBC Oil Pump, High-Volume. This high-volume pump has1.50" long gears.It has approximately 25% more capacity than a production pump at standard pressure. Does not include screen."
https://www.chevydiy.com/1955-1996-chevy-small-block-performance-guide-oiling-system-manual-part-9/
BTW if your building a big block chevy engine, Big blocks have a tendency to trap air in the front of the oil passages feeding the lifters, which causes a rocker tap on start up. Because of this, there is a recessed Allen head oil galley plug behind the timing gear on the drivers side that has a hole drilled into it. This hole bleeds off air trapped in the front of the oil galley, and it also lubricates the back of the timing gear. This was a stock-from-the-factory modification to the oil galley, on some bbc engines.
removal of the drilled oil passage plug with a solid galley plug (a BAD idea) or if a piece of trash or silicone in the oil passage that managed to block this galley plug, will usually result in lifter noise and lack of oil flow for a few minutes that can cause wear on the cam and lifters. its suggested one of the plugs get drilled ,drill the lifter gallery plug with a #72-1/32" drill to prevent this
http://freezeplugfactory.com/expansion-plug-size-chart/
Brass Cup Plugs
PART NOSIZEMILLIMETERPART NOSIZEMILLIMETER
1025/16 7.939
146
1 1/2
38.1
103 3/8 9.525 147 1 9/16 39.69
NOTICE THESE TWO SIZES ABOVE FIT MANY DIP STICK HOLES
be sure not to insert oil passage plugs into oil gallery passages too deeply
threading the oil passage plugs increases durability and I generally suggest drilling an oil pray jet hole thats .031-.035 in the pass side oil pass plug, THE ONE AS YET UN THREADED IN THE PICTURE ABOVE
www.youtube.com
keep in mind that as oil temps increase the oil viscosity tends to decrease, thus cold oil, at lets say 70F might cause the oil pressure gauge to read 50 psi at idle but the pressure reading slowly goes down to 25 psi once the oils reached lets say 210F, this is normal and expected
watch this video
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-10990/?rtype=4
read these links, or miss a large percentage of the useful info
http://www.milodon.com/oil-system/oil-pumps.asp
http://www.chevydiy.com/oil-lubrication-systems-guide-big-block-chevy-engines/
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... ngine.aspx
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... ology.aspx
Cam gear or distributor gear wear is usually NOT caused by the high volume pump itself, but by insufficient internal engine running clearances.
THE CAM MANUFACTURER WILL BE ONLY TOO GLAD TO SELL THE CORRECT MATCHING DISTRIBUTOR GEAR TOO YOU
and like a lifter on a cam lobe it is usually going to last longer if both the cam and distributor gear are new, coated with moly assembly grease and allowed to lap in and mate surfaces , rather than use used worn distributor gears on new cams
Chevy V-8's, small block, big block, and 90? V-6 engines, all use splash lubrication to oil the distributor gear. Although higher RPM operation provides sufficient lubrication to prevent wear, low speed use can be a problem. The situation can become critical if a high volume oil pump is used. The high volume oil pump was developed for engines where bearing clearances were increased over stock. These work fine in racing engine applications, where extra clearance is provided in the short-block.
However, when a high volume oil pump is used in an engine with stock internal clearances, the increased volume of oil can't flow through the engine fast enough to relieve the back pressure created. This places an increased load on the distributor gear, and leads to accelerated wear.
Once the gear on either an 8620 steel cam or a cast iron cam is worn excessively, the cam itself must be scrapped! There is no repair for this problem, and the only option is to buy a new cam. To eliminate this annoying and expensive problem, we offer a simple, do-it-yourself way to help oil the distributor gear and reduce this accelerated wear in Chevy V-8 and 90? V-6 engines.
On these engines, the lower portion of the distributor housing drops through the oil gallery that supplies oil to the lifters on the passenger side of the engine. Two rings at the bottom of the distributor housing seal the top and bottom of this galley. Oil flows around the distributor, between the two rings.
Solving distributor gear wear is as simple as filing or machining a .030" groove in the bottom ring of the distributor housing. A three cornered file can also be used.
The distributor housing should be grooved in any engine operated for extended periods at low engine RPM. With the distributor installed in the engine - ready to run - the groove should face TOWARDS THE CAMSHAFT. This will provide a reasonable flow of oil to lubricate and cool the distributor gear and cam gear as they operate.
Remember to keep the groove facing the camshaft, and be sure to use the correct Crane high silicon, copper alloy distributor gear for best results.
