you might not know these tools, info and adapters exist

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
yes once again some reading, thru some links and sub links, before you dive head first into a project, might save you a great deal of work

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=11

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=498

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=200

if you do a lot of swaps these products might be worth looking into, they are very light weight exact dimensional replicas of engines and transmissions that make it far easier to fit and align engine swaps, and you can bolt headers, intakes etc to them

http://www.payr.com/engines.htm

http://www.payr.com/

Payr21.jpg


viewtopic.php?f=56&t=352&p=433&hilit=legos#p433

Header design exhaust legos lol.



howstep.JPG



http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm

,they just provide the plastic parts that allow you to mock up a design? and YOU still need to build your own headers for that price? so for $1400 or so you get plastic sections to mock up a design then you still need to buy the steel, cut, fit and weld up a header all at further expence
__________________
Sweet product but way over priced"


DITTO!
EXACTLY MY THOUGHTS, I do enought odd engine swaps that dropping $500 on that would be fine as a tool cost, but I looked into this youll really need about $1900 in parts to build decent headers and thats MINIMUM it could easilly cost more, the parts allow you to build primairy tube lengths at about 30"-33" youll need 37"-39" primairies on many applications and that would require addition of custom kit parts
PLUS I don,t see the collectors or flange plates listed , youll need several differant flange plates to make the tool cost worth it. YEAH! Im sure I could work around those problems easily,but for $1900 PLUS Id expect that to be handled in the cost
Smurf tube is corrugated PVC flexible tubing used to provide an easy method of upgrading structured wiring systems. The tube is run from the distribution panel to each outlet during the prewiring construction phase. Retrofit wiring can easily be pulled through the tubes without painstaking cable snaking. The most common type, Flex-Plus Blue ENT, is manufactured by Carlon, Cleveland, Ohio. Workers nicknamed it “smurf tube” because of its distinctive blue color

For header builders that kit looks like it would be a life saver. No more wasting metal and having to cut welds and modify tubing to get them just right. just play lego's for a bit, pull it off, and there you go. you have your header all mocked up and now you can build just ONE header ONE time and it'll fit perfect. It does cost a lot, but say you build custom headers for 200 a peice and you sell 10 sets. you've now made a profit AND saved yourself a ton of time and materials.

"Now that's funny! A custom header for $200?"


oh! yeah! HAVING BUILT OVER A DOZEN CUSTOM ENGINE SWAP HEADERS... TRY $800-$1800 ON AVERAGE, YOULL BE FAR CLOSER

JUST THE MATERIALS (especially stainless with merge collectors) CAN VERY EASILY COST $700-$1200 IN SOME CASES AND then IT GETS LABOR, INTENSIVE, in many cases modifying a standard set of production headers can save you a bunch of time an effort IF YOUR FAMILIAR WITH which headers ALMOST fit the application, that and your limited in many cases to 30,45,60, and 90 and 189 degree preformed bends to cut and modify of a standard radias, yeah, you can cut and fabricate but its never a cut to length, bolt on and weld deal with easy cuts a pipe cutter could cut, the edge weld circumferance distance is only consistant on 90 degree cuts, heres something that helps occasionally...

http://www.headerdesign.com/extras/resources.asp

http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm

http://kwikperf.com/

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_measurement_1.htm

url]http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header[/url]

http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store/bills.html

don,t think your MAX rpm is what you use to compute, use the AVERAGE rpm durring a run

btw
http://www.cosworthvega.com/ExhaustFabII/Exhaust_Fab_II.html

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/

http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page1/page1f.html

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html

youll need this

http://www.kusashi.com/temperature.php?a=500&c=kels&d=fah&stage=results
 
figure what you need and check carefully thru the sub links in the thread above
as an example a long water pump and a low or mid mount sbc alternator mount

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=498

Part Number 214L - ALT. (NEAR BOTTOM OF PAGE)
Mounts the alternator low on the driver's side. Bolts to block and water pump for the stability needed when mounting the alternator low with a long water pump.
214L.GIF



OR
123R,223L.GIF


HERES A BBC SHORT WATER PUMP MOUNT, LOW DRIVERS SIDE DESIGN
208L.GIF
 
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