the c4 swap
http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/f-car-t5/
http://www.bgsoflex.com/speedo1.html
http://www.richmondgear.com/01fivespeed.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... index.html
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-b ... -gear.html
posting.php?mode=edit&f=71&p=2653
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#chevy
SIX SPEED MANUAL WITH OVER DRIVE
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521636 ... or-gm.html
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/Corve ... ll-WU.aspx
http://sethirdgen.org/t5speedo.htm
http://www.5speeds.com/t5/
theres a lot of good info in these links
http://www.americanpowertrain.com/gm/tr ... 68-82.html
http://earchitect.50megs.com/corvette/Gearedup.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C1,-C2,- ... dZViewItem
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/Corve ... ll-WU.aspx
LOTS MORE INFO in this link
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2020
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gwhite75/index.htm
heres more info
posted by deeveeeight
I purchased a TKO II from another forum member and had it installed in my '79 'Vette last week. It was not a direct fit kit so some modifications had to be made.
This has got to be one of the BEST MODIFICATIONS you can make to your C3 if you do any amount of highway driving. I have 3:23 rear gears and the TKO II has an .82 OD which puts me right at 2000 RPM @ 70 MPH. The old trans had a 1:1 5th gear ratio which had me at a teeth rattling 3000 RPM @ 70 MPH. I also like the gear spread better in the new TKO II, you can really feel the 383 pulling strong in it's power band, the nice thing is that it just wants to keep on pulling too.
The clutch linkage had to be made longer due to the bellhousing being longer.
The TKO is a top loader so the shifter needs to be moved about 2" to the left.
The center console will not fit over the modified shifter. I cut out the shift pattern indicator and installed a rubber shift boot. The boot holds itself in place without any hardware.
Back on the road again!
LD85 posted this info
Well, I got it in and all and all it was a very simple and smooth installation.
I indicated the BH to make sure the mount hole was concentric with the crank, then bolted everything in
The Torque arm bracket fit perfectly but I did drill two holes in the top of the bracket so I could use two 1/2 -13 bolts and nuts on the top of the beam, the same as the bottom of the beam.
You will see some SS Allen head bolts which I used because the bolt kit I received was missing these bolts and the hardware store were, amazingly, all out of Grade 8 Hex Bolts.
All that I need to do is bleed my new slave, this has been one true PITA to bleed, but I will get that done this week.
I did drive the car and the clutch engagement is only 1/2" off the floor board which ain't right, but I will get this resolved this week.
Also, I need to add that the Keisler guys are a class act, they answered all of my questions, and tailored the quote to eliminate parts that I already had,
another company that I called said "to take their quote in its entirety or leave it", essentially I believe they were too busy to work with me.
Also, the Keisler tech guys called and PM'd me to make sure that I had all of the parts and offered to help in any way, even offered their cell phone #'s for me to call on the weekend,, service above and beyond in my opinion.
So KUDOS to Keisler !!!!!!!!!!
Pics below are of ZF BH and 4+3 BH and ZF tranny and TKO tranny, I used all 4+3 hydraulic slave and master
Also, you can use a bolt on TOB costing $350 or a slip on HOWE 82870 TOB costing @ $150
UPDATE
Well, I pulled the tranny back out and did a couple of things,
1. Keisler did not send directions, not that I needed them, but they did show that I should have used the stock C-beam bolts instead of the four 1/2-13 bolts & nuts that I went and bought. So I took the bolts out and put the stock bolts in, much, much easier to tighten everything up progressively, rather than putting the rigid c-beam in with the TQ adapter plate bolted on to the beam already. No directions was not a big deal for me, but could be for a novice.
2. I installed a RAM 78125 slip on Hydraulic bearing which requires a 3/4" bore Clutch master and is a compressed height of 1.700" , BUT, I do not recommend using this TOB, preferably I would use the Howe 82876 because it is plenty short (compressed height of 1.390") and allows you to use the .045" thick spacers that come with the unit.. I used the RAM 78125 but I had to take the TKO front retainer off the tranny,, put it in a lathe and skimmed off @ .080" off the face of the retainer, which has a domed face,,, no shims from RAM were used. Ideally you need an air gap of .150" - .200,, but I ended up with an air gap of .125, which some manufacturers claim is sufficient.
3. I ran -3 lines from the 3/4" bore Wilwood slave to the Hydraulic TOB and also bought a 1/4-28 speed bleeder to put into the -3 TOB bleed line,,, its a one man job and very very easy to bleed.