Its smart to file a small groove in the lower distributor so oil spray from the oil passage constantly lubricates the distributor gear to cam gar contact point
you might find reading these threads above interesting
a very effective custom built windage tray can be fabricated for most oil pans from perforated steel, if you have minimal metal working and measuring skills
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-pressure-switch-on-fuel-pump-circuit.16013/
ADDING A WELL DESIGNED WINDAGE SCREEN SPEEDS OIL RETURN SPEEDS . AND EFFICIENCY TO THE ENGINE SUMP
Its smart to file a small groove in the lower distributor , or the block so oil spray from the oil passage constantly lubricates the distributor gear to cam gar contact point
(2)groove the lower 1/3rd of the lifter bores with a comp cams lifter bore tool
(3)braze the oil pump pickup so its locked at 1/2" off the pan floor after careful measurements are taken
(4)groove the lower block where the distributor lower band seats in line with the cam gear to provide extra oil to that gear
(5)use a windage screen mounted 1/8" from the outer arc of the rotating assembly
(6)us a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan, and a high flow oil cooler with a separate electrical fan sure helps in some applications
(7) after, clearance checks carefully install , 6 magnets, two in the rear of each cylinder head,(one per head) two near the lifter gallery oil drain back holes and in the 4 corners of the oil pan sump
(8) if using a flat tappet solid lifter cam use the crower PREMIUM lifters with the hardened/polished bases and .020 EDM oil spray hole in the base, and a hardened PREMIUM cam core
(9) If you require a high volume oil pump use a 5 bolt big block design, with a 3/4" pick-up as they tend to run smoother
(10) if you've got the clearance use the longer high capacity oil filters
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yes you can groove the lifter bore walls to provide greater oil flow to the cam lobes and lifter base contact area,but read the instructions ! the tool comes with instructions, but keep in mind that you want to do is just increase oil flow rates not destroy a block, the grooves you cut are barely noticeable, only on the lower 1/3rd of the lifter bore and only about 5 -10 thousands deep, and just provide a bit more oil flow to the cam lobes
I lent that tool out to one friend that cut grooves far too deep effectively ruining a block
you can also just sand a flat spot on the lower 1/3rd of the lifter body with 600 grit sand paper on a sheet of glass this will also increase oil flow but remember the lifter spins in the bore so the groove supplies a steady stream of oil the flat spot throws a rapidly pulse flow
or if your into serious mods
you might find these threads and sub linked info useful
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... pumps.aspx
lifters with oil feed grooves
I suppose you could do these oil feed mods and groove the lower lifter bores and distributor gear oil feed groove, while you used a strong vacuum cleaner and magnets to limit the metallic debris ,on a partially assembled engine, but I've never tried it, I do the minor machine work to a clean bare block even before the cam bearings are installed and carefully clean it, and all the oil passages with a rifle bore brush high pressure air and solvents, several times before installing the cam bearings, I generally prefer to start with the block on an engine stand that I can rotate easily for full access.
as a general tip, marking the distributor shaft so the oil sprays on the cam gear/distributor gear mesh/contact area helps,
durability, if its correctly located and its not too large,
but that depends to some extent to be helpful on getting the oil flow groove correctly indexed,
and that might be screwed up a bit if its not placed correctly , now obviously if the engines in the car and assembled its not a good idea to start doing this,,
it helps during the initial engine assembly if you put some thought into the build before you get too far into the build,
if you have the bare block at some point to groove the area in the block where the distributor seats,
just a bit with a very small second groove as the picture indicate,
as that ill always be in the correct location and does not depend on the distributors position in the block.
don't get carried away a groove about .008 x.008 (eight thousand's deep x eight thousand's wide in the correct location,) is all that's necessary
keep in mind the distributor base forms one wall of the lifter gallery oil passage
so grooving the lower oil band directly above the point where the gears start to mesh helps spray extra oil on the distributor/cam gears contact area, and yes that changes with distributor position so most guys cut a small fine groove in both the lower block wall and the distributor lower section above that location to assure a constant oil mist spray into the meshing gears
[/color]
The distributor mount hole through the block is at an angle, and the pad where it locks down is cast and machined at a slight angle, after all, the cam shaft center line is DEAD CENTER,in the block and the distributor gear is riding ,with its gear teeth meshed to the side of it. The dist fits fairly tight to the block, since it completes the oil passage in the block to the pass side lifters,but that means the distributor leans just a bit from true vertical , so if you do notice that, its normal, and correct.
THESE LINKS ARE WORTH READING THRU
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/baffle.htm
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
http://prestoliteweb.com/Portals/0/down ... 61_all.pdf
one more potential possible source of metallic debris that could provide the cause of the cylinder bore damage
now if your building an engine you GOING TO DO FREQUENT OIL CHANGES ON AND NEVER LET SLUDGE BUILD UP...you can probably limit that potential valve train shrapnel screens and magnets that trap small destructive crud
shrapnel screens epoxied into the block to prevent valve train failure shrapnel from inducing bearing failure if crap gets sucked into the oil pump is a good idea IF you do frequent oil changes so the screens won,t get sledged up
THE SCREEN ABOVE IS CLOSE TO BEING IDEAL
THE SCREEN ABOVE IS TOO SMALL TO BE IDEAL
I generally use, and advise the use of stainless 6 or 8 mesh screens.
