Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

Yes the aluminum is much softer than the steel rod, same for wood. If your vise
shaft is square, then using wood would be easy, but mine is round and I don't have
4 hands to hold the rod, two pieces of wood and tighten the vise. I know that's not
a very clear statement, but if you thinking about it for a minute, it might become
clear. If it's square then the wood will sit there and if it's round it just rolls right off.
It can be done, it's just not as easy. See my picture above for a round shaft vise.
Yep. Makes sense :)
 
Sounds like a plan Brian. I'm having a look at your post now.

I've seen some info about using citric acid to remove light rust.. looks like a cheap option..? Anyone got any reasons why not?

Evaporust is $90 for 5 litres.... ouch..
They Sell Evapo Rust Remover in 1- gallon containers $19.99-$22.99 local here & 1-quart containers $7.99-$9.99.
Rustoleum makes a similar copycat rust remover I spotted at my local Autozone store.
Never tried Citrus rust remover.
Flash rust & Rusty parts has been an issue always....Since 1987 when I started at 17.
 
Ideally you don't want to scrub freshly honed cylinder walls with a Scotchbrite abrasive pad.

You can apply Evapo Rust Remover by Soaking Heavy Duty Blue or White Contractor- Mechanics shop towels in it.
Or old School Cotten Red or White shop rags in Evapo solution then apply to the cylinder walls.
 
They Sell Evapo Rust Remover in 1- gallon containers $19.99-$22.99 local here & 1-quart containers $7.99-$9.99.
Rustoleum makes a similar copycat rust remover I spotted at my local Autozone store.
Never tried Citrus rust remover.
Flash rust & Rusty parts has been an issue always....Since 1987 when I started at 17.
Looks like I get a 500% mark up for being in Oz.....o_O

I'm not too concerned about the cylinder walls at this stage Brian... its more a stain I think... will probably be gone pretty quick after startup.. I'll keep an eye on it..

I'm soaking one of the rods in some white vinegar now as Grumpy suggested.

Chemistry minded people... (Rich..) will the vinegar work with the fine coat of engine oil on the rods..? could some washing powder or dish soap help?
 
after the vinegar reduces the rust, wash the part in very hot water , dry it and oil the metallic surface immediately to prevent flash rust returning, a couple minutes cleaning with a stiff synthetic bristle brush won,t hurt either
s-l225.jpg
 
Last edited:
after the vinegar reduces the rust, wash the part in very hot water , dry it and oil the metalic surface immeadiately to prevent flash rust returning
Thanks will do. It looks to be doing a good job... bubbling and going black.... I'll update how they turn out..

I bought a bench vice and a set of magnetic aluminum jaw covers (they were only $8), so I can get those damn bolts out tonight..
 
Looks like I get a 500% mark up for being in Oz.....o_O

I'm not too concerned about the cylinder walls at this stage Brian... its more a stain I think... will probably be gone pretty quick after startup.. I'll keep an eye on it..

I'm soaking one of the rods in some white vinegar now as Grumpy suggested.

Chemistry minded people... (Rich..) will the vinegar work with the fine coat of engine oil on the rods..? could some washing powder or dish soap help?

To answer your last 2 questions- No, Vinegar will not work through oil as a barrier. Dawn dish detergent will remove grease and oil when vigorous scrubbing is applied.

White vinegars, citric acid(/salt) work well for light surface rust like you commonly see on chains and galvanize coated parts.
Chemical Chelation, the process of binding of ironic free radical electrons is my preferred method for iron oxide removal. Low to no odor, safe to handle, safe for the environment, little mechanical involvement and no metal etching.
I personally like Metal Rescue over Evapo Rust. They are similar in price with Metal Rescue slightly higher in some markets (shop around).
For the initial mass cleaning of oil and grease laden parts I prefer good old steam cleaning, but if you can't do that hot water and Dawn dish detergent is safe to use and really effective for a low cost degreaser. Dawn is the best detergent, beats Ajax, Palmolive and store brands. The EPA uses Dawn on catastrophic oil spills in the environment and clean up wildlife. A temporary hot water connection using a garden hose attached to the hose bib at the base of a traditional hot water heater will serve to clean out the sludge and sediment at the tank base while supplying your hot water (if location is feasible). It's always a good idea to clean out your hot water tank for heating efficiency every 2 or three years anyway.
 
