Tools Needed For 383 Sbc or almost any engine Assembly

JohnCanoe

Member
I’ve been picking up tools and engine components for my build a little at a time. Among what I’ve picked up so far are a couple of Starrett micrometers in sizes 0-1” and 2-3”. Other than a 4-5”, what sizes would be required to assemble a 383? Does anyone have a comprehensive list of tools needed for a quality engine build? Thanks!
 
you can get by with less,
and I probably missed a few ,
but heres a good starting list,

and I probably missed a few listed in the linked threads
read the links:D and sub links:rolleyes:
and I'm sure other guys will point out what I missed,
like several trips to the machine shop, good lighting,
an engine stand sure helps, and if your unsure of what your doing,
step back, ask questions and do some research,
before you make mistakes, don,t assume anything,
an air compressor and solvents, gasket sealers etc
your going to need decent feeler gauges
ass-big5.gif

ctrp_0708_14z+advanced_piston_technology+.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html
spring micrometers,
pro-67390_w_ml.jpg

a crank snout, turning socket,
pro-67491_w.jpg

a dead blow mallet ,
20443a.jpg

a can of moly spray lube,

DECK BRIDGE
deckbridge.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-15000-Engine-Cylinder-Hone/dp/B000GKIE4S

61ughCx1yLL._SL1275_.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/ATOZ-Engine-...HMPRQXC1B50&psc=1&refRID=3RDWJ7C8YHMPRQXC1B50

510ZwW8iaML.jpg


Last edited: Mar 16, 2020



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66797/
ring install pliers
pring3.jpg

piston ring filer,
prf4.jpg

rings3.jpg

GEAR PULLERS
4YT14_AS01.JPG

Pushrod Length Checker

prctool.png

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...d-length-checkers?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5
Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66789 SBC 3/8" rocker studs

Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66790 SBC 7/16" rocker studs

Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66806 BBC 7/16" rocker studs

Oil Pump Primer

SBCprimer.jpg

13cal.jpg
23301a.jpg
plastig1.JPG


damper tool
pro-66514_w.jpg
THIS BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH IS THE TYPE TORQUE WRENCH YOU WANT TO CHECK ROTATIONAL RESISTANCE
beam_torque_wrench.jpg

BUT NOT WHAT YOULL USE TO TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS

read the factory shop manual or connecting rod manufacturers info VERY carefully...FT LBS AND NM ARE NOT THE SAME
http://www.kylesconverter.com/torque/newton-meters-to-foot--pounds-force

HUSKY $88 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180?N=5yc1vZc6ev
FOR HEAD BOLTS AND MAIN CAP STUDS ETC.
youll need a good quality torque wrench
torquewrench.png

Piston Ring Squaring Tool

ENGINE BUILDING TOOL Shopping WISH LIST List
ENGINE STAND
foldst.png


Tapered Ring Compressor
pro-66767_w.jpg

Degree Wheel
checking lifter
pro-66838_w.jpg

degree wheel

degreesum.jpg

https://www.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/49347/SPG1-12

71DiMRV8kgL._SX522_.jpg




66962.jpg
micrometerset.jpg

pistondie.png

image_12256a.jpg
sum-900640.jpg

612IeLRyaLL._AC_SX679_.jpg


66797.jpg



https://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html

bv93fans.jpg



cleaning all the thread holes with the correct size tap is a very good idea
T-wrench.jpg

reading the linked threads and info can help avoid a great many mistakes

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=indicator+stand

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flex-hone.9538/#post-96145

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-build-checklist-form.3804/#post-91268

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-resistance-to-look-for.11312/#post-51472

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thrust-bearing-wear.619/#post-37676

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/#post-22981

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-10316

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/assembly-lube-summary.6352/#post-70100

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/page-2#post-92772

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68861

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-block-for-stroker-assembly.2855/#post-77609

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/page-2#post-88663

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-but-it-will-get-you-started.834/#post-1254









 
Last edited:
I wouldn't use a tap to clean the thread, I would use a thread chaser, also known as a thread cleaner.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/thread-chaser-sets?N=part-type:thread-chaser-sets&GroupBy=ProductName&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=thread chaser

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900199

ThreadChaserSet.jpg

Several of these tools are not required, but can be rented for free from the local Auto Supply,
like the balancer puller/installer. Also several of the tools would be used by the machine shop,
such as the cylinder hone.
 
