hey grumpyvette,?
I've always wondered why stroking a 350 is such a popular choice when there is the choice of using a 400 SB. Is there something about the engine configuration that produces 'better' power, or simply that 400's are rarer motors. "
read this
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/
READ THIS LINK AND ITS SUB LINKED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tweaking-a-350-383.13087/#post-68195
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-383-build.12786/page-3#post-66155
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-for-a-383-with-170-cc-edelbrocks-now.13243/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-383-sbc-combo-planing.12168/#post-58778
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-or-upgrading-too-a-383-sbc.11408/#post-54984
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-information-overload.11137/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-26314
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/#post-1701
SUMMIT SELLS G.M. BLOCKS you can use to build a 383 for $700 plus shipping , but ID suggest limiting power to about 500 hp with these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100
OR you can spend a bit more and get a far stronger and thicker casting for about $1550
http://www.summitracing.com/search/prod ... e%20Blocks
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrd ... omparison/
short answer!
its the most cost effective combo , that's easily built on the most common basic Chevy performance engine block, the 350 sbc. its an easy 35-50 hp over a similar 350,and its easy to build.
well first most guys tend to work with the basic components the car came with ind in most cases that's a 350 sbc if its a factory performance application over the last decade or more even so, they want better performance and limited to use of the basic 350 block and while trying to keep cost reasonable the most cost effective build is the 383 stroker simply because of parts cost,availability and minimal machine work.
Almost anything you can do to a 350 that will increase hp/tq will also work on a 383 and produce about 10% more tq and hp due to the increased displacement with similar components used.
yes the 400 blocks with their larger bore have a distinct advantage but they are much harder to find.
aftermarket blocks have much thicker cylinder walls and webs, if your going to build a serious engine youll be far better off using an aftermarket performance block.
One other factor is that common hydraulic lifter valve trains tend to max out at about 6400rpm, about where the common 383 maxes out, while the smaller 350 with its shorter stroke can,t effectively use its potential higher rpm band, that extends a good 400rpm higher with stock lifters and valve train components.
that and the fact most auto transmission's shift much lower in the rpm band than a 350s power band could effectively use to maximize the potentially higher power band
removing the rod caps during clearance checks while building your 383 ,does seem to allow you to see the clearance issues a bit easier
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showt ... id/131229/
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/383c ... ock_build/
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Short-Blocks-Chev-SB/departments/1224/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/
typical two bolt cast crank 350
On oil pans I prefer studs, and an oil pan back plate
you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer
Id say its a VERY bad idea personally , if you shop carefully you can find a reasonably priced 6- 7 quart oil pan that should help engine durability.
SHOP CAREFULLY ,
WHEN YOU GO TO BUY AN OIL PAN for your engine or transmission,
<AND ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT WILL FIT YOUR CAR CORRECTLY,
AND ASK FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MATCHING COMPONENTS OR PARTS THAT WON,T FIT
many guys ignore proven combos, because it may cost more than they want to spend, and either insist on using components they own currently or think they can buy far less expensively than the components, I know from experience will actually work.
MILODON,
http://www.milodon.com/
CHAMP
http://www.champpans.com/products/c/oil-pans/
CANTON,
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/category/1501/Chevy-SS--Road-Race-Oil-Pans/1.html
MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/
http://www.shopmoroso.com/eb/catalog/navigationPath/1::Moroso Performance Products/1100001::Oil Pans/11005::Chevy Big Block, Gen VGen VI?resetOffset=true&entryId=catalog.productgroup.1110000111005&expand=true&menuId=main.menu
AVIAID
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbc.html
STEFS
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm
HAMBURGERPERFORMANCE
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/
KEVKO
https://kevko.myshopify.com/
IF you've wondered why I suggest buying and using a well designed BAFFLED oil pan with 7-8 quart capacity its to prevent the oil from uncovering the oil pump pick-up under performance use.
without control baffles oil sloshes away from the oil pump pick-up
obviously you,ll want to ask specific questions as to the ,
ground clearance, starters that can be used,
oil filters, oil dip stick, location,
oil pan gasket matching both pan and lock used.
