Refresh 1982 crossfire vette

Guys , the more I look in to doing a 400 cid small block from the old chev 400 block, does it make more sense, to do a 383 cid from a 350 cid block ? I'm trying to weigh all the options. thanks again...
 
if the object is a street performance engine, Id have a trusted local machine shop carefully inspect the 400 or 350 engine block, you intend to use in either case,
personally Id go with the 400 block if both check out equally and the bore walls provide equal rigidity ,
you gain from larger bore diam. as valve shrouding is reduced and increased displacement adds to the engines potential.
if either block is suspect, I would not consider putting much cash into machine work, its a bottomless pit!
theres not a damn thing wrong with a stock O.E.M. block if your blocks in good condition and your goal is reasonable , lets say under 450 hp and under about 4200 fpm in piston speeds.
obviously your budget, the condition of your existing block, and power goal comes into play here.
 
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When it comes to a Small Block Chevy with Grumpy you take all and throw it away.
Need $10-20k to complete.

A big Chevy you can use the stock block.
Everything else thrown away all new aftermarket.
$15-50 K requires to complete all including drivetrain.

If Drag Racing Fast is in mind a Corvette is a bad choice.
Find a 5.0 stang.
Or vintage Musclecar.
Be money ahead.

If Cruising Ok a Vette.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
When it comes to a Small Block Chevy with Grumpy you take all and throw it away.
Need $10-20k to complete.
Click to expand...
I have to disagree to some extent. I built my 400 including a Dart SHP block, Brodix IK200 heads and
Scat forged rotating assembly for $7000. Every part was bought new, I had nothing that was being used
from another engine. It obviously depends on your goal and your application.
 
Indycars said:
I have to disagree to some extent. I built my 400 including a Dart SHP block, Brodix IK200 heads and
Scat forged rotating assembly for $7000. Every part was bought new, I had nothing that was being used
from another engine. It obviously depends on your goal and your application.
Click to expand...
Thousands of Chevy Engines will get scrapped and be gone forever when many were still good cores.
Most of these guys are not Drag Racers.
A Good Definition is Right off the Bat You Have a Muscle car setup right to hit 10s and 9s in 1/4 mile.
Your Target Goal.
Anything slower not wanted. Run slower and it's Total Failure.
That is me.

Not these other guys.
Just Cruising
Burn rubber sometimes.
Takes 245- 400 Hp max
 
Indycars said:
OK, not sure what your point is ???

Can you explain ???
Click to expand...
Unless they have thier Foot on Floorboards Street Racing Flatout against Modern Dodge not going see Real Life Race Battle.
For one most are Too old.
1/2 blind.
Reflexes not there.
Overdrive trans wanted....right away all drag race realities are gone there.
 
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When it comes to a Small Block Chevy with Grumpy you take all and throw it away.
Need $10-20k to complete.
Click to expand...
.
don,t you love the way some people post a conviction or assumption about how other people
will answer a question, and Id have to point out that thats NOT necessarily close to a true statement in many cases,
while Its true I will point out the way to build a solid engine combo,
Im also very much aware that the vast majority of people work on a very tight budget
,thus as many stock components will be re-used as is reasonable to do so to limit costs.
you can certainly build a decent performing 350-383-400 based engine, with some O.E.M. parts,
or a mix of both O.E.M. and aftermarket, you certainly are not mandated to go 100% aftermarket
 
350 easier core to find dirt cheap. Look for 4 bolt run a nodular crank, decent rods and the lightest piston you can find on your budget. Put the real money in your heads 2k. That is gonna get you the power. Match your components well and you will have a decent engine.
 
Guy's on my 1982 crossfire I just put in a fuel pressure gage between the t.b.i.s and got 11.9 p.s.i.. I have a 1987 vette fuel pump in it, shouldn't it be a higher p.s.i. ?
 
no, 11-14 psi is generally what you see on the cross fire c4 corvette
11-14 psi is generally what you see on the cross fire c4 corvette
https://www.restore-an-old-car.com/corvette-crossfire-engine.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sfire-vette-won-t-run-right.10096/#post-39710



https://oldcarmemories.com/1982-1984-l83-5-7-liter-cross-fire-injection-v8-love-it-or-hate-it/
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Hi, guys, need help again, I purchased a EBL flash and that is the most un user friendly thing I ever used.
What would it take to convert to a carb and manifold...
like what go I do with the tranny and what do I have to do with the distributor...thanks
 
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before you go getting involved with a carb swap,
can you explain what is currently not working or
what exactly your problem is with the current dual throttle body efi on the car?
yeah IT CAN BE FRUSTRATING,
but its generally not too difficult to isolate and test and resolve.
have you done any testing?
have you purchased a shop manual?
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https://www.ebay.com/i/352416246090?chn=ps
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http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lay-switch-locations-and-info.728/#post-54562

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sfire-vette-won-t-run-right.10096/#post-39710

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/82-cfi-crate-motor.12472/#post-63192
 
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I do have a shop manual, I just cannot get around the EBL and I have yet to find any help with it, that includes Bob from EBL.... I know I'm an old guy, but god that EBL FLASH IS SO NOT FRIENDLY AND EITHER IS HE!!!!
 
for a second lets skip the EBL,ECM isues
yes I know its a P.I.T.A,
but its a solvable issue
what is the problems symptoms
won,t run?
won,t start?
won,t idle?
are you getting ignition spark?
whats the ignition timing set at?
whats the fuel pressure?
are you able to read plenum vacuum?
have you correctly adjusted the valves?
have you done a compression check?
if you think about it the twin throttle body injectors,
provide fuel in response of sensors data,
so in most cases issues are related too,
loose electrical connections,
blown fuses,
bad grounds,
vacuum leaks ,
faulty fuel delivery systems,
clogged filters,
or defective sensors
defective ecm,
or defective throttle body injectors

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/51218/

https://www.corvsport.com/1982-c3-corvette/

https://oldcarmemories.com/1982-1984-l83-5-7-liter-cross-fire-injection-v8-love-it-or-hate-it/
 
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It starts, runs rough and idles rough that timing is set a 6 deg btdc, fuel pressure is 11.9, not able to read plenum vac.
 
I wonder how the Renegade would work with a 4150 Holley Double Pumper on top Grumpy or better yet a Holley Dominators 4500.
Bypass all EFI Tuning issues.
 
I have to ask, even though I know you may have checked,
have you checked the basics like firing order carefully
can you post clear pictures of the spark plugs with each cylinder # listed?
have you checked for vacuum leaks?
drop to the basics and work up, youll find the problem,
a great deal of the cars I see, and work on,
(remember most are now 20-60 years old)
have basic mechanical or sensor or electrical connection issues,
so I've generally found that checking the basics,
like replacing plugs, checking compression, checking oil pressure, and fuel pressure,
checking for a worn cam, before starting to check the,electronics, and if possible
pulling the trouble codes and doing a basic ignition, and fuel system check can produce amazing results,
I've had guys tell me they just need a tune-up... then we find a completely worn out cam lobe,
a busted push rod, a rocker loose,
or a couple spark plugs completely oil fouled,
or 6 cylinder holding 150 psi and two at 90 psi on a compression test
or a couple injectors not even firing
 
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