theres lots of options that will work just fine, just remember to keep the oil changed regularly or theres some potential for sludge to clog ANY size shrapnel screens
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/store/main.html
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 6T0350W36T
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 8S0280W36T
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-25026?seid=srese1&gclid=COOf2IODscgCFZKAaQodHWoF1Q
IVE typically used these magnets in an engine, one in the rear oil drain on each cylinder head, one near each lifter gallery drain and 4 in the oil pan sump
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1-2x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608f-temperature/
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_27&products_id=251 (prefered)
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH (acceptable)
use these, magnets linked above, in the lifter gallery and oil drain areas in the cylinder heads, and if you want too, the corners of the oil pan, the normal Neodymium magnets loose strength when subjected to high heat the ones listed ,especially the cobalt magnets are designed to operate under high heat conditions, you certainly don,t want metallic crap that was formally functional Neodymium magnets, that have lost the magnetism loose in the engine, you don,t need a great deal of pull strength, what you need is a way to trap and hold micro fine metallic crud from wear issues and preventing, that crap from getting embedded in bearings or causing wear in moving valve train components
THIS is a good example of what happens to bearings if the oil passages are allowed to push small metallic debris, from wear like rockers,valve tips,cam and lifter wear thru the engine, use of a few small magnets, and shrapnel screens helps reduce or eliminate this
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH
http://freezeplugfactory.com/expansion-plug-size-chart/
Brass Cup Plugs
PART NOSIZEMILLIMETERPART NOSIZEMILLIMETER
1025/16 7.939
146
1 1/2
38.1
103 3/8 9.525 147 1 9/16 39.69
NOTICE THESE TWO SIZES ABOVE FIT MANY DIP STICK HOLES
a high volume oil pump is generally only required if you've done extensive engine mods requiring increased oil flow rates, and ITS use requires a 6-8 qt baffled oil pan and a windage screen to operate correctly, pressure is a measure or resistance to flow, if you've done the mods to increase the flow rates like larger bearing clearances and lifter bore mods then a high volume pump makes sense and the load rates to run it drop significantly, youll generally want to run bearing clearances on the loose side of factory specs with a high volume oil pump and run an oil viscosity that allows you to maintain a minimum of 15psi and a maximum of about 25 psi of oil pressure once the oil temp reaches about 200F at idle rpms
your NOT required to used mobile one oil, most of the name brand oils with the manufacturer suggested viscosity range and API rating
will work reasonably well and not void your warranty
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1334
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2102&hilit=+synthetic
THESE THREADS, and SUB LINKS HOLD MUCH MORE INFO
BTW if you have a sudden drop in oil pressure on any engine with no other symptoms, you might want to replace the oil filter and check oil levels before you panic as its not uncommon for some brands of oil filters to fail internally
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html
http://www.circletrack.com/nls/76818/index.html
http://www.mellingengine.com/TechnicalS ... etins.aspx
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php ... ad&A_id=64
obviously these won,t fit all chevy applications but if you have the room for the longer, spin on filters
The "longer high capacity oil filter" Purolator is L40084.
"longer high capacity oil filter" N.A.P.A: # 1794
"longer high capacity oil filter" ACDelco: PF932
you gentlemen, might want to keep in mind ALL oils are designed to carry heat, from the bearings and combustion process generated crud to the filter , and all oil slowly gets filled with micro crud,soot, acids and breaks down from heat and moisture contamination,over time, oil is cheap compared to major engine failures from lubricated parts failure. and while the newer synthetics are far better, than the older oils, its been my experience that keeping any synthetic oil over about 15,000-18,000 miles between changes even with frequent filter changes is probably a bad idea.
obviously the operational conditions, heat levels and stress levels should be taken into consideration.
now you certainly don,t need to change oil every 3500 miles like has in the past been suggested with the older generation oils. but changing oil every 7,000-8,000 miles certainly won,t be hurting much, and if you want to use the better oils over about 15,000-18,000 miles between changes even with frequent filter changes, thats certainly not likely to cause major issues and changing oil filters every 3500,-4000 mile can,t hurt either
radias and smooth the oil pump gallery feed
notice the welded tabs bracing the oil pump pick-up and that big block pumps have 5 cover screws unlike the small block pump with its 4 screw cover
"How to Hot Rod Big Block Chevrolets" and it is recommended to "add groves to your stock pump to get full load-balancing benefits for both the drive and idler gears" (page 113)
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/res ... ancing.htm
MORE USEFUL INFO
yes the oil flows around the mounting stud,from oil pump to main cap to reach the engine oil passages, thru the oil filter
failure to use the correct oil pump,mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems
ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING AND LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH ROTATION
be sure to verify the oil pump drive shaft won,t binds and has proper clearance
Ive done that mod on several of my BBC oil pumps based on what Id read in that exact book, back in the 1970s, figuring the guys who wrote it knew more than I did, when it first was published, and found it did tend to make the oil pressure a bit more consistent, but that could be because it will cause some minor oil pressure flow leaking back under the spinning gears. it could also be that its no longer a required mod, why?
because some oil pumps already come that way, if you look inside
some moroso pumps come pre machined that way
HERES SOME MODS RECOMMENDED TO THE OIL PUMP
moroso, summit racing etc. sells plug kits
the melling 10990 pump is generally a good choice on a high performance sbc
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-10990/
that .032--.039 hole in the pass side oil passage plug will be Just fine !
the object off drilling the tiny hole for those that don,t know is two fold, first it prevent trapped air in the oil passage from slowing oil reaching the lifters as trapped air is bled off rapidly, secondly it provides a constant flow of extra lube flowing to the chain cam drive even at low rpms
a small hole .032--.039 intersecting the oil feed passage to provide pressurized oil to the rear of the timing gear won,t hurt, and tends to reduce block wear
LOOK CLOSELY THE LEFT LIFTER GALLERY PLUGS DRILLED TO SPRAY OIL
http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piece-t ... 34627.html
you can get a cheap but semi-functional brill bit selection here, and it certainly helps to have a caliper handy
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dia ... 66541.html
drill at least the left oil passage plug with a .025-.031 drill to supply the cam gears with extra oil flow, on a race engine with a high voluum oil pump, and a 7-9 quart oil pan, its a good idea to drill both the center and left plugs as it speeds oil flow reaching the lifters and prevents air being compressed in the passages slowing oil reaching the lifter and cam lobes.
but the main benefit is a constant bath of oil flowing between the rear of the timing sets cam gear and the block, which tends to protect the block surface, and provide extra lube to the timing set.