Awesome, thanks! That should get me started. I’ve settled on a source for my block. I’m going to bite the bullet and get a Dart SHP through Carl Hinkson of CNC Blocks Northeast. I found him through forums but I was really impressed by how much time he was willing to give me chatting on the phone about the build without any skin yet in the game. He seems really committed to quality in his craft. I told him I really wanted a .040 quench and he was adamant on trying to achieve this through using a .040 gasket and zero decking the block. I was hoping to use a .030 gasket, so I could leave some meat on the block. I’m leaning towards waiting to deck it until after I get it and pre-assemble it to see how deep the pistons sit. What are y’all’s thoughts?
 
Personally, I am not a fan of machining strength away, only to replace what was lost with a thicker head gasket.
I lean towards your side on this. Cleaning the decks to make them flat and square is one thing. Unnecessarily removing metal (to me) is not justified.
Decking the block also changes the way the intake manifold is going to meet the heads and could affect port alignment.
 
Thanks! Assuming quality machine work, is there a great difference in durability between a .030 and .040 gasket(obviously given the gaskets are of the same material/quality or from the same manufacturer)?
 
generally, go with the thinnest high quality name brand ,commonly available head gasket you can use that matchest the application

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-79067

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-71671

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-basic-precision-tools.16344/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ad-gasket-for-aluminum-heads.4403/#post-26317

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gnosing-and-replacing-bad-head-gaskets.15126/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cylinder-head-resurfacing.15767/#post-94431

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cleaning-disassembled-heads.16050/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

almost all starter tool kits are loaded with tools you seldom use to build up the tool numbers in the kits
yet many are still a good value, but remember you'll need a few auxiliary accessory kits for tools like screw drivers ratchet wrenches and a couple ,wire cutters drill bits, pliers,socket extensions and swivels,
frequently used tools like a decent 1/2" chuck electric drill, and vise grips, 12" dial caliper, multi meter,etc.
you can certainly use a couple of soft tool bags as they are far easier to carry , in your car or store than the cheap plastic or flimsy metal boxes that come with most starter tool kits

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-2...d-16-large-total-pockets-HD60024-TH/312387489

https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tool...wTqPfS82YeLeAXpDNp-vuCv3uC7lV2d4aAtIvEALw_wcB

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-138...c-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set/50200791

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-282-piece-Gunmetal-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/1002618996

https://www.walmart.com/ip/IRWIN-2078710-Vise-Grip-3-Pieces-GrooveLock-Pliers-Set/17238102

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-10-Piece-Household-Tool-Set/50029436

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...Gunmetal-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set/1000596571

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-154...-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set/999909119

https://www.lowes.com/collections/Kobalt-Mechanics-Collection/GR_609

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-439-Piece-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/1001448260

https://gemplers.com/products/dewal...3m7KE5XM0hXefj1ZDtgwWtbHqxTNiEx8aAteQEALw_wcB

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html

https://www.walmart.com/ip/12-Verni...82195?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=14201

https://www.amazon.com/INTOO-Indust...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-Spade...ll+set&qid=1607798231&sr=8-51&tag=googhydr-20

Last edited: 2 minutes ago
 
Last edited:
I have the SBC Dart SHP and with a SCE P11152 (.021" thick) copper head gasket, it give me a quench
distance of .040" to .043". I removed zero from the deck to achieve these clearances.

Your results of course won't be exactly the same, but should be similar.

DeckHeight.jpg
.
 
You can surface your block if the dowels on the ends of each bank are taken out. Just get a solid and flat piece of marble wide enough to cover from the top of the china wall down to the bottom of the head mounting surface. The get some sand paper(with adhesive backing) that is large enough to cover the marble, grits 80, 120, 220, and even finer if you want a shiny finish. Then run back and forth across the surface and count your strokes back and forth. Do both sides, then change sandpaper grits, do it again till you reach the finish you want. I would maybe do a mock up with a piston in the corner cylinders to check your deck height when you get close to the finish you want so you can order the correct head gasket to get your quench right. I did my aluminum heads that way and got a nice finish on them. Here is the thread, picture of the heads after I surfaced them is down the page after engine bay painting.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ld-that-is-now-going-to-be-a-400.7804/page-48
 
Just picked this guy up on eBay, appears unused.:D
 

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John,

Hope I don't offend you, but that is not the same as a torque wrench that you will need to assemble your engine.

