current draw

for you electrical guru's... is there a way i can run high amp drawing 12v devices with a lesser current? like if i had an electric fan that draws 30amps like a taurus fan, is there a way to lessen that draw on the alternator? would using a divider lessen the impact on the alternator? or maybe a capacitor? i was always told large farad sized capacitors are band aid fixes to problems like this.

if something draws 30 amps at 12vdc would it draw less amps if i increased the voltage?

philly said:

for you electrical guru's... is there a way i can run high amp drawing 12v devices with a lesser current? like if i had an electric fan that draws 30amps like a taurus fan, is there a way to lessen that draw on the alternator? would using a divider lessen the impact on the alternator? or maybe a capacitor? i was always told large farad sized capacitors are band aid fixes to problems like this.

if something draws 30 amps at 12vdc would it draw less amps if i increased the voltage?

Click to expand...

I can custom build alternators with voltage setpoints of 14.8 vdc Phil.
Ohms law says yes, increase voltage and current draw lessons to an extent with the same mechanical working load.
High amp alternator &,heavy thick guage electrical wiring the best solution.

if i was able to rig something like a voltage booster to crank the voltage up to 18v then how much would it lessen the draw from 30 amps at 12v?

There is a high intial startup current on all electric fans. On my old C4 Vette I have measured 80 amps startup current .

Is it starting to get real hot in Florida now Phil ? Summertime heat is here in Illinois .

Never tried a Voltage stepup box for an electric fan. May or may not last.
The Heavy startup and working loads.

its not for a fan, that was a bad example i guess... and hell fuck yea its hot in florida... i know grumpy is feelin it.. im feelin it

There is no perfect place to live at right now Phil.
At least you guys in Florida don't get real heavy snowfall.
Or see many Tornadoes .

I kept the cooling system real simple on my old 1963 GP.
Engine started and electric fan is allways on.
Flex-A-Light Fan #398 Syclone used.
Old Delco 12Si Alternator.
Giant 100 Amp Boch Heavy Duty Relay to switch fan on handle High Current Loads of Fan. 8 & 6 guage wired soldered heat shrunk.
Heavy Duty Relay used in Bluebird School Buses.

I am not into Pro Touring Gay Ass Shit.
Not a Single one of those Fuck ass Gay cars can Street Race and Beat the Hellcats let alone that Florida Real Street Performance Viper TA.
THAT ZO6 BUILT THE SAME WAY.
PRO TOURING FUCK GAY SLOW.
ENTIRE WORLD SAW IT ON YOU TUBE.

87vette81big said:

I am not into Pro Touring Gay Ass Shit.
Not a Single one of those Fuck ass Gay cars can Street Race and Beat the Hellcats let alone that Florida Real Street Performance Viper TA.
THAT ZO6 BUILT THE SAME WAY.
PRO TOURING FUCK GAY SLOW.
ENTIRE WORLD SAW IT ON YOU TUBE.

Click to expand...

Lol I love it Brian PT cars go against 3/4 of what you believe in. It reminds me of an old boyd episode where the kid that got into the accident was working on a customers car. The customer came in said he wanted the consol here and no need to sacrifice comfort. He was furious and said this is stupid you are trying to mix 2 things and the outcome is usually sub par on both ends. He is right! The problem they are having with these events is not lack of fast cars but there is a problem of cars getting faster with out being safe cars. But the sponsored big name scca drivers that drive sponsored cars are more race car then street. AFCO and other company's that make real race components jump on the money wagon chrome plate parts and add PT to the sale brochure. Hell cat is here only way to beat is full drag or fight it's fire with the same using boost. Plus seen it a billion times doesn't mean the owner knows how to drive.

Strictly Attitude said:

Lol I love it Brian PT cars go against 3/4 of what you believe in. It reminds me of an old boyd episode where the kid that got into the accident was working on a customers car. The customer came in said he wanted the consol here and no need to sacrifice comfort. He was furious and said this is stupid you are trying to mix 2 things and the outcome is usually sub par on both ends. He is right! The problem they are having with these events is not lack of fast cars but there is a problem of cars getting faster with out being safe cars. But the sponsored big name scca drivers that drive sponsored cars are more race car then street. AFCO and other company's that make real race components jump on the money wagon chrome plate parts and add PT to the sale brochure. Hell cat is here only way to beat is full drag or fight it's fire with the same using boost. Plus seen it a billion times doesn't mean the owner knows how to drive.

Click to expand...

Those stupid PT cars are driving up prices and they cant win any races still.
A correctly hopped up Turbo Honda or Turbo 280 ZX will blow them all away and leave those PT cars covered with a dust & tire rubber trail.

hey man its like anything else... alot of g bodies and classic b bodies were destroyed by the lowrider scene from the 70's-90's and to a small extent still today... we may not like it, but some people do and you gotta respect that they are atleast part of the culture.

now back to the point. can i use an amplifier to accomplish my goals? or will that only amplify voltage and still draw heavy current?

you can't borrow from peter to pay paul Phil energy is energy when you see an increase of voltage it usually just speeds an electric motor up which is why fuel pumps have different ratings for different voltage. Peter would be voltage and Paul is amperage increase one you decrease the other. But this is not always the case. Found this online.
Effects of high voltage. An assumption people often make is that since low voltage increases the amperage draw on motors, then high voltage must reduce the amperage draw and heating of the motor. This is not the case. High voltage on a motor tends to push the magnetic portion of the motor into saturation. This causes the motor to draw excessive current in an effort to magnetize the iron beyond the point where magnetizing is practical.