having a REV-KIT that retains the lifters in their bores, to maintain oil pressure, even if the rocker comes loose or push rods breaks is a good idea
any time you go to install new cam bearings in an engine you first take detailed notes and a few pictures of the OLD cam bearing in the block under good lighting to note the location of the oil feed holes and and grooves, then as they are removed you number them each as its removed and measure them as on many engine they are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE between all main cap locations
25050 Lifter Valley Oil Baffle, Small Block Chevy, including 18° heads Only $33.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/25050/10002/-1
* Increases horsepower by shielding bottom of intake manifold from hot oil
* Keeps surplus oil out of valve covers by eliminating oil splash
* Maintains oil pressure during pushrod or rocker arm failure by keeping lifters in their bores (except with roller cam)
* Due to slight variation in blocks, the baffle may have to be trimmed .060 - .100" before it will "snap" into place
* Cannot be used with roller lifters
keep in mind the sbc oil pump has 7 tooth gears and the big block pumps have 12 teeth making the oil flow smoother and less pulsed, plus having larger gears they tend to supply more oil at lower rpms
look closely and youll see the big block oil pump has a 5 bolt lower cover and the oil pump pick-up with its 3/4" feed seats into the main pump casting while the small block oil pump has a 4 bolt cover and the sbc oil pump pick-up with its 5/8" feed seats into the pumps cover plate
those holes in the back end of the last cam bearing journal on the cam core are there to prevent oil pressure build up behind the cam which could cause the expansion plug in the rear of the block to blow out
you may want to think about installing an accumulator, its a device thats easily added that holds a couple quarts of oil under pressure that insures positive oil pressure
http://www.moroso.com/articles/articledisplay2.asp?article=AboutAccumulator.html&catcode=13600
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1280&p=6082&
hilit=accumulator#p6082
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=5423&p=16167#p16167
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-friction-and-pumping-losses.8966/#post-31978
,its USUALLY not really about the amount of oil as much as controlling the rapid return of oil to the sump so its constantly covering the oil pump pick-up.
just some info, you might need,
depending on the oil pump used, rpms and clearances a chevy V8 will generally push some where between 2 and 6 gallons a minute thru the oil passages, your average oil pan sump holds at most 3 quarts ,while the engines running, and theres generally about 2 or a bit more quarts in the upper engine, (lifter gallery, heads)while the engines running, so when you induce high inertial loads is common for the oil pump pick up to become uncovered even in a baffled oil pan for a few seconds as that 2-3 quarts in the sump slams forward and back in the sump, because remember , lets say your engines only pumping 3 gallons a minute, and theres got to be at least 2 quarts in the sump to keep the oil pump pick-up covered under high inertial loads, its only going to take a few seconds at most under those conditions to suck air into the oil pump. obviously having a baffled 7-8 quart oil pan has advantages under those conditions as theres a good deal larger (SAFETY MARGIN) in the amount of oil present over the oil pump pick-up is you use the higher capacity BAFFLED oil pan with its better oil control and larger sump capacity,, windage screen combo
in some applications adding an oil accumulators a good idea
for the BBC guys
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/show ... apter=7587
http://www.carbideselect.com/burshpescuts.php
DART BLOCKS HAVE A DIFFERENT OIL ROUTE
just keep in mind that you'll need to very carefully blend and smooth and carefully clean,the edges of the beveled area where the oil port feeds the bearing surface with some 600 grit sand paper so the oil flows well and theres no edges to cause bearing wear issues or crud left from the process that would get embedded in the bearings.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11637
watch this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... dEFGJqpCMY
REMEMBER the object or goal in building and maintaining the lubrication system is too maintain a 100% dependable pressurized cooling flow of lubricant to the bearings, rockers ,valves etc. your most important tool, is your ability to think about how things are supposed to work, correctly, and your skill at maximizing the intended results that the lube system allows you to provide or modify to enhance that intended oil flow and where it goes in the running engine.
obviously use of a high quality synthetic oil that has a higher heat tolerance and that tends to break down slower and a decent quality oil filter are the first steps, and having a decent 7-8 quart baffled oil pan and the correct bearings will help a great deal, I've generally preferred to use CLEVITE (H) style bearings as I've found they work well in most high stress applications
nothing else you can add or do to any engine will increase long term durability , or will work as well as regular oil and high quality filter changes with new oil and filters at least every 7-9K miles with good quality synthetic oil
Choosing and Using Engine Oil Coolers - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Looking for information on Choosing and Using Engine Oil Coolers? Then come read about it at Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies!
which torque wrench
these look great, and theres little doubt they are a quality tool. keep in mind the purpose of a torque wrench, its designed to allow you to tighten bolts to a known and consistent and repeatable or duplicate-able level, that insures the bolt or fastened applies a consistent predictable clamping...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
(1)drill the front pass side lifter gallery oil passage plug with a .035 drill so it sprays oil on the rear of the timing chain gear and chain
if its a .035-.039 hole it will provide a bit extra lubrication without causing a problem with your oil pressure, just be aware of that drill size, basically a 1/32"-#72 drill, so use a drill press and take your time those bits are easy to break
there's at least a few hours of very worth while , and quite useful reading in this thread and links that will prevent you wasting time and money, keep in mind the sub links contain a huge wealth of additional info you'll need
what seems to be over-looked in many engine builds is simply the fact you'll almost always DEEPLY regret jumping into the engine build with both feet and waving your check book as you sink ever deeper into piles of parts receipts and machine shop bills, rather than stepping back with a legal pad, and a calculator and listing in minute detail exactly what you want to accomplish, and taking the time and effort too list and check out in detail what each machine shop procedure costs, why its required and how much each components costs, what your options are and how each component will add too or benefit the completed combo (or in some cases cause you time and grief)
stepping back and thinking things through in detail and listing the cost and potential problems and finding the solutions BEFORE you dive into the process may be a lot less fun, but in the long term its sure to cost less and result in a far better finished project!
you might be amazed at what a couple hours research into the subject will do to help you build a much more durable engine, and actually reading thru links and sub-links and asking questions helps a great deal
BTW if you soak a new timing chain and gears in a pan , covering them in a mix of synthetic oil and moly assembly lube and heat them to about 220 degrees to allow the oil to penetrate into the metals pores it will tend to pre-lubricate the chain and gears more effectively than just installing them dry, and from what Ive seen they last slightly longer, a cheap tin pan can be used, and if you don't have an IR temp gun(you really should get one) adding a 1/4 teaspoon of water to the oil and watching it boil off as an indicator that the oils up to temp is a good idea, as you don,t want to over heat the oil or smoke up the kitchen
Ive always found the best results from keeping the low rpm pressure , in the 15psi-20psi at hot idle and no more than 65psi at high rpms,is really useful, the volume required depends on the way the engines clearances and oil systems designed or modified , volume/viscosity/clearances in the approximately stock range works fine in most .
