Peanut Port Info Please?

V

Vettepilot

Member
Hey guys,

I have a 396 (402) short block here with a largish Crower cam and high compression forged pistons. The cam is around 550 lift I believe.

I want to throw a set of Mark lV Peanut Port heads on it for now. I have never used Peanut Port heads before. What will need done??

Cut down the valve guides, buy rotator eliminator spacers and new exhaust spring retainers, and then appropriate new springs?

I've looked, and there's a lot written about using these heads, but no actual info on the specifics...

Thanks!!
Vettepilot
 
the year of the casting numbers for the block and heads would be rather helpful, as would clear pictures of the heads and block, and cam vendor and part number
well first issue is that you'll need head gaskets so Id need to know the block year and casting number and cylinder head year and casting numbers ideally youll want to get the correct quench distance,
just to be sure there's zero issues, if you have domed pistons you'll need to check for valve to piston clearance issues , and spark plug to piston dome issues in some cases.
next the peanut port heads , depending on the year , frequently did not come with adjustable rocker arm studs, and yes have a local machine shop install the adjustable rocker arm studs and push rod guide plate's if your year heads require them.
yes have the local machine shop check the valve spring installed height, valve spring clearances and valve spring load rates.
you did not mention if the cams a hydraulic roller or flat tappet hydraulic, the lifters , guide plates, and push rods and rockers will all be only compatible if they match the application, (again have a local machine shop verify your using the correct matching parts, and the correct roller rockers would be a helpful upgrade.)
I've had good results with a single plane intake, but you did not state your going EFI or carb?

related threads
grumpyvette

Thread 'valve train clearances and problems'

you might want to read thru these links and sub links it will help you avoid costly mistakes

valve_failure.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66830/overview/
pro-66830_cp.jpg

liftc1f.jpg
...

Grumpy

Post in thread 'Peanut port 500 hp build'


FITech Fuel Injection 30064: 30064 Go EFI 2x4 1200 HP Power Adder Throttle Body System Basic Kit - JEGS

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Go EFI 2x4 Power Adder Throttle Body System, 1200 HP, Matte Black Finish
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theres several sources, AND manufacturers, for both direct port and dual throttle body efi systems

...

grumpyvette

Thread 'converting a big block chevy gen V- VI to adjustable rockers'

If you intend to use any other cam than the stock hydraulic cam that came in a MARK V or MARK VI (gen 5 or gen 6 BIG BLOCK CHEVY) you'll most likely want to install one with more lift or duration to increase performance, that means you'll most likely need to upgrade the valve train to an adjustable valve train,IN most cases the use of the conversion studs with the 3/8" 16 lower threads and 7/16" 20 thread uppers and the older mark IV rockers is the best way to convert the valve train on a limited budget, aftermarket stamped steel roller tip rockers, with grooved pivot balls for...

grumpyvette

Thread 'tips on building a peanut port big block combo'

peanutport.jpg

PEANUT PORT HEADS WITH RECTANGLE PORT GASKET ABOVE
346236 1975-87 454 Open 113cc .PEANUT

SLIGHTLY LARGER, COMMON EARLY OVAL PORT HEADS WITH RECTANGLE PORT GASKET BELOW
ovalrecgask.jpg


peanutportchambers.jpg

polishing and smoothing these combustion chambers,surfaces, removing the sharp ridges etc, has shown noticeable benefits in both reduction in a tendency to detonate, and a bit better power and since its not all...

Grumpy

Post in thread 'some basic bbc math, to get you thinking about your potential dream bbc combos.'

whats the most effective compression ratio for a gas engine
I was recently asked why I don.t build a new 496 BBC like I posted about having built back in the very early 1970s,
well theres two huge issues, the first one everyone deals with in most car projects,
its a lack of CASH flow but I have learned a great deal in the intervening decades.
, well the major REMAINING issue, OTHER THAN THE VASTLY INCREASED COST OF PARTS,
is the availability of high octane fuel and avoiding detonation issues.
the days of easy access too $.34 cents a gallon SUNOCO 260 are unfortunately now...