Also I just realized that if you are going with the Dart SHP, then you will be building a 400 cuin motor.
 
Haha, nah, I know I’ll need torque wrenches as well. Got my eye on three CDI wrenches. I’m going to get the 4.000 bore SHP with 350 mains and have it bored to 4.030. I know I’m kind of wasting the potential of a SHP but I really wanted a new block for my build and a 383 is kind of where the performance and fuel economy curves meet for me.
 
PS I could have sworn I saw a torque angle gauge somewhere in the links Grumpy posted. Looking back now, I’m not so sure.:D Anyhow, it can’t hurt to have another cool tool.
 
I recently took the time to go over to a friend's shop and B.S. drink some coffee,
and help him finish assembling his BBC engine.
he was at the point of assembling his rotating assembly.
watching him use the stretch gauge was both mildly entertaining and frustrating, not doing it and omnly watching,
I found he had no idea how to set the rod bolt length with the Allen key on the lower
rod bolt.
he had previously pre-assembled the rotating assembly to check all the clearances so that was done correctly.

related threads and sub linked info

yodam.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lling-the-steel-crank-shaft.16345/#post-99022

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-basic-precision-tools.16344/#post-99006

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-about-your-potential-dream-bbc-combos.14607/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-questions-on-bearings.14466/#post-75272


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-torque-wrench.342/#post-87029


yes you can assemble an engine using just a torque wrench and plasti-gauge and get reasonably good results, but to be precise and get max durability use of a stretch gauge on rod bolts is recommended

watch the videos
he had a proform stretch gauge
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-26700716/make/chevrolet
sca-25700_w.jpg

s-l640.jpg

similar to the one above,
I watched him as he was using a long box end wrench and the stretch gauge
and a digital torque wrench to get the bolts very close to the correct preload,
and then verified the bolt stretch with a stretch gauges and a long box end wrench

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-t...easuring-rod-bolt-stretch-vs-torque-with-arp/
555-80591.pdf

ctrp_0901_19_z+limited_late_model+race_engine_build.jpg

we brought the rod bolts up to the suggested torque readings


https://www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/500/555/555-80591.pdf
https://hotrodenginetech.com/how-to-tighten-stretch-a-rod-bolt/
ARP%20ADVANTAGES%20OF%20WAVE-LOC%20ROD%20BOLTS.GIF

materials-chart.jpg

116_0609_rod06_z.jpg

780810l_1.jpg

ctrp_0901_18_z+limited_late_model+race_engine_build.jpg


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Wossner +1 (865) 862-5264 wossneronline.com
ZRP Europe +30 2108251640 zrp-rods.com
 
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So today was a good news, bad news day. I received the new torque wrench I ordered but I also discovered my connecting rods fell victim to the mini-flood we had about a month ago while I was still away at work. We got water an inch or inch and a half deep in the garage and they were the only box that my wife missed that was in contact with the floor. I talked to Keener’s Engine Machine in West Palm and they think they can clean the rods up so I wiped them dry and left them out in the sun to dry them out and I’m taking them to Keener’s Monday morning.
8BC259AA-5452-4614-8CAD-D06632B5899E.jpeg 7406FE6E-BF8A-4F63-A211-59A0CF695381.jpeg77EED09A-7CD8-4878-BC77-7688B68F404F.jpeg
 
the rods sure look like theres no significant damage in the posted picture,
so they should be salvageable,
and yeah Ive had keeners do work before and got decent results:D
 
Yeah, they really just have some surface rust in some places. The guy at Keener’s was willing to talk for a bit to a novice after 3 pm on a Friday afternoon so I was impressed.:D Some of these shops’ customer service is lacking, to say the least.
 
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