I like high volume pumps but I certainly don't use them IF the engines nearly stock as the standard Z28 SBC pump works fine
"the standard volume pump gears are about 1.2" long the high volume pump gears are about 1.5 inches long (depends on manufacturer)
here's the descriptions right from chevy
I should obviously point out that one very basic but critical addition to any performance engine build would be to swap to a 7-8 quart capacity, baffled oil pan, with a windage tray, the greatly improved oil control and capacity could and usually does aid considerably in increased bearing, and valve train component life span!
Moroso 21812: Drag/Road Race Oil Pan C3 & C4 Corvette, Kit Cars - JEGS
Get the Best Performance with Moroso Drag/Road Race Oil Pan C3 & C4 Corvette, Kit Cars 21812 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!
www.jegs.com
CP50LTRB
Steel wet sump oil pan with a louvered windage tray and one large trapdoor for Small Block Chevrolet years 1986-2003 with the one piece rear main seal
https://garage.grumpysperformance.c...igh-volume-vs-standard-chevy-oil-pumps.15902/
How much free play is good for the drive shaft from the distributor to the oil pump??
How much free play is good for the drive shaft from the distributor to the oil pump??
garage.grumpysperformance.com
12555884
SBC Oil Pump, High Pressure Z28/LT1. Production high-pressure oil pump with 1.20" gears.
Will produce 60-70 psi oil pressure. Does not include screen. The pickup tube dia. is 5/8" for this pump.
62.17
the true high volume pumps like this below are not necessary UNTILL you've done extensive mods that require the extra oil flow volume
14044872
SBC Oil Pump, High-Volume. This high-volume pump has1.50" long gears.It has approximately 25% more capacity than a production pump at standard pressure. Does not include screen."
https://www.chevydiy.com/1955-1996-chevy-small-block-performance-guide-oiling-system-manual-part-9/
BTW if your building a big block chevy engine, Big blocks have a tendency to trap air in the front of the oil passages feeding the lifters, which causes a rocker tap on start up. Because of this, there is a recessed Allen head oil galley plug behind the timing gear on the drivers side that has a hole drilled into it. This hole bleeds off air trapped in the front of the oil galley, and it also lubricates the back of the timing gear. This was a stock-from-the-factory modification to the oil galley, on some bbc engines.
removal of the drilled oil passage plug with a solid galley plug (a BAD idea) or if a piece of trash or silicone in the oil passage that managed to block this galley plug, will usually result in lifter noise and lack of oil flow for a few minutes that can cause wear on the cam and lifters. its suggested one of the plugs get drilled ,drill the lifter gallery plug with a #72-1/32" drill to prevent this
thoughts on cooling
sometimes things "stick" to the threads and just rip out and totally wreck the threads. Even when you use an Anti-Seize ? How about using an anti-seize and thread cleaner tap, run that thru there a several times before installing the anode. Here is a quick option...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
building a custom wet sump oil pan
The question comes up rather frequently when I suggest buying or modifying oil pans as to "WHY BOTHER?" well its simply the fact that most stock oil pans were designed simply to be the cheapest to manufacture component that would function on an engine that would rarely be spinning over 3500rpm...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
http://freezeplugfactory.com/expansion-plug-size-chart/
Brass Cup Plugs
PART NOSIZEMILLIMETERPART NOSIZEMILLIMETER
1025/16 7.939
146
1 1/2
38.1
103 3/8 9.525 147 1 9/16 39.69
NOTICE THESE TWO SIZES ABOVE FIT MANY DIP STICK HOLES
be sure not to insert oil passage plugs into oil gallery passages too deeply
High Volume oil pumps, Bearing clearance and oil pressure.
We talk about Hv oil pumps,oil pressure and fluid dynamics Powellmachineinc.com If you want to support us financially https://cash.app/$PowellMachine
www.youtube.com
keep in mind that as oil temps increase the oil viscosity tends to decrease, thus cold oil, at lets say 70F might cause the oil pressure gauge to read 50 psi at idle but the pressure reading slowly goes down to 25 psi once the oils reached lets say 210F, this is normal and expected
watch this video
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-10990/?rtype=4
read these links, or miss a large percentage of the useful info
http://www.milodon.com/oil-system/oil-pumps.asp
http://www.chevydiy.com/oil-lubrication-systems-guide-big-block-chevy-engines/
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... ngine.aspx
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... ology.aspx
Cam gear or distributor gear wear is usually NOT caused by the high volume pump itself, but by insufficient internal engine running clearances.
THE CAM MANUFACTURER WILL BE ONLY TOO GLAD TO SELL THE CORRECT MATCHING DISTRIBUTOR GEAR TOO YOU
and like a lifter on a cam lobe it is usually going to last longer if both the cam and distributor gear are new, coated with moly assembly grease and allowed to lap in and mate surfaces , rather than use used worn distributor gears on new cams
Chevy V-8's, small block, big block, and 90? V-6 engines, all use splash lubrication to oil the distributor gear. Although higher RPM operation provides sufficient lubrication to prevent wear, low speed use can be a problem. The situation can become critical if a high volume oil pump is used. The high volume oil pump was developed for engines where bearing clearances were increased over stock. These work fine in racing engine applications, where extra clearance is provided in the short-block.
