Porting the Edelbrock Pro Flow XT 7137

ASE Doc said:
I like the Sonnax parts. The Smart Tech Input Housing for one.
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That's kinda of bit pricey, but cheaper in the long run. Did you buy it with the input shaft?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

ASE Doc said:
I also replaced all thrust washers with needle bearings
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Did that require any machine work?

Are there any parts available to change the 1st gear ratio and move it closer to 2nd gear. I ask since
busterrm of this website is thinking about the 700-R4.
 
I bought just the housing and installed a used factory input shaft. Sonnax wasnt yet offering the shaft when i bought the housing. If I go back into trans later, I may install their high strength shaft.

There is a set of ratio change planetary gears available that move 1st and 2nd closer together. A freind of mine, Dana at Probuilt Automatics says that with the right stall speed and torque curve, the factory ratios are just as fast.
 
Sonnax makes a set of planetary gears called Power Gears. The resulting ratios are 2.84 1st, 1.56 2nd. They are available through PATC for $627.
 
Grumpy blew out every single 700R4 in his own 1985 Corvette.
Trickflow Gen2 heads and 383.
In the archives here.
Yes he was drag racing.
 
Rollerizing the 700r4 simply requires using the right combination of parts. The Sonnax smart shell replaces the factory sun shell, is just as strong as the beast sun shell, and replaces two thrust washers with Torrington bearings. Behind the pump, there is a bearing available to replace the thrust washer. All together, the bearings allow you to reduce certain end play to .015 inches.

My parts list is posted in my 700r4 thread on Hotrodders.com I can copy it here for you in a different thread.
 
yes , please,copy and post that 700r4 upgrade/rebuild info, here ,
along with all the related rebuilding and upgrading ,
(pictures would be good)
and related links and info on tools info,
diagrams and part numbers and supplier links ,
you can,as it may help others1
I've repeatedly proven I can build engines that can shred most 700r4 and 10 bolt differentials with little effort,
It would be great to build a 700r4 that had more than a 3-4 month life expectancy,
behind one of those engines
 
Nice the smart tech wasn't in the budget when I built mine but did a zpack and smart shell. I used TCI for the valve body. If I wasn't wanting a tko600 I would put in a smart shell into the 700r4. They can built to survive for a while hard launches can bring out any weakness in a drive train. I did go through and do other mods also such as the sprag. New reverse drum and wider carbon band. The ratio just sucks for road racing.
 
I used every Trick part that was available in my 87 Corvette 700R4 When I rebuilt it in 2010.
$2k in hard parts.
If you look on The Facebook Transmission Groups they still like to blow up..
Its fine behind my near stock 350Tpi engine.
Its a wonderfull Trans behind a low power to medium power Small block Chevy.
Absolute max for years durability would be 450 hp.
550 Hp peak.
I used GM NOS 5-pinion planets made in the USA Ohio.
I bought the last set.
All others are made in Mexico or China you buy now.
 
Only 2 GM Autos capable of taking todays High Torque High Hp engines builds.
4L80E.
Turbo 400.
Turbo 400 even being Swapped into Hellcats.
The 8-speed Auto is $11,000 cash to replace.

Turbo 400 used in Street Outlaws 3000 Hp Cars.
Nothing else holds up.
Just a Lenco Lightning Rod Manual.
 
We're getting off topic here. Maybe a new thread would be good. I will post a parts list and the mods I did and why in the transmission drivetrain forum.

Grumpy, Maniacmechanic, what part of your 700r4s did you break?

I know the GM 5 pinion sets are all gone. Fortunately, TCI has stepped up and is producing a nice set now. About the same price as GM.

Dana at Probuilt is the best person to talk to about making one survive in a drag race application.

In my experience, the 3-4 clutch is the weak link. The Smart tech is one solid way to address this. It not only eliminates the weak snap ring retained backing plate, but also increases capacity. I run an 8 stack with thick frictions and steels. I can also run a 9 or even 10 stack in this housng.

Getting the 2-3 shift timing just right is critical. I started in my first build running the Superior 2nd servo. The apply release ratio is too hard to tune around. It tends to cause a 2-3 bind that kills the 3-4 clutch. I switched to the Sonnax 2nd and also run the Sonnax 4th servo. I installed a TH400 front servo return spring on the 2nd servo for a clean release every time.

Behind the 3-4 clutch, the next weakest point is probably the sun shell. The beast or the smart shell both cure this.

I have a modified Transgo 2-3 kit in the valve body with several mods of my own. Lots of Sonnax stuff.

