Refresh 1982 crossfire vette

A 14mm x 3/4" gasket-style spark plug must be used, not a tapered-seat style. For race applications, Champion C59YC Autolite 3910 or 51, A/C R41 CXLS & NGK R5672A-9 are a good starting point. For street applications, use AC FR3LS, AC 41629, or Champion RC9YC spark plugs or their equivalent.

Blue prints answer on summit
 
I would use Champion RC9YC.
Good baseline street spark plug.
Copper core.
Cost is just $1.99 each Typical.
Pretty common to fuel foul out spark plugs on a New Engine combo till Fully Tuned so expensive spark plugs not wanted.
 
Quick question, do you put thread sealant for water, on all head bolt or just the ones down buy the headers. thanks
 
arpultratorque.jpg

In any application where your tightening a nut on a stud , such as on the outer threaded ends of main cap studs or head bolt studs, youll want to use a lube on the threads that gives consistent torque reading from your torque wrench indicating the correct bolt or stud TENSION, oil and MOLY assembly lube and various thread sealants do not always do that,the end in the blocks course threads have thread sealant, the fine threads on the outer end require a totally different lubricant
just some info for future builds
headboltswithwash.jpg

the area on the head bolt threads that appears white in the photo above should be dipped in this sealant, on all O.E.M chevy blocks



80057.jpg


aluminum heads ALWAYS require head bolt washers with oil or ultra lube to get consistent clamp values and the flat surface faces the head the inner bevel faces the bolt head
on head STUDS the same things required on aluminum heads to get even clamp loads and no galling

I usually use this sealant (sparingly)on the course ends of main cap studs that screw in hand tight, and ESPECIALLY on head studs that enter water jackets
read these threads

be aware all head bolts should have the bolt threads coated with sealant on the threads, and lube under the heads of the bolts where they contact the heads and apply tension
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=805&p=1171&hilit=sealant+silicone#p1171

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1262&p=6142&hilit=taps#p6142

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1264&p=13269#p13269

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... ealant.htm

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=3774&p=10002&hilit=bottoming+taps#p10002


headboltswithwash.jpg

alumimum heads ALWAYS require head bolt washers and the flat surface faces the head the inner bevel faces the bolt head
on head STUDS the same things required on aluminum heads to get even clamp loads and no galling




80057.jpg

this stuff is pretty much interchangeable
80063.jpg


with this stuff in THAT APPLICATION
recommended operational temp range is just a tiny bit different from what Ive seen, one has about a 30F higher recommended temp, youll never get close in a properly operating engine to either
DisplayImagesd.asp.jpg

I can,t remember using this stuff but it appears to be similar

you need to use a thread sealant on the thread that remains semi flexiable, so you don,t apply any sealant to the studs threads while honeing the block, and only install that thread sealant on the threads within an hour or so of torqureing the stud threads with the heads in place during the final assembly so the sealant firms up in its operational location under the loads and pressure conditions its suppose to deal with, if you use a non-flexable thread sealant well in advance of final assembly your changing the thread loads and block distortion and more than likely effecting the sealant on the thread distribution, that can lead to coolant leaks

both of these work great at sealing head bolt threads, and freeze plugs etc.

unlike a OEM block DARTS blocks have blind threaded head bolt holes that don,t enter the water jacket so you need to be sure the threads are clean, theres no crud in the threaded holes and you use minimal thread sealant on the lower threads because theres little chance off coolant leaking up thru the threads like with an OEM block where head bolts enter the coolant passages

ON OEM BLOCKS the head bolts extend into the coolant passages, not using both an ANODE and a 50% antifreeze coolant mix can result in thread and bolt damage and cylinder wall internal rust weakening the bore wall and reducing thickness, potentially over time causing big problems
boltrust1.jpg

boltrust2.jpg


arpthreadlube.jpg

this should be used only in head bolt holes that don,t enter water jackets in the block on the lower threads
 
That answered that question, push rods for this refresh, any one brand better than another, the dia. is 5/16..thanks
 
Hi, are these thing worth it
Corvette Distributor Ignition Module, Hi-Performance, DYNA MOD, 1981-1991


thanks
 
Cylinder Head Bolts and Studs: A quality relief ground bolt or stud is preferred. You must use a washer between the head and the fastener to prevent galling. All aluminum cylinder heads should be torqued to 65ft/lbs. This should be done in the proper General Motors sequence in 10-ft/lb increments beginning at 40ft/lbs. Moly lube should be applied between fasteners, washers and areas around head bolt to prevent galling and improper torque values. All high compression, supercharged, turbocharged & nitrous engines should receive a re-torque after the first run-in and complete cool down. A good general-purpose sealer like Permatex should be applied to all threaded areas that penetrate the block water-jacketing.

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/9108002-Instructions.pdf

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...es_Installation_4-12.pdf?11518363283130774143
 
just in case you can,t get too that web site later.

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