However, when a high volume oil pump is used in an engine with stock internal clearances, the increased volume of oil can't flow through the engine fast enough to relieve the back pressure created. This places an increased load on the distributor gear, and leads to accelerated wear.
Once the gear on either an 8620 steel cam or a cast iron cam is worn excessively, the cam itself must be scrapped! There is no repair for this problem, and the only option is to buy a new cam. To eliminate this annoying and expensive problem, we offer a simple, do-it-yourself way to help oil the distributor gear and reduce this accelerated wear in Chevy V-8 and 90? V-6 engines.
On these engines, the lower portion of the distributor housing drops through the oil gallery that supplies oil to the lifters on the passenger side of the engine. Two rings at the bottom of the distributor housing seal the top and bottom of this galley. Oil flows around the distributor, between the two rings.
Solving distributor gear wear is as simple as filing or machining a .030" groove in the bottom ring of the distributor housing. A three cornered file can also be used.
The distributor housing should be grooved in any engine operated for extended periods at low engine RPM. With the distributor installed in the engine - ready to run - the groove should face TOWARDS THE CAMSHAFT. This will provide a reasonable flow of oil to lubricate and cool the distributor gear and cam gear as they operate.
Remember to keep the groove facing the camshaft, and be sure to use the correct Crane high silicon, copper alloy distributor gear for best results.
Its smart to file a small groove in the lower distributor so oil spray from the oil passage constantly lubricates the distributor gear to cam gar contact point
you might find reading these threads above interesting
a very effective custom built windage tray can be fabricated for most oil pans from perforated steel, if you have minimal metal working and measuring skills
ADDING A WELL DESIGNED WINDAGE SCREEN SPEEDS OIL RETURN SPEEDS . AND EFFICIENCY TO THE ENGINE SUMP
Its smart to file a small groove in the lower distributor , or the block so oil spray from the oil passage constantly lubricates the distributor gear to cam gar contact point
(2)groove the lower 1/3rd of the lifter bores with a comp cams lifter bore tool
(3)braze the oil pump pickup so its locked at 1/2" off the pan floor after careful measurements are taken
(4)groove the lower block where the distributor lower band seats in line with the cam gear to provide extra oil to that gear
(5)use a windage screen mounted 1/8" from the outer arc of the rotating assembly
(6)us a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan, and a high flow oil cooler with a separate electrical fan sure helps in some applications
(7) after, clearance checks carefully install , 6 magnets, two in the rear of each cylinder head,(one per head) two near the lifter gallery oil drain back holes and in the 4 corners of the oil pan sump
(8) if using a flat tappet solid lifter cam use the crower PREMIUM lifters with the hardened/polished bases and .020 EDM oil spray hole in the base, and a hardened PREMIUM cam core
(9) If you require a high volume oil pump use a 5 bolt big block design, with a 3/4" pick-up as they tend to run smoother
(10) if you've got the clearance use the longer high capacity oil filters
[/size][/color]
yes you can groove the lifter bore walls to provide greater oil flow to the cam lobes and lifter base contact area,but read the instructions ! the tool comes with instructions, but keep in mind that you want to do is just increase oil flow rates not destroy a block, the grooves you cut are barely noticeable, only on the lower 1/3rd of the lifter bore and only about 5 -10 thousands deep, and just provide a bit more oil flow to the cam lobes
I lent that tool out to one friend that cut grooves far too deep effectively ruining a block
you can also just sand a flat spot on the lower 1/3rd of the lifter body with 600 grit sand paper on a sheet of glass this will also increase oil flow but remember the lifter spins in the bore so the groove supplies a steady stream of oil the flat spot throws a rapidly pulse flow
or if your into serious mods
you might find these threads and sub linked info useful
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... pumps.aspx
lifters with oil feed grooves
I suppose you could do these oil feed mods and groove the lower lifter bores and distributor gear oil feed groove, while you used a strong vacuum cleaner and magnets to limit the metallic debris ,on a partially assembled engine, but I've never tried it, I do the minor machine work to a clean bare block even before the cam bearings are installed and carefully clean it, and all the oil passages with a rifle bore brush high pressure air and solvents, several times before installing the cam bearings, I generally prefer to start with the block on an engine stand that I can rotate easily for full access.
as a general tip, marking the distributor shaft so the oil sprays on the cam gear/distributor gear mesh/contact area helps,
durability, if its correctly located and its not too large,
but that depends to some extent to be helpful on getting the oil flow groove correctly indexed,
and that might be screwed up a bit if its not placed correctly , now obviously if the engines in the car and assembled its not a good idea to start doing this,,
it helps during the initial engine assembly if you put some thought into the build before you get too far into the build,
if you have the bare block at some point to groove the area in the block where the distributor seats,
just a bit with a very small second groove as the picture indicate,
as that ill always be in the correct location and does not depend on the distributors position in the block.
don't get carried away a groove about .008 x.008 (eight thousand's deep x eight thousand's wide in the correct location,) is all that's necessary
keep in mind the distributor base forms one wall of the lifter gallery oil passage
so grooving the lower oil band directly above the point where the gears start to mesh helps spray extra oil on the distributor/cam gears contact area, and yes that changes with distributor position so most guys cut a small fine groove in both the lower block wall and the distributor lower section above that location to assure a constant oil mist spray into the meshing gears
[/color]
The distributor mount hole through the block is at an angle, and the pad where it locks down is cast and machined at a slight angle, after all, the cam shaft center line is DEAD CENTER,in the block and the distributor gear is riding ,with its gear teeth meshed to the side of it. The dist fits fairly tight to the block, since it completes the oil passage in the block to the pass side lifters,but that means the distributor leans just a bit from true vertical , so if you do notice that, its normal, and correct.