Grumpy

Post in thread 'links to casting numbers and info'


vin/casting # info

I need help decoding my motor. casting number (3932386) from left rear of motor. (19J119739) and (V0920FC) from the right front of motor. From the casting number I believe its a 1969 302,327 or 350. Valve covers are no help if its a 327. 3932386....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro...
garage.grumpysperformance.com


Chevy Camaro Big Block Engine Suffix Codes

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...

grumpyvette

Thread 'big block head comparison'

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html
Cylinder Pressure Note: youll generally want to try hard to maximize the useable compression as the higher the compression before you get into detonation the more efficiently the fuel can be burnt and the more torque the engine can produce, if limited to pump high test 92-93 octane fuel,165 psi # of cylinder pressure is about the best cylinder pressure for Iron heads with 92-93 octane, using pure un-ethanol laced fuel, gasoline. while the faster heat transfer rate of aluminum cylinder heads will usually allow 190psi...

Grumpy

Post in thread 'BIG BLOCK CHEVY HEADS, PICTURES/INFO'

i FOUND THIS INFO POSTED AND THOUGHT SOME OF YOU MIGHT BENEFIT FROM POSTING THE INFO



Edelbrock/Musi Victor 24° CNC Ported Rectangle Port
2.35 intake valve the throat was at 88% of the valve
Good Port
.100 71 cfm
.200 150 cfm
.300 221 cfm
.400 282 cfm
.500 337 cfm
.600 390 cfm
.700 418 cfm
.800 420 cfm
.900 423 cfm
1.00 429 cfm

I thought the head would flow a bit more. so I went after the same port like a mad man :lol:

Good Port full ported with same 50* valve Job opened throat to 90%
.100 72 cfm...

Grumpy

Post in thread 'unshrouding valves, and polishing combustion chambers'

here's a rather interesting article about the potential performance upgrades a stock set of OVAL PORT CAST IRON O.E.M BBC heads can produce with careful work.
but before you get the idea that spending a great deal of time cash and effort on porting stock cylinder heads is a great option, Id have to point out that theres dozens of aftermarket aluminum performance cylinder heads available with bigger valves, better port designs and far better air flow potential than any port work on the stock cast iron heads could ever provide...

Grumpy

Post in thread 'big block head comparison'

P
Michael Ray
Polishing a Set of Sneakers
Click to expand...

...
Click to expand...
 
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Thanks guys. I get all the details. Been building hot rod engines for 55 years. I was just resting a trashed back in bed, and was thinking of the various parts I've got lying around, and what all engines I could throw together to get rid of as running engines instead of shelves of parts. The peanut port heads are some a customer left when I built an engine for him. I've never used them, so didn't know where they stand on valve heights rotators, etc. I do a lot of my own machine work. I just want to put together a serviceable engine in this case, not a record holder. I do know the clearances to check and have the tools...

Vettepilot
 
please post a few pictures and let us know the progress as the project advances

 
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Ok, reading thru some stuff. Crap, I forgot about the non-adjustable rocker silliness. One more thing to tend to when I've got these on the mill table to knock the guides down. Without mocking up and seeing exactly what is required, what's a good number to cut the guides down?

So, generally, are the valve spring pockets the same except for needing extra shims in the exhaust pockets to allow for removing the rotators?

Thanks guys!

Vettepilot
 
Well, I partially dug those heads out, and they have adjustable rocker studs and guide plates, so that's cool. I assume they have rotators only on the exhaust. We'll see... As I recall, that 454 came out of a 1975 1 ton truck.

Anyone know how far is common to cut the guides down for clearance?

Vettepilot
 
someotherguy

Thread 'Big block pushrod guide plates'

Posted on Chevytalk as well...

OK...more on the 1996 Vortec 7.4 (GEN VI) - stock setup is 5/16" pushrods with nonadjustable rockers, uses guide plates.

Got a Comp Cams kit that is supposed to be a drop-in replacement to convert to adjustable. Roller tip rockers, studs, pushrods, etc.

The Comp pushrods are 3/8". OK, that's great - love the thicker pushrods. But I don't have guideplates for them, and need to button this truck back up TONIGHT.