Jim, you need to find the chemical equivalent, most likely a chelation method of action for removing rust like these brands called Evapo Rust, Metal Rescue and Rustoleum's Rust remover available in your market to be cost effective. I'm unfamiliar of where a product can come from to avoid the cost run ups when goods are not made in Australia.
 
Gather your Tool List Jimmy.
A Good Piston Ring compressor.
The Wrinkle Band style works nice.
A Tapered Ring compressor is best.
File fit each piston ring.
Need Rod bolt protectors.
Plastic Guage SP-1 Green.
You likely don't have a Precise dial.bore guage & A Full 0-5 inch micrometer set.
That's Ok.
Building your 1st engine & its a Street engine. Not Full Race.
Lettuce Feeler Guages can be used in place to check piston to cylinder wall clearance .
 
Showing your wife how good her dishwasher works for degreasing a power steering pump and reservoire, power assist rack and a pair of valve covers is like showing her how tasty it is eating hard pretzels with cheese wiz and potato stix in bed.
 
When using a dishwasher for dirty oil and greasy parts be sure to spray WD-40 on all the exposed light colored rubber and plastic parts and seals otherwise the grime will precipitate on those surfaces forever discoloring. No, the WD-40 doesn't get completely washed away.
 
I have just cleaned 2 Rochester Q-jets in my Dishwasher Grumpy.
I pre soaked them in white Vinegar beforehand .
I don't dare clean nasty dirt grimy engine parts in my dishwasher .
The Wifee' would freekout.
 
Always keep in mind the funny unwanted results that happen when you need to use water that is untreated or not distilled. Hard water can really screw up a required rinse. If you don't have distilled water use some sort of water softener/water wetter like Woolite, Tide or liquid laundry softener in a small amount (10 ml/750ml water).

No other water choice? Then use CLR for a pretreatment for light rust and rust stains on most durable materials.
 
I know several people that bought used dish washers at yard sales, and moving sales, specifically for use as auto parts cleaner tools
 
Just about weekly there is some restaurant within driving distance that closed down and is taken apart in an auction sale. If you can get one of those commercial dishwashers that has an internal water heater they make a pretty good parts washer. They are usually propane with 115 volts. Really easy connections and a little plumbing to a 55 gal drum. Auction records on the internet show these go for $145 to $542 which is a fraction of a parts steamer.
 
Well, I figured out through experience that the vinegar will as you say, not really cut through the oil coating, but it did end up doing a fairly good job of cleaning off the surface rust. It bubbled and fizzed and a scum formed on the top... The rods were coated in a black layer, which was extremely messy... soaked into fingers, clothes, the wall, the light switch, the door handle and around the sink... Equal parts cleaning connecting rods and cleaning up my mess...:rolleyes:

I had too lightly scrub all the parts with a scotchbrite pad from the supermarket to get the black coating off... Hot water and a scrub, followed by a squirt with WD40 and then oil on the machined surfaces.. In hindsight maybe the scotchbrite would have been all I needed... But, hey, its done now.. I'm confident that they rods are back in tip top condition. :D

IMG_2653.JPG

I also, got my bench vice installed and removed the rod bolts..

How did I get by without a bench vice.... Rick ;)
 
Last edited:
Jim, you need to find the chemical equivalent, most likely a chelation method of action for removing rust like these brands called Evapo Rust, Metal Rescue and Rustoleum's Rust remover available in your market to be cost effective. I'm unfamiliar of where a product can come from to avoid the cost run ups when goods are not made in Australia.
What is typically the chemicals to look for in these products?
 
Back
Top