The 4 pinion planets in my unit still look great after all of my abuse. I modified the pump and installed 3/8" cooler lines to increase lube flow.
 
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ASE Doc said:
We're getting off topic here. Maybe a new thread would be good. I will post a parts list and the mods I did and why in the transmission drivetrain forum.

Grumpy, Maniacmechanic, what part of your 700r4s did you break?

I know the GM 5 pinion sets are all gone. Fortunately, TCI has stepped up and is producing a nice set now. About the same price as GM.

Dana at Probuilt is the best person to talk to about making one survive in a drag race application.

In my experience, the 3-4 clutch is the weak link. The Smart tech is one solid way to address this. Getting the 2-3 shift timing just right is critical. I started in my first build running the Superior 2nd servo. The apply release ratio is too hard to tune around. It tends to cause a 2-3 bind that kills the 3-4 clutch. I switched to the Sonnax 2nd and also run the Sonnax 4th servo. I installed a TH400 front servo return spring on the 2nd servo for a clean release every time.

Behind the 3-4 clutch, the ne,t weakest point is probably the sun shell. The beast or the smart shell both cure this.

I have a modified Transgo 2-3 kit in the valve body with several mods of my own. Lots of Sonnax stuff.
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I Blew out the Rear Reaction Carrier in mine.
All Power Flow goes through it in Forward & Reverse.
I was driving 90 mph on the Highway.
Heard a Big Bang. The Rear wheels locked up. My Corvette skidded and then rolled again fine.
I hit the gas pedal & Nothing but the engine raced up.
Lost all Gears & grinding away Bad.
Dropped the pan later, nothing but Gear Teeth in the Bottom of the trans pan.
 
Lack of lube to the pinion shafts is the leading cause of rear carrier failure. There is a tin cover that was installed in heavy duty factory applications that feeds fluid to the rear carrier pinion shafts. Also need to be sure the rear sun gear is in good shape and install the wide bushing.
 
ASE Doc said:
Lack of lube to the pinion shafts is the leading cause of rear carrier failure. There is a tin cover that was installed in heavy duty factory applications that feeds fluid to the rear carrier pinion shafts. Also need to be sure the rear sun gear is in good shape and install the wide bushing.
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Its all done back in 2010 by me.
50,000 miles later no issues.

My 1965 Olds 425 would just anhailate that 700R4 or yours.
My 1963 GP is way Faster than my Vette 0-120.

I wont ever depend upon a 700R4 for Racing.
Muncie 4-speed like in my 1970 Trans Am.
Turbo 400 in my 1963 Grand Prix.

The 87 Corvette will get a Turbo 400.
I have a Chevy Turbo 400 here.
The Planet Gearsets are almost double in Diameter than what a 700R4 has.
Way Stronger.
Turbo 400 has a Center Support too.
Makes it capable of 800Hp stock.
 
All true I'm sure. I have no doubt the 700's light duty geartrain is no match for a big block Olds or otherwise. The 400 is a much tougher unit. The 4L80e is essentially a 400 with overdrive.

The one issue I take with the 400 is the heavy forward drum that has to reverse directions in the 1-2 shift. This is helped with a lighter, stronger steel drum. The factory part was iron.
 
ASE Doc said:
All true I'm sure. I have no doubt the 700's light duty geartrain is no match for a big block Olds or otherwise. The 400 is a much tougher unit. The 4L80e is essentially a 400 with overdrive.

The one issue I take with the 400 is the heavy forward drum that has to reverse directions in the 1-2 shift. This is helped with a lighter, stronger steel drum. The factory part was iron.
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You only need to upgrade the Forward Clutch Hub with a Sonnax Billet steel unit. Install a 34 element sprag.
Good for 1000 Hp with a Heavy duty Performance race converter.
Just can not match with any other trans out there dollar for dollar spent.
Then its a Close ratio Automatic a Turbo 400.
They Make Killer Transbrakes aftermarket for a Turbo 400 too.
Although the stock Iron Valvebody can be used yet with older Transbrake Kits. Ideal for guys on a Budget and not Bracket Racing down to .001 seconds.
Pro Tree not needed.
Good Launch will spank a Hellcat & New Demon with a Big Block Chevy or A 455 Pontiac V8.

You can buy Aero space aluminum parts for A TH 400. Not needed to beat Dodge.
 
Also due to the Much Larger Clutches used and Surface square inches High transmission line pressures are not Needed like a 700R4 - 4L60E.
Just stock or a Bit over.
There are guys running over 2000 HP with stock Borg Warner paper frictions in a TH 400.
 
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