I'm waiting on you for that task, I need it done by tomorrow morning 7:00 am, or you are out
of my heart ! It worked for Sue Ann on her kindergartner's.
Trans Cooler Install On Lincoln Navigator
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
I'm waiting on you for that task, I need it done by tomorrow morning 7:00 am, or you are out
of my heart ! It worked for Sue Ann on her kindergartner's.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Note to self.... Buy Ricks rig if it goes up for sale! LOL
Nice work Rick!
But now that I know you did not color sand the trans pan.....it gives me negotiation ammo!
Nice work Rick!
But now that I know you did not color sand the trans pan.....it gives me negotiation ammo!
JohnHancock
Well-Known Member
Wait! Now I gotta wet sand the pan on the car? I hate sanding over my head! Then again it may cool me off a little.
That's OK, it's not going to bother me!
JohnHancock
Well-Known Member
Lol. The water will cool me off anyway!
I had the filter but no gasket, so I had to buy the filter again and a cheap rubber gasket, but I
had a bead on this better Fel-Pro Gasket PN: TOS 18753. When I checked, it always said this
gasket will NOT fit your 2008 Lincoln Navigator, but I thought different. They were the same
price ..... gasket OR gasket and filter, I went with the better FelPro gasket.
You will also notice the magnets have changed position from the photo above, I was afraid they
would mess with the metal filter bottom half while trying to put the pan on, so I put the magnets
further back in the pan, but still close the fluid flow going into the filter.
I did NOT anticipate the temperature location being a possible problem, but the Universe was on
my side ..... tomorrow is what I'm worried about, the Universe does seem to take revenge when you
don't need it !!!
This view is from the other side of the trans for those that are planning their temp
sensor location.
.
had a bead on this better Fel-Pro Gasket PN: TOS 18753. When I checked, it always said this
gasket will NOT fit your 2008 Lincoln Navigator, but I thought different. They were the same
price ..... gasket OR gasket and filter, I went with the better FelPro gasket.
You will also notice the magnets have changed position from the photo above, I was afraid they
would mess with the metal filter bottom half while trying to put the pan on, so I put the magnets
further back in the pan, but still close the fluid flow going into the filter.
I did NOT anticipate the temperature location being a possible problem, but the Universe was on
my side ..... tomorrow is what I'm worried about, the Universe does seem to take revenge when you
don't need it !!!
This view is from the other side of the trans for those that are planning their temp
sensor location.
.
I'm getting there, working on mounting the gauge now. Still have to wire the fans, but it's all plumbed
and working now. Will try to post more picks of connecting the hoses and a couple of pics to show my
faux pas. Just wanted to get that out there before JohnHancock turns me in !!!
I'm wondering if anyone has tried mounting a mirror directly on the black dots of the Frit. My mount for
the gauge in one possible location would be about 1/3 on the dots and the other 2/3 on the solid black
portion of the Frit ..... see photo below.
As you see above the base extends up under the headliner slightly, compare that with the
photo below.
This is kinda what the placement would look like for the driver. It would be higher, since it's resting
on the mirror while I take the photo.
Any suggestions for placement, this is what I'm working with.
This is another possible location I'm thinking about. Although it would block my view of any
low flying aircraft that I might hit!
.
JohnHancock
Well-Known Member
I like above the mirror best. Are you glueing the base to the w/s? Can you tuck the wires under the trim?
Kinda, that's what I was asking about above. The frit is on the inside, so I would be using mirror adhesive to glue onto the frit.
Yes, that should not be a problem
I won't be putting the gauge mount on the frit, it can cause stress cracks to develop.
https://beranek.agrrmag.com/2015/06/mirror-pad-adhesion/
For the complete article use the link above.
"However, about the same time as the new adhesive for mirror pads was introduced, so were
mirror pad frits. This black paint dot applied to the number four surface of the glass posed
another problem many do not realize. If an anaerobic adhesive is used to attach a mirror pad
to a mirror frit, it can cause a stress break emanating from the center of the mirror pad. This
is caused by the restriction of free expansion and contraction of the glass. Both the glass and
the adhesive must be allowed to breathe or a stress break can occur."
http://pub24.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2036554146&frmid=6&msgid=955915&cmd=show
.
https://beranek.agrrmag.com/2015/06/mirror-pad-adhesion/
For the complete article use the link above.
"However, about the same time as the new adhesive for mirror pads was introduced, so were
mirror pad frits. This black paint dot applied to the number four surface of the glass posed
another problem many do not realize. If an anaerobic adhesive is used to attach a mirror pad
to a mirror frit, it can cause a stress break emanating from the center of the mirror pad. This
is caused by the restriction of free expansion and contraction of the glass. Both the glass and
the adhesive must be allowed to breathe or a stress break can occur."
http://pub24.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2036554146&frmid=6&msgid=955915&cmd=show
.
Let's get the mistake out of the way first, so we can focus on the details shall we?
I was so focused on cutting the return line and NOT letting any fluid run down the hacksaw that
I cut into the other OEM cooler line. Once it started leaking the only thing to do now was finish
cutting it and use some fuel injection hose I had in inventory to patch it temporarily so I could do
the fluid flush.
I used a 1/2 inch union to join the two ends of the cooler line. I had to visit 3 places before I found
the right size. Lowes and Locke Supply ( commercial plumbing supply) did not have it, but the local
old time Ace hardware did. He new exactly what I needed and went directly to the right part.
