yes you need tools and skills

[Grumpy]

If you BUY a nice car all it proves is you have a decent credit rating or bank balance, but if you can drive a car well you also have skills , and if you can build repair and maintain and modify a car, your obviously far more skilled and much more familiar with how and why each component in that car works. (this is usually a huge advantage, and at least for the few guys with those skills a huge sense of satisfaction in most cases)
always, if you deal with any machine shop, assume your dealing with a guy who really doesn,t give a crap,
and print out in fine detail , what you want done ,,EXACTLY....with specific dimensions and a diagram,
with ALL those dimensions printed boldly , try hard to get both a firm delivery date and a agreed upon total price
IN WRITING WITH HIS SIGNATURE, and several pictures of the parts and him holding the parts and a receipt
that the parts listed individually, to be worked on are in what ever condition they were in, TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES
this will be a minor P.I.T.A. but it will save you a whole lot of misunderstandings and arguments
never deal with any shop that says things like,
"come back next week I should get too it by then"
or "stuff like that generally costs about$300-$400, but I won,t know until I get into the project"
or won,t give a firm delivery date, price or sign a
receipt, or agree to a firm price... youll see why if you ignore this advice in spades
Theres lots of impressive fabrication in this thread , I grabbed some photos Ill post here below, and further evidence that once you get into this hobby the necessity of owning a decent MIG or TIG WELDER and some complimentary tools like a die grinder, plazma cutter , drill press , or milling machine so you can actually custom fabricate parts for and repair your car.
honestly if your really into cars , and especially if you need to own something that's rather special or non-stock or your into serious performance, like racing the car, you either need to learn how to use tools or you need a nearly bottomless checking account balance.
YES YOU CAN ACQUIRE the SKILLS and knowledge, from the more experienced members and the forums are here too allow you to point out the needs and experience you've had or hone the skills your in the process of perfecting. that's one reason this whole web site exists, to help you by answering questions

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/most-versital-shop-welder.1594/#post-50625

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hen-parts-are-not-available.11371/#post-52007

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/fabbing-custom-parts.11241/#post-50782

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...op-needs-a-decent-drill-press.970/#post-50726

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-are-you-looking-to-acquire.10920/#post-48021

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/mig-or-tig.72/page-2#post-39178

 

[87vette81big]

I still have not seen a Solid Axle Dana 60 Into a Corvette Yet Grumpy.
I think you are the One and only ever that did so on your 1968 C3.

The IRS 9" shown above is way too complex layout for my liking.
Numberg inspired so I immediately dislike.
Not even close to Drag Race.

 

[Grumpy]

trust me, if I had both ANY extra cash and a bit of local help ID have purchased that dana 60 differential and fabricated a rear suspension using it in my 1985 corvette, but supporting my son ,while hes unable to work, his 3 kids, wife and my family on a fixed income severely limits my free cash flow options.
any yes your 100% correct a suspension set up correctly for serious drag racing has LITTLE in common with a rear suspension set up to maximize high speed handling on a road course, yes you can make a few compromises and get a suspension that will do a semi decent job under both applications but it will not be ideal for either

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...o-help-get-the-chassis-right.9012/#post-32135

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-to-drive-a-really-fast-car.906/#post-27083

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hysics-of-racing-info-lots-of-good-stuff.373/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-60-rear-in-a-big-block-vette.667/#post-41886

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...launch-rpm-at-the-drag-races.5121/#post-14750

well any of you gentlemen looking for anything in the way of new tools?
how about posting your wish lists , maybe someone knows where to get what you want at bargain prices

https://www.walmart.com/ip/0-6-Mach...1808&wl11=online&wl12=332344475&wl13=&veh=sem

https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Precision-Hardened-Stainless/dp/B06VXC1FPL/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1512868725&sr=1-3&keywords=12"+dial+calipers

http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

http://www.eastwood.com/tig200acdc.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-62191/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67492

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...sional-steel-floor-jack-super-duty-63183.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66483

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66490

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mig-welder-175-amp-with-spool-gun.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-8300gb/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67438

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66514

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66480

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66520

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66838

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66787

 

[Strictly Attitude]

Love the whole independent rear end crap bet 99% owners can't even drive a stick axle to its potential. So to me waste of money. Unrealistic bragging rights giving another weak spot in the system. I did research talked to pro's

 

[87vette81big]

Not entirely true Grumpy.
The 1970-81 Firebird Trans Am throws the Solid Rear Axle will not handle on a Road Course out the window.
Herb Adams hit 1.01 G force in 1979 with his TA. All bolt on parts of his own.
Stock rear leaf springs intact.

# 2 example is THE BIG RED CAMARO.
R.J. GOTLIEB'S 1969 CAMARO WITH A LINGLEFELTER 540 BBC CRANKING OUT 900 HP ON GASOLINE.
JERICO 4-SPEED.
RACED BIG RED IN THE 1989 SILVER STATE CLASSIC.
90 MILES FLAT OUT COVERED IN UNDER 20 MINUTES.
180 MPH AVERAGE SPEEDS.
TOP SPEEDS WAS 224 MPH.
ENGINE RAN AT 7,000-8,000 RPM NON STOP WOT.
40- GALLON FUEL CELL IN THE TRUNK.

A FORD 9 INCH SOLID AXLE USED IN BIG RED.

 

[Strictly Attitude]

SSBB GRUMPY Soft spring big bar suspension adjustable sway bars installed adjustable valving. Can be tuned to fit either but gonna cost for that suspension. Road corse suspension not cheap big money for proper valving in shocks like building a competitive drag car. But you really want high speed and low speed valving. Allows tires to make contact under crazy conditions. Think about riding over a pot hole you want your tire ride through it not hop out of it never losing road contact. When your at 100 mph on turn pushing a car to it's limit you do not want to lose any contact. Real race suspension is not $500 a corner for coilovers that is enthusiasts price or weekend racer. I was used to sport bikes when I came into wanting to build a real race suspension. Eye opener when I started pricing what I really wanted for suspension in my car. Will have it some day just takes time and planning . Track days for fun drag strip also. Where me and Brian differ Drag second handling first but still very close to full racecar wanted.