THESE LINKS ARE WORTH READING THRU
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/baffle.htm
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
http://prestoliteweb.com/Portals/0/down ... 61_all.pdf
one more potential possible source of metallic debris that could provide the cause of the cylinder bore damage
now if your building an engine you GOING TO DO FREQUENT OIL CHANGES ON AND NEVER LET SLUDGE BUILD UP...you can probably limit that potential valve train shrapnel screens and magnets that trap small destructive crud
shrapnel screens epoxied into the block to prevent valve train failure shrapnel from inducing bearing failure if crap gets sucked into the oil pump is a good idea IF you do frequent oil changes so the screens won,t get sledged up
THE SCREEN ABOVE IS CLOSE TO BEING IDEAL
THE SCREEN ABOVE IS TOO SMALL TO BE IDEAL
I generally use, and advise the use of stainless 6 or 8 mesh screens.
theres lots of options that will work just fine, just remember to keep the oil changed regularly or theres some potential for sludge to clog ANY size shrapnel screens
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/store/main.html
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 6T0350W36T
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 8S0280W36T
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-25026?seid=srese1&gclid=COOf2IODscgCFZKAaQodHWoF1Q
IVE typically used these magnets in an engine, one in the rear oil drain on each cylinder head, one near each lifter gallery drain and 4 in the oil pan sump
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1-2x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608f-temperature/
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_27&products_id=251 (prefered)
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH (acceptable)
use these, magnets linked above, in the lifter gallery and oil drain areas in the cylinder heads, and if you want too, the corners of the oil pan, the normal Neodymium magnets loose strength when subjected to high heat the ones listed ,especially the cobalt magnets are designed to operate under high heat conditions, you certainly don,t want metallic crap that was formally functional Neodymium magnets, that have lost the magnetism loose in the engine, you don,t need a great deal of pull strength, what you need is a way to trap and hold micro fine metallic crud from wear issues and preventing, that crap from getting embedded in bearings or causing wear in moving valve train components
THIS is a good example of what happens to bearings if the oil passages are allowed to push small metallic debris, from wear like rockers,valve tips,cam and lifter wear thru the engine, use of a few small magnets, and shrapnel screens helps reduce or eliminate this
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH
http://freezeplugfactory.com/expansion-plug-size-chart/
Brass Cup Plugs
PART NOSIZEMILLIMETERPART NOSIZEMILLIMETER
1025/16 7.939
146
1 1/2
38.1
103 3/8 9.525 147 1 9/16 39.69
NOTICE THESE TWO SIZES ABOVE FIT MANY DIP STICK HOLES
a high volume oil pump is generally only required if you've done extensive engine mods requiring increased oil flow rates, and ITS use requires a 6-8 qt baffled oil pan and a windage screen to operate correctly, pressure is a measure or resistance to flow, if you've done the mods to increase the flow rates like larger bearing clearances and lifter bore mods then a high volume pump makes sense and the load rates to run it drop significantly, youll generally want to run bearing clearances on the loose side of factory specs with a high volume oil pump and run an oil viscosity that allows you to maintain a minimum of 15psi and a maximum of about 25 psi of oil pressure once the oil temp reaches about 200F at idle rpms
your NOT required to used mobile one oil, most of the name brand oils with the manufacturer suggested viscosity range and API rating
will work reasonably well and not void your warranty
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1334
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2102&hilit=+synthetic
THESE THREADS, and SUB LINKS HOLD MUCH MORE INFO
BTW if you have a sudden drop in oil pressure on any engine with no other symptoms, you might want to replace the oil filter and check oil levels before you panic as its not uncommon for some brands of oil filters to fail internally
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html
http://www.circletrack.com/nls/76818/index.html
http://www.mellingengine.com/TechnicalS ... etins.aspx
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php ... ad&A_id=64
obviously these won,t fit all chevy applications but if you have the room for the longer, spin on filters
The "longer high capacity oil filter" Purolator is L40084.
"longer high capacity oil filter" N.A.P.A: # 1794
"longer high capacity oil filter" ACDelco: PF932
you gentlemen, might want to keep in mind ALL oils are designed to carry heat, from the bearings and combustion process generated crud to the filter , and all oil slowly gets filled with micro crud,soot, acids and breaks down from heat and moisture contamination,over time, oil is cheap compared to major engine failures from lubricated parts failure. and while the newer synthetics are far better, than the older oils, its been my experience that keeping any synthetic oil over about 15,000-18,000 miles between changes even with frequent filter changes is probably a bad idea.
obviously the operational conditions, heat levels and stress levels should be taken into consideration.
now you certainly don,t need to change oil every 3500 miles like has in the past been suggested with the older generation oils. but changing oil every 7,000-8,000 miles certainly won,t be hurting much, and if you want to use the better oils over about 15,000-18,000 miles between changes even with frequent filter changes, thats certainly not likely to cause major issues and changing oil filters every 3500,-4000 mile can,t hurt either
radias and smooth the oil pump gallery feed
notice the welded tabs bracing the oil pump pick-up and that big block pumps have 5 cover screws unlike the small block pump with its 4 screw cover
"How to Hot Rod Big Block Chevrolets" and it is recommended to "add groves to your stock pump to get full load-balancing benefits for both the drive and idler gears" (page 113)
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/res ... ancing.htm
MORE USEFUL INFO
yes the oil flows around the mounting stud,from oil pump to main cap to reach the engine oil passages, thru the oil filter
failure to use the correct oil pump,mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems
ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING AND LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH ROTATION
be sure to verify the oil pump drive shaft won,t binds and has proper clearance
Ive done that mod on several of my BBC oil pumps based on what Id read in that exact book, back in the 1970s, figuring the guys who wrote it knew more than I did, when it first was published, and found it did tend to make the oil pressure a bit more consistent, but that could be because it will cause some minor oil pressure flow leaking back under the spinning gears. it could also be that its no longer a required mod, why?