Don't make me go grumpy on you
https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/current-draw-of-a-motor-under-different-situations.585336/
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/howitworks.shtml

You can always experiment on your own Phil.
Personaly I think the Ultra low tech belt driven mechanical flex fan is still hard to top.
Its simple. No high amp current draw from the Alternator.
Used on every small and large industrial and commercial diesel engine yet today.

Post a picture of an inexpensive electric fan that I know works next.

RELAYS are used to control that application

HAVING A HIGH AMP (160-220 amp) QUALITY ALTERNATOR AND A DECENT BATTERY, WITH GOOD CLEAN CABLE CONNECTIONS HELPS IMMENSELY
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8173nep/applications/year/1996
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...electric-fan-in-4-easy-steps.7774/#post-45162

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lf-the-time-starts-and-dies.11187/#post-50245

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-up-electric-fans-correctly.7150/#post-23981

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-mostly-over-looked-component.2756/#post-7161

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...aurus-fan-addition-jason-posted.574/#post-736

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rical-glitches-in-newer-cars.5492/#post-50908

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...y-adjustable-fan-controller.10762/#post-47039

sensors generally get 12-14 ga anything that carries serious amps is probably 10 ga
and if its for a starter or alternator, or battery it is probably significantly heavier gauge, if your replacing a broken wire you can of course measure to find the old gauge size
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Support Section/Solar Panel & Charge Controllers/WireGaugeSelectionTable.pdf

M22759/16 Tefzel Wire

Insulation: Ethylene-Tetrafluoroethylene (ETFE)

Tin Plated Copper Conductor
Voltage Rating:
600 Volts

Temperature: 150°C



Standard wall ethylene-tetrafluoroehtylene (ETFE) insulation ( also known as Tefzel ) designed for aerospace applications where weight, dimensional tolerance, and mechanical durability are required. This wire exhibits high chemical and radiation resistance. The tin plated copper conductor offers a cost savings over the silver plated high strength copper alloy which is available on M22759/17.

philly said:

its not for a fan, that was a bad example i guess... and hell fuck yea its hot in florida... i know grumpy is feelin it.. im feelin it

Click to expand...

again its not for a fan, but i imagine a load is a load imagine then that its a light bulb that draws 30 amps... probably a better example.

What are You Trying to do Phil or build exact ?
A Magnetic Rail Gun to Shoot Projectiles at 5,000-10,000 miles per hour ?
Need a Nuclear Reactor to Power that right.

If you raise the voltage it will raise the current and power in the device. Since V / R = I and your load is "probably" a fix resistance.
If you have a 100watt light bulb. at 12 volt.
you change that voltage to 24 volt... it will be 400 watt now. and blow up
(First lets find the load resistance
12² / 100 = 1.44 ohm for that bulb,
Now let's see what the wattage is at 24 volt.
24² / 1.44 = 400 watt
current draw @ 12V
12 / 1.44 = 8.333 Amp
current draw @ 24V
24 / 1.44 = 16,66 Amps, and 400 watt its going to burn up.. can not do that).
That is, if it's just a load.
For linear regulator if you raise the input voltage, current draw remain the same(and since watt = V * I the wattage go up), efficiency(Watt-in/Watt-out) go down since the extra power(watts) have to be dissipated as heat.
Lowering the input voltage will help alot, it will improve efficiency but not reduce current.
If its using some kind of switch mode power supply, usually efficiency is pretty good, raising the input voltage will reduce the input current draw. But this has limits(circuit design)

Now, if you take the bulb above and replace with 2.88 ohm 100 watt..
You now need about 17 volt and 5.9 amp to get it going at full power again. You reduced current and its running at the correct wattage"not going to blow up" but it has drawback since you have to power it at higher voltage and you can't change the resistance of your load... You can add serie resistance but that's another story for another day .

I assume

you gentlemen are aware that theres three post batteries that allow you to provide 16 volts too the ignition and 12 volts and decent amps to the starter and other systems???
http://www.apexbattery.com/lifeline...=76738023025&gclid=CPeF2Py_rcYCFUUkgQodsqILSw

http://www.batterycentralmall.com/Batteries/16V_Battery/Racing_Battery.html

http://www.dragracingonline.com/technical/v9-battery-3.html

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interior-electrical/ctrp-0405-16-volt-batteries/

http://custombatterycables.com/product_info.htm

having heavy gauge COPPER battery and ground connection cables with the correct ends, and a 140 amp-to-200 amp alternator goes a long way towards
reducing potential battery and starter related issues
HAVING A HIGH AMP (160-220 amp) QUALITY ALTERNATOR AND A DECENT BATTERY, WITH GOOD CLEAN CABLE CONNECTIONS HELPS IMMENSELY
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8173nep/applications/year/1996

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-starter.1646/#post-65014