 

[Grumpy]

Im not suggesting you can,t get a solid rear differential car to handle well on a road racing car, the trans am series cars back in the 1970s proved you could do that fairly well, on the camaros,mustangs javelins etc. and I sure would not be lusting after a dana 60 corvette rear differential conversion if I thought it would seriously downgrade the cars handling, I'm merely pointing out the fact that the very best handling race cars generally use full independent rear suspensions for a darn good reason.
on the other side, a live solid axle tends to be far more durable and a bit cheaper and much easier to set up correctly, and as previously mentioned darn few drivers have the car or skills to drive at the level where it really maters.
tire and shock, and computer design technology has come a long way since the 1970s , this has allowed the effective difference in performance to narrow a bit closer between the two designs
live rear axle vs independent rear differential diagram

Live Axle: With a live axle, suspension movement on one side of the car effects the suspension on the other side of the car.
This can make tire to road contact a problem, especially on rough roads or during tight high speed cornering.

Independent Rrear Suspension: With IRS, as one side of the suspension is moving due to bumps, road imperfections and/or cornering,
the tire on the other side can remain unaffected and in proper contact with the road.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ifferentials-available.1282/page-2#post-67241

 

[87vette81big]

Dirt Track Racing Debunks the IRS Need over rough racing surfaces too.

 

[87vette81big]

 

[Strictly Attitude]

I am not argueing it is a better design over a strait axle either it is just a waste of money moddification where money could be better spent elsewhere to make the car handle better. Just at a street car level even at amateur level racing it is more a bragging right over anything. If your car came with it awesome. It is like saying the paddle shifters in a potiac grand prix GTX are as good as an indy cars. Its the idea that is selling over the actual function. You need to look at it from a $$$ to $$$ value aspect if it was a cost effective handling increase it would be used more on an amateur level. The conversion costs could get you a suspension that would out handle that independent rear axle even with you installing it. That doesn't even get into the other aspects of this arguement. Ok lets see irs less unsprung weight ok but more sprung weight, wash. The complications of properly tuning and setting it up. Yes IRS smoother ride on street will be faster on bumpy road course. Drag racing stick has advantages in more anti squat.

 

[87vette81big]

I am not argueing it is a better design over a strait axle either it is just a waste of money moddification where money could be better spent elsewhere to make the car handle better. Just at a street car level even at amateur level racing it is more a bragging right over anything. If your car came with it awesome. It is like saying the paddle shifters in a potiac grand prix GTX are as good as an indy cars. Its the idea that is selling over the actual function. You need to look at it from a $$$ to $$$ value aspect if it was a cost effective handling increase it would be used more on an amateur level. The conversion costs could get you a suspension that would out handle that independent rear axle even with you installing it. That doesn't even get into the other aspects of this arguement. Ok lets see irs less unsprung weight ok but more sprung weight, wash. The complications of properly tuning and setting it up. Yes IRS smoother ride on street will be faster on bumpy road course. Drag racing stick has advantages in more anti squat.

In C3 & C4 Corvettes the entire stock IRS Rear has been weighed.
More total weight than a Solid Axle Dana 60 & 1957-64 Pontiac - Olds 9.3 Weighs John.
No weight savings.

 

[Strictly Attitude]

Morrison 9" irs vs. Stait axle 5lbs heavier again it comes to cost, application and skills that make the decision my bank roll is not that deep to go that route without doing a thunderbird or jag swap not interested money and time better spent elsewhere.

 

[Grumpy]

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To recover ECM codes from the 1984 through 1993 Corvette, place a jumper (paper clip works fine) as shown below between pins "A" and "B" on the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) connector. This connector is located under the dash just to the right of the steering column and has space for 12 pins although not all of the cavities will be populated.

Turn the ignition switch to "On" but do not start the engine.
Depending on the model year, either the "Check Engine Light" or the "Service Engine Soon" will begin to flash.

As the code display sequence begins, you will see a flash followed by a pause and then two flashes. This is the indication for the number "12". The number 12 is a delimiter intended to show where the ECM code display starts and stops.

Code 12 will flash three times and then any stored codes will flash. When all codes have been displayed or if there are no stored codes, the number 12 will again flash three times.

So my interpretation of what you provided is:
#1: DTC 33, MAF is not connected to the ECM (corroded pin/use electrical cleaner), or trace for a bad wire).
#2: DTC 36, Mass Airflow Burn Off Circuit (common issue)

Fix the MAF and verify by disconnecting the battery+ 20 seconds. IGN ON/RUN-IGN OFF. IGN/ON, no START. Once Code 33 is not thrown, and if 36 is still showing:

1. Repair broken wiring
2. Replaced relays
3. Replaced MAF
4. Replaced ECM

After RUN...then IGN OFF, the MAF burnoff RELAY applies 12V to the MAF sensor wire (glows red to burn off deposits) During a very short cycle the ECM (in closed loop mode) reads the MAF output voltage values and resets the IAC. A read outside the values sets code 36, and burnoff will not occur. Then the MAF output can deteriorate (Code33) and affect performance.

I suggest you first scan and post the P Code(s) for proper repair sequence. If you have the ability, another first step is to make sure the MAF output voltage values (for your specific year), are within limits. Last resort is to shotgun #'s 1-4 above. There is a replacement ECM that may solve your problem (1227165 added a jumper for a second MAP input).

 

[Grumpy]