Pic of the RAM TOB
http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/f-car-t5/
http://www.bgsoflex.com/speedo1.html
http://www.richmondgear.com/01fivespeed.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... index.html
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-b ... -gear.html
posting.php?mode=edit&f=71&p=2653
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#chevy
SIX SPEED MANUAL WITH OVER DRIVE
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521636 ... or-gm.html
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/Corve ... ll-WU.aspx
http://sethirdgen.org/t5speedo.htm
http://www.5speeds.com/t5/
theres a lot of good info in these links
http://www.americanpowertrain.com/gm/tr ... 68-82.html
http://earchitect.50megs.com/corvette/Gearedup.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C1,-C2,- ... dZViewItem
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/Corve ... ll-WU.aspx
LOTS MORE INFO in this link
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2020
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gwhite75/index.htm
heres more info
posted by deeveeeight
I purchased a TKO II from another forum member and had it installed in my '79 'Vette last week. It was not a direct fit kit so some modifications had to be made.
This has got to be one of the BEST MODIFICATIONS you can make to your C3 if you do any amount of highway driving. I have 3:23 rear gears and the TKO II has an .82 OD which puts me right at 2000 RPM @ 70 MPH. The old trans had a 1:1 5th gear ratio which had me at a teeth rattling 3000 RPM @ 70 MPH. I also like the gear spread better in the new TKO II, you can really feel the 383 pulling strong in it's power band, the nice thing is that it just wants to keep on pulling too.
The clutch linkage had to be made longer due to the bellhousing being longer.
The TKO is a top loader so the shifter needs to be moved about 2" to the left.
The center console will not fit over the modified shifter. I cut out the shift pattern indicator and installed a rubber shift boot. The boot holds itself in place without any hardware.
Back on the road again!
LD85 posted this info
Well, I got it in and all and all it was a very simple and smooth installation.
I indicated the BH to make sure the mount hole was concentric with the crank, then bolted everything in
The Torque arm bracket fit perfectly but I did drill two holes in the top of the bracket so I could use two 1/2 -13 bolts and nuts on the top of the beam, the same as the bottom of the beam.
You will see some SS Allen head bolts which I used because the bolt kit I received was missing these bolts and the hardware store were, amazingly, all out of Grade 8 Hex Bolts.
All that I need to do is bleed my new slave, this has been one true PITA to bleed, but I will get that done this week.
I did drive the car and the clutch engagement is only 1/2" off the floor board which ain't right, but I will get this resolved this week.
Also, I need to add that the Keisler guys are a class act, they answered all of my questions, and tailored the quote to eliminate parts that I already had,
another company that I called said "to take their quote in its entirety or leave it", essentially I believe they were too busy to work with me.
Also, the Keisler tech guys called and PM'd me to make sure that I had all of the parts and offered to help in any way, even offered their cell phone #'s for me to call on the weekend,, service above and beyond in my opinion.
So KUDOS to Keisler !!!!!!!!!!
Pics below are of ZF BH and 4+3 BH and ZF tranny and TKO tranny, I used all 4+3 hydraulic slave and master
Also, you can use a bolt on TOB costing $350 or a slip on HOWE 82870 TOB costing @ $150
UPDATE
Well, I pulled the tranny back out and did a couple of things,
1. Keisler did not send directions, not that I needed them, but they did show that I should have used the stock C-beam bolts instead of the four 1/2-13 bolts & nuts that I went and bought. So I took the bolts out and put the stock bolts in, much, much easier to tighten everything up progressively, rather than putting the rigid c-beam in with the TQ adapter plate bolted on to the beam already. No directions was not a big deal for me, but could be for a novice.
2. I installed a RAM 78125 slip on Hydraulic bearing which requires a 3/4" bore Clutch master and is a compressed height of 1.700" , BUT, I do not recommend using this TOB, preferably I would use the Howe 82876 because it is plenty short (compressed height of 1.390") and allows you to use the .045" thick spacers that come with the unit.. I used the RAM 78125 but I had to take the TKO front retainer off the tranny,, put it in a lathe and skimmed off @ .080" off the face of the retainer, which has a domed face,,, no shims from RAM were used. Ideally you need an air gap of .150" - .200,, but I ended up with an air gap of .125, which some manufacturers claim is sufficient.
3. I ran -3 lines from the 3/4" bore Wilwood slave to the Hydraulic TOB and also bought a 1/4-28 speed bleeder to put into the -3 TOB bleed line,,, its a one man job and very very easy to bleed.
Pic of the RAM TOB