rear oil seal type,and frame and suspension clearance issues,
related to your car, before you purchase any oil pan
I think the hamburger oil pan is a better value At $242
notice the better oil control features
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1088/overview/
http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-sbchevy.asp
http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-Street-Strip-Oil-Pans/763991/10002/-1
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/hamburgers-performance/part-type/oil-pans
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=1301
http://www.stefsperformance.net/ste...oil-pans/aluminum-oil-pans-pumps#!prettyPhoto
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-level-in-oil-pan-with-engine-running.11263/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/#post-7231
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-holes-in-bearings-shells.10750/#post-64733
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...es-engine-builders-magazine.11965/#post-57052
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-16458
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-12473
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...essure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/#post-9379
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-basics.615/#post-1731
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-oil-temps.296/#post-361
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/
I've always wondered why stroking a 350 is such a popular choice when there is the choice of using a 400 SB. Is there something about the engine configuration that produces 'better' power, or simply that 400's are rarer motors. "
read this
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/
Vortec 880 stroker Block Breakage and Goals
Was about to order parts and found a couple of weird comments First this guy broke three 383 stroker blocks doing some dyno test Second on the summit site this comment about restricting the stroker 880 block to 500hp If this is all correct and the stroker 880 block is a weak setup as a 383...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
READ THIS LINK AND ITS SUB LINKED INFO
IT durability thats KEY in building a good engine
when ever I get into a discussion with many of the guys I build engines for, the younger guys especially seem to be captivated or primarily focused on the concept of having " a RADICAL CAM, that rumbles at idle, or the new brand X heads that some magazine is pushing in the latest engine build...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tweaking-a-350-383.13087/#post-68195
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-383-build.12786/page-3#post-66155
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-for-a-383-with-170-cc-edelbrocks-now.13243/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-383-sbc-combo-planing.12168/#post-58778
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-or-upgrading-too-a-383-sbc.11408/#post-54984
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-information-overload.11137/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-26314
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/#post-1701
SUMMIT SELLS G.M. BLOCKS you can use to build a 383 for $700 plus shipping , but ID suggest limiting power to about 500 hp with these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100
OR you can spend a bit more and get a far stronger and thicker casting for about $1550
http://www.summitracing.com/search/prod ... e%20Blocks
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrd ... omparison/
short answer!
its the most cost effective combo , that's easily built on the most common basic Chevy performance engine block, the 350 sbc. its an easy 35-50 hp over a similar 350,and its easy to build.
well first most guys tend to work with the basic components the car came with ind in most cases that's a 350 sbc if its a factory performance application over the last decade or more even so, they want better performance and limited to use of the basic 350 block and while trying to keep cost reasonable the most cost effective build is the 383 stroker simply because of parts cost,availability and minimal machine work.
Almost anything you can do to a 350 that will increase hp/tq will also work on a 383 and produce about 10% more tq and hp due to the increased displacement with similar components used.
yes the 400 blocks with their larger bore have a distinct advantage but they are much harder to find.
aftermarket blocks have much thicker cylinder walls and webs, if your going to build a serious engine youll be far better off using an aftermarket performance block.
One other factor is that common hydraulic lifter valve trains tend to max out at about 6400rpm, about where the common 383 maxes out, while the smaller 350 with its shorter stroke can,t effectively use its potential higher rpm band, that extends a good 400rpm higher with stock lifters and valve train components.
that and the fact most auto transmission's shift much lower in the rpm band than a 350s power band could effectively use to maximize the potentially higher power band
removing the rod caps during clearance checks while building your 383 ,does seem to allow you to see the clearance issues a bit easier
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showt ... id/131229/
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/383c ... ock_build/
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Short-Blocks-Chev-SB/departments/1224/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/
typical two bolt cast crank 350
On oil pans I prefer studs, and an oil pan back plate
you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer
Id say its a VERY bad idea personally , if you shop carefully you can find a reasonably priced 6- 7 quart oil pan that should help engine durability.
SHOP CAREFULLY ,
WHEN YOU GO TO BUY AN OIL PAN for your engine or transmission,
<AND ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT WILL FIT YOUR CAR CORRECTLY,
AND ASK FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MATCHING COMPONENTS OR PARTS THAT WON,T FIT
many guys ignore proven combos, because it may cost more than they want to spend, and either insist on using components they own currently or think they can buy far less expensively than the components, I know from experience will actually work.
MILODON,
http://www.milodon.com/
CHAMP
http://www.champpans.com/products/c/oil-pans/
CANTON,
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/category/1501/Chevy-SS--Road-Race-Oil-Pans/1.html
MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/
http://www.shopmoroso.com/eb/catalog/navigationPath/1::Moroso Performance Products/1100001::Oil Pans/11005::Chevy Big Block, Gen VGen VI?resetOffset=true&entryId=catalog.productgroup.1110000111005&expand=true&menuId=main.menu
AVIAID
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbc.html
STEFS
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm
HAMBURGERPERFORMANCE
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/
KEVKO
https://kevko.myshopify.com/
IF you've wondered why I suggest buying and using a well designed BAFFLED oil pan with 7-8 quart capacity its to prevent the oil from uncovering the oil pump pick-up under performance use.
without control baffles oil sloshes away from the oil pump pick-up
obviously you,ll want to ask specific questions as to the ,
ground clearance, starters that can be used,
oil filters, oil dip stick, location,
oil pan gasket matching both pan and lock used.
rear oil seal type,and frame and suspension clearance issues,
related to your car, before you purchase any oil pan
I think the hamburger oil pan is a better value At $242
notice the better oil control features
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1088/overview/
http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-sbchevy.asp
http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-Street-Strip-Oil-Pans/763991/10002/-1
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/hamburgers-performance/part-type/oil-pans
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=1301
http://www.stefsperformance.net/ste...oil-pans/aluminum-oil-pans-pumps#!prettyPhoto
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-level-in-oil-pan-with-engine-running.11263/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/#post-7231
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-holes-in-bearings-shells.10750/#post-64733
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...es-engine-builders-magazine.11965/#post-57052
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-16458
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-12473
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...essure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/#post-9379
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-basics.615/#post-1731
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-oil-temps.296/#post-361
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/
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