Ideas? Safe to "clearance" the guide plates a little so the 3/8" pushrods fit? There seems to be enough meat on the plates, but I'm far from an...

grumpyvette

Thread 'valve train clearances and problems'

you might want to read thru these links and sub links it will help you avoid costly mistakes

valve_failure.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66830/overview/
pro-66830_cp.jpg

liftc1f.jpg
...

grumpyvette

Thread 'unshrouding valves, and polishing combustion chambers'

some excellent info well worth reading thru
head gaskets are rarely completely round, nore are combustion chambers
you,ll want to place a head gasket you,ll use on the heads and mark the area inside the opening,
as the only areas you can change,
notice that the combustion chamber is not an exact match or its end are it's perfectly round match to the head gasket,on many engines,
(notice the gasket fire ring is NOT a perfect circle like many people assume)
ideally you'll want to unshroud the valves while opening & smoothing the surface up ,on the...

grumpyvette

Thread 'sellecting valve springs, and setting up the valve train'

How do you determine the spring pressure needed to keep the valves under control for a given lift, duration, and max rpm.
It might take you several hours to read thru all the links and sub links but its time very well spent as it could save your engine from destruction and save you thousands of dollars
ALWAYS ask detailed questions as to the best , and most durable parts combination they have available , for your application, from your cam suppliers tech department.
youll want some tools, naturally the amount of info you need and how precisely youll want...

grumpyvette

Thread 'cam wear,articles you need to read'

before, you start reading through the thread and links below,
Ill point out that I've done the forensics on quite a few failed cams over the years,
that guys have brought to my shop and Id say about

60% of the failed cam lobe & lifter problems were traced to a failure to check clearances or correct valve train geometry issues , like coil bind, rocker to rocker stud, or rocker to adjustment nut clearance, retainer to valve seal, clearances or rocker geometry, use of the wrong spring load rates for the application ,or failure to check...

Grumpy

Thread 'Bbc Related & Links And Useful Info'

a few useful links,
and sub links
videos, and tips
to look over
yeah, increased displacement helps and building a killer BBC old school,
for your car can be both cost effective and produce impressive results
some of the most effective, cost per hp and efficient combo's ,
will be the 496 displacement and if you have access to the correct block,
the larger bore 540 BBC combos.
nothings cheap to build but a very impressive and durable,
over the longer term, power plant can be built.
do the required research, and stick to a known well proven well documented...

first rule in engine building, YOUR ALWAYS LEARNING, KNOWLEDGE IS NEVER CHEAP! YOU WILL ALWAYS REQUIRE A FEW MORE EXPENSIVE TOOLS, BUT IT'S THE TIME AND EFFORT SPENT IN GAINING THE KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE THAT'S THE BIGGEST EXPENSE IN THE LONG TERM... THE ONLY THING MORE EXPENSIVE IS BEING DUMB AND DOING IT WRONG AND NEEDING TO START OVER WITH NEW PARTS.
if your not sure buy a few related books and do research and look up specific RELATED USEFUL INFO, FROM A KNOWN KNOWLEDGEABLE SOURCE, IF YOUR STILL NOT 100% SURE, PAY A MACHINE SHOP AND ASK QUESTIONS, IT WILL COST YOU SOME MONEY, BUT IT'S FAR BETTER THAN IRREVERSIBLY DAMAGING THE PARTS THROUGH LACK OF KNOWLEDGE.
YES IT MAY REQUIRE EXPENSIVE TOOLS YOU MAY NOT YET OWN.
YOU'LL BE FAR BETTER OFF PAYING A LOCAL MACHINIST TO DO THE WORK, OR FOR SLIPPING THE MACHINIST $50-&100 TO SIT DOWN AND CAREFULLY EXPLAIN WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE.. HOW ITS DONE!, WHY ITS DONE THAT WAY? THAN TO SCREW UP THE REQUIRED MACHINE WORK.
do yourself a favor.. buy this book, its full of useful info you can use
Reher-Morrison Championship Engine Assembly [Robert Colesworthy] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Reher-Morrison Championship Engine Assembly
www.amazon.com
51Dfu8o7JtL._SY448_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg
 
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I don't happen to have that one, but I have a ton of books, all dog eared and well read. I find Vizard's interesting, Smokey Yunick's worth a chuckle sometimes, etc., etc. I've got dial indicators, mics, a fortune in tools. I have built more dam engines for motorcycles, cars, boats, and airplanes than I can count, the first one being in 1969. I have two hot VW stroker engines and two good BBC engines to be built in the que right now, oh, two motorcycle engines too! The only ones that blew up had a good reason, my right foot. I don't recall a single customer returning a faulty engine, but a lot of them bragged about the races they won with my engines.