The next photo shows how the ATF fluid flows thru the.....
OEM cooler --> Remote Filter --> Derale Cooler -->Back to OEM line going to the trans.
After pulling the line down from above the heat shield I wrapped the line going to the filter/cooler
with some heater hose and then tie wrapped it. It needed some protection from a sharp edge on
the bell housing and then as it gets to the heat shield.
You can see where I pushed the line back on top of the heat shield in the photo below. Notice
the RED arrows.
I used some more heater hose to cushion the connections/lines that are now rubbing on each
other. If it don't stay put, I will tie wrap these latter.
I save the bits and pieces I cut off from tubing. It paid off with some SS 1/2 inch tubing used for a
spacer on the Adel clamp, the flare on one end helps keep it straight. And if you are wondering .....
no I did NOT polish the SS tubing!
Here is a view from above the heat shield, I can't get my head up there so a photo was the only
way to see what it looked like.
Here's a tip that worked really well, no it's not earth shadering. After cutting with a hacksaw and
removing burrs with some emery cloth there was plenty of crap that I didn't want in the tube when
I closed it up. I stuck the red tip from the a can of WD40 all the way into the tube and sprayed for
about 15 seconds. The spray was way past the debris and it foamed up while running out of the
tube taking all the debris with it. Of course this only works if the tube is pointing down hill.
.
I was so focused on cutting the return line and NOT letting any fluid run down the hacksaw that
I cut into the other OEM cooler line. Once it started leaking the only thing to do now was finish
cutting it and use some fuel injection hose I had in inventory to patch it temporarily so I could do
the fluid flush.
I used a 1/2 inch union to join the two ends of the cooler line. I had to visit 3 places before I found
the right size. Lowes and Locke Supply ( commercial plumbing supply) did not have it, but the local
old time Ace hardware did. He new exactly what I needed and went directly to the right part.
The next photo shows how the ATF fluid flows thru the.....
OEM cooler --> Remote Filter --> Derale Cooler -->Back to OEM line going to the trans.
After pulling the line down from above the heat shield I wrapped the line going to the filter/cooler
with some heater hose and then tie wrapped it. It needed some protection from a sharp edge on
the bell housing and then as it gets to the heat shield.
You can see where I pushed the line back on top of the heat shield in the photo below. Notice
the RED arrows.
I used some more heater hose to cushion the connections/lines that are now rubbing on each
other. If it don't stay put, I will tie wrap these latter.
I save the bits and pieces I cut off from tubing. It paid off with some SS 1/2 inch tubing used for a
spacer on the Adel clamp, the flare on one end helps keep it straight. And if you are wondering .....
no I did NOT polish the SS tubing!
Here is a view from above the heat shield, I can't get my head up there so a photo was the only
way to see what it looked like.
Here's a tip that worked really well, no it's not earth shadering. After cutting with a hacksaw and
removing burrs with some emery cloth there was plenty of crap that I didn't want in the tube when
I closed it up. I stuck the red tip from the a can of WD40 all the way into the tube and sprayed for
about 15 seconds. The spray was way past the debris and it foamed up while running out of the
tube taking all the debris with it. Of course this only works if the tube is pointing down hill.
.
JohnHancock
Well-Known Member
Can you remove the fritz buttons under the bracket with a razor blade?
Thanks! I hope it was clear, sometimes I assume details that others don't know since they
are not here.
I believe it's a ceramic paint that goes over an etching primer. I would be scared to try and remove them.
Your suggestion made me re-think that possibility. I checked with a magnet and got a small attraction, so
there is some metal behind the A pillar. I opened it up it just some mounting pieces. But since I am able
to get at the back side, then I can put nuts on the back side and not have to rely on threads thru the plastic.
I think this will work, so that what I'm pursuing now.
I couldn't get the A-Pillar completely removed, the bottom at the dash would not come free. I just
dealt with it there. I was surprised at the holding power of the plastic when I screwed the allen bolts
in. I purposely made the holes small so I wouldn't have to hold the allens at the same time I'm trying
install it. I started by drilling the farthest hole from the driver and using that to hold the gauge in
place while I sat back to determine the angle that best fit my needs. Marked and drilled the 2nd hole.
Then came the hardest part, getting the two flat washer in and turned so they did not overlap, start the
two nuts and finally get a 3/8 inch socket in from the back side.
Below is the final transmission temperature gauge placement. If I pull the visor straight down, it will
block about a third of the gauge. I don't see that as a big problem, I don't usually drive with the visor
in that position unless I'm driving into a sunset. Also I don't have see it continuously, just need to
check on it occasionally.
.
dealt with it there. I was surprised at the holding power of the plastic when I screwed the allen bolts
in. I purposely made the holes small so I wouldn't have to hold the allens at the same time I'm trying
install it. I started by drilling the farthest hole from the driver and using that to hold the gauge in
place while I sat back to determine the angle that best fit my needs. Marked and drilled the 2nd hole.
Then came the hardest part, getting the two flat washer in and turned so they did not overlap, start the
two nuts and finally get a 3/8 inch socket in from the back side.
Below is the final transmission temperature gauge placement. If I pull the visor straight down, it will
block about a third of the gauge. I don't see that as a big problem, I don't usually drive with the visor
in that position unless I'm driving into a sunset. Also I don't have see it continuously, just need to
check on it occasionally.
.