because some oil pumps already come that way, if you look inside
some moroso pumps come pre machined that way
HERES SOME MODS RECOMMENDED TO THE OIL PUMP
moroso, summit racing etc. sells plug kits
the melling 10990 pump is generally a good choice on a high performance sbc
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-10990/
that .032--.039 hole in the pass side oil passage plug will be Just fine !
the object off drilling the tiny hole for those that don,t know is two fold, first it prevent trapped air in the oil passage from slowing oil reaching the lifters as trapped air is bled off rapidly, secondly it provides a constant flow of extra lube flowing to the chain cam drive even at low rpms
a small hole .032--.039 intersecting the oil feed passage to provide pressurized oil to the rear of the timing gear won,t hurt, and tends to reduce block wear
LOOK CLOSELY THE LEFT LIFTER GALLERY PLUGS DRILLED TO SPRAY OIL
http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piece-t ... 34627.html
you can get a cheap but semi-functional brill bit selection here, and it certainly helps to have a caliper handy
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dia ... 66541.html
drill at least the left oil passage plug with a .025-.031 drill to supply the cam gears with extra oil flow, on a race engine with a high voluum oil pump, and a 7-9 quart oil pan, its a good idea to drill both the center and left plugs as it speeds oil flow reaching the lifters and prevents air being compressed in the passages slowing oil reaching the lifter and cam lobes.
but the main benefit is a constant bath of oil flowing between the rear of the timing sets cam gear and the block, which tends to protect the block surface, and provide extra lube to the timing set.
having a REV-KIT that retains the lifters in their bores, to maintain oil pressure, even if the rocker comes loose or push rods breaks is a good idea
any time you go to install new cam bearings in an engine you first take detailed notes and a few pictures of the OLD cam bearing in the block under good lighting to note the location of the oil feed holes and and grooves, then as they are removed you number them each as its removed and measure them as on many engine they are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE between all main cap locations
25050 Lifter Valley Oil Baffle, Small Block Chevy, including 18° heads Only $33.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/25050/10002/-1
* Increases horsepower by shielding bottom of intake manifold from hot oil
* Keeps surplus oil out of valve covers by eliminating oil splash
* Maintains oil pressure during pushrod or rocker arm failure by keeping lifters in their bores (except with roller cam)
* Due to slight variation in blocks, the baffle may have to be trimmed .060 - .100" before it will "snap" into place
* Cannot be used with roller lifters
keep in mind the sbc oil pump has 7 tooth gears and the big block pumps have 12 teeth making the oil flow smoother and less pulsed, plus having larger gears they tend to supply more oil at lower rpms
look closely and youll see the big block oil pump has a 5 bolt lower cover and the oil pump pick-up with its 3/4" feed seats into the main pump casting while the small block oil pump has a 4 bolt cover and the sbc oil pump pick-up with its 5/8" feed seats into the pumps cover plate
those holes in the back end of the last cam bearing journal on the cam core are there to prevent oil pressure build up behind the cam which could cause the expansion plug in the rear of the block to blow out
you may want to think about installing an accumulator, its a device thats easily added that holds a couple quarts of oil under pressure that insures positive oil pressure
http://www.moroso.com/articles/articledisplay2.asp?article=AboutAccumulator.html&catcode=13600
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1280&p=6082&
hilit=accumulator#p6082
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=5423&p=16167#p16167
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-friction-and-pumping-losses.8966/#post-31978
,its USUALLY not really about the amount of oil as much as controlling the rapid return of oil to the sump so its constantly covering the oil pump pick-up.
just some info, you might need,
depending on the oil pump used, rpms and clearances a chevy V8 will generally push some where between 2 and 6 gallons a minute thru the oil passages, your average oil pan sump holds at most 3 quarts ,while the engines running, and theres generally about 2 or a bit more quarts in the upper engine, (lifter gallery, heads)while the engines running, so when you induce high inertial loads is common for the oil pump pick up to become uncovered even in a baffled oil pan for a few seconds as that 2-3 quarts in the sump slams forward and back in the sump, because remember , lets say your engines only pumping 3 gallons a minute, and theres got to be at least 2 quarts in the sump to keep the oil pump pick-up covered under high inertial loads, its only going to take a few seconds at most under those conditions to suck air into the oil pump. obviously having a baffled 7-8 quart oil pan has advantages under those conditions as theres a good deal larger (SAFETY MARGIN) in the amount of oil present over the oil pump pick-up is you use the higher capacity BAFFLED oil pan with its better oil control and larger sump capacity,, windage screen combo
in some applications adding an oil accumulators a good idea
for the BBC guys
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/show ... apter=7587
http://www.carbideselect.com/burshpescuts.php
DART BLOCKS HAVE A DIFFERENT OIL ROUTE
just keep in mind that you'll need to very carefully blend and smooth and carefully clean,the edges of the beveled area where the oil port feeds the bearing surface with some 600 grit sand paper so the oil flows well and theres no edges to cause bearing wear issues or crud left from the process that would get embedded in the bearings.
watch this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... dEFGJqpCMY
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