I did a lot of valve jobs back in the 70's, before that equipment was lost in a fire. Since then, yes, most of my head work was done by a machine shop, including all my hot rod/race car head work. (Well, I do my own porting, then leave the machining to them nowadays.)

So I have lots of experience and a good bit of knowledge though I hope to learn new things every day, lots of reference material, lots of tools. What I don't have is an answer to a simple question---> how far down are valve guides commonly needed to be cut on this particular head. Put a more common way--> how much lift will they support stock?

Forget it. I'll drag the heads out, disassemble, set up a dial indicator, open the valve to my lift value with retainer installed, allow room for my valve seal and a bit more "for grandma"...

AND FIGURE IT OUT MYSELF!!

Forgive me for just being curious about the answer lying here in bed nursing my back.

And if you did not know the answer, just saying so would have been easier than just snowing me with a ton of videos and reference links, and less insulting. And if I really was the type to say "hold my beer while I grab my side grinder and knock these valve guides down exactly how much the forum said.", and that amount happened to be wrong, do you really think it would not have been caught on the first test assembly/mock up???

JEEZ...

Vettepilot
 
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I thought I answered rather clearly,its posted several places in the links provided.
it was never my intention to upset anyone, but when I post answers I understand it may be read by many people over many years
thats why I posted the advice for anyone reading in the following years.
if your not sure, how or why your doing some mod on your heads, have a local machine shop do the job

When cutting down valve guides in Big Block Chevy heads for pushrod guide clearance,
you typically want to remove approximately 0.020" to 0.030" of material.
Here's a more detailed explanation:
  • Purpose:
    Cutting down the valve guides allows for the use of shorter pushrods, which can improve valve train stability and reduce the potential for pushrod bind, especially with high-lift cams.

  • Amount to Cut:
    You'll typically want to remove a small amount of material, usually in the range of 0.020" to 0.030".
    • Measure: Measure the length of the pushrod required for your application with the valve train assembled.

    • Calculate: Subtract the desired clearance from the pushrod length to determine how much to cut from the guide.

    • Test Fit: After cutting, reassemble the valve train and check for proper pushrod clearance and alignment.

Rocker2mid-lift2.jpg
 
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Guide?? Guide plate? Valve guide??

Serious confusion here apparently.

I call the plates that bolt under the rocker studs and guide the pushrods---> "Pushrod Guide Plates", as does everyone I know.

I call the guides that the valves literally ride in---> "Valve Guides".

I am NOT asking anything at all about the "Guide Plates".

I AM asking how much the "Valve Guides" need cut down for oil seal clearance with high lift cams and this type head.

Vettepilot
 
ok sorry for the miss understanding :facepalm:
I apologize that was certainly not intentional
R

Post in thread 'Installing valve seals'

Loves302Chevy said:
Do not attempt to use both seals and o-rings. O-rings go in the trash.
Tip: use an old spark plug wire instead of rope. Call Alex. He will tell you exactly what you need.

VALVE SEALS 11/32" - Alex's Parts Sales

alexsparts.com alexsparts.com

CHEVY VORTEC, V6 4.3 - Alex's Parts Sales

alexsparts.com alexsparts.com
alexsparts.com

11/32" X .552" Viton Valve Seals, Fixed Body, SB Chevy 5.7 Iron Vortec, VSS-287, set of sixteen

11/32" X .552" Viton Valve Seals, Fixed Body, SB Chevy 5.7 Iron Vortec, VSS-287
alexsparts.com alexsparts.com
alexsparts.com

11/32" X .548" Valve Seals Fixed Body fits .544"-.550" Fits some aftermarket Vortec heads, sold in sets of eight seals, VSS-289

11/32" X .548" Valve Seals Fixed Body fits .544"-.550" Fits some aftermarket Vortec heads, sold in sets of eight seals, VSS-289
alexsparts.com alexsparts.com
...
Click to expand...
 
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Well, what you posted about valve seals does not answer my question either. As a side note, in the picture you posted last with the dial indicator setup, the pushrod is clearly too long...

Vettepilot

Edit: Ok, wait, when I actually clicked on the thread instead of the seal link, I found the info. FYI--> I really don't like having to watch videos, instead much prefer just quickly reading an answer, but thank you.
VP
 
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