Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

[Grumpy]

ENGINE BUILDING TOOL Shopping WISH LIST List
ENGINE STAND

Tapered Ring Compressor

THIS BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH IS THE TYPE TORQUE WRENCH YOU WANT TO CHECK ROTATIONAL RESISTANCE

BUT NOT WHAT YOULL USE TO TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS

HUSKY $88 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180?N=5yc1vZc6ev
FOR HEAD BOLTS AND MAIN CAP STUDS ETC.
youll need a good quality torque wrench

Piston Ring Squaring Tool

http://www.grumpysperformance.com/[/B]
ringsqtool.jpg





damper tool

Degree Wheel
checking lifter

degree wheel

Dial Bore Gauge

Pushrod Length Checker

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...d-length-checkers?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5
Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66789 SBC 3/8" rocker studs

Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66790 SBC 7/16" rocker studs

Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66806 BBC 7/16" rocker studs
Oil Pump Primer

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-3 ... 60669.html

harbor freight has cheap and perfectly acceptable calipers

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-dial-caliper-62362.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html
spring micrometers,

a crank snout, turning socket,

a dead blow mallet ,

a can of moly spray lube,
DECK BRIDGE

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66797/
ring install pliers

piston ring filer,

GEAR PULLERS

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-9901-affordable-engine-building-tools/

http://www.powerhouseproducts.com

https://www.proformtools.com/

http://www.bierbros.net/EngineBuildingAndPrecisionTools.html

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0505-engine-building-tools/

http://www.goodson.com/

 

[JimmyDuncan]

Thanks guys!

I'll combine to get a list together and start hunting down the bargains...

How important is quality on these tools. I know better quality is usually better, but some get very expensive and will only be used occasionally... Are there some where a cheap version will meet my needs re: accuracy and hold up to careful occasional use? Any that you'd say spend the big $$

Also, I read that Vaseline can be used for all pre-fitting and checking..? Can this be a cheaper option for the multiple assembling and dis-assembling?

I'm getting excited! If this machine shop would hurry up.... His staff take too many days off....

 

[Grumpy]

in my opinion the engine stand really needs to be rather sturdy and not prone to tipping, you can buy it used and sell it once your done if you can find one locally at a bargain price if it helps but for damn sure don't buy some cheap crap that will tip and get you a trip to the emergency room or worse, use ONLY grade #8 bolts and several fender washers on the bolt heads to secure the engine to the tool head, and adding (4) larger 8" locking swivel casters, while adding significant cost, is a very worth while upgrade, as is adding a 3 ft long handle that allows rotating the engine with less effort with the increased leverage. if you intend to keep the engine stand
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=engine+stand

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-crane-and-engine-stand-mods-accesories.3724/

the proform deck bridge,

dial indicator

dial caliper

CLAY
from HF are all sufficiently accurate to build an engine if you verify clearances with plasti-gauge and modeling clay

 

[mathd]

My advice.. 2 man to turn the engine on the stand, don't try this alone it can be very dangerous.
Mine is very hard to turn, but once it get past some point it will very quickly tip down and you have to hold it. especially with the blower and carb on :O. without the heads and all the engine top component its not really a problem.

But really you can get by with Plastigage and feeler gauges to verify clearance.

View attachment 6291
View attachment 6292

can't check piston to bore clearance(for better parts matching) with plastigauge? or there's a special trick am not aware of ?

 

[Indycars]

can't check piston to bore clearance(for better parts matching) with plastigauge? or there's a special trick am not aware of ?

True , but you need nothing more expensive than feeler gauges for the piston clearance!

 

[Indycars]

Are there some where a cheap version will meet my needs re: accuracy and hold up to careful occasional use?

Dial Indicators don't have to be expensive to work acceptably. Grumpy posted a link to one.

For the degree wheel there are 7-11 inch wheels for 20-40 dollars and the bigger 18 inch can
be as high as 100-200 dollars. Except for the 18 inch Moroso wheel, it's only 56 dollars, much
easier to read accurately down to 1°.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-62191/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ending&keyword=degree wheels&kr=degree wheels

 

[busterrm]

How's your project coming Jimmy?

 

[JimmyDuncan]

How's your project coming Jimmy?

Thanks for asking Bob I'm feeling a bit sheepish about being absent for a while.... The progress slowed coming to the end of the year and after a long wait on the machine shop... I have the short block in my garage, waiting on me to get started checking, prepping and test fitting... I'll try to get a few pics and details up in the coming weeks.. The end of year rush is in full force this week..

 

[Grumpy]

I think most of us get our priority list changed, or at least stuffed with what we think is low priority crap, by wives during the hollidays, I know Ive been trying to accumulate all the parts required to do several changes to my corvettes for YEARS , and family priority's seem to drain all available cash faster than I can get the parts

 

[busterrm]

Haha, right right sure your right!

 

[JimmyDuncan]

So...... Hey guys!

It's been a while..... I've been lurking, but quiet..

Since I last updated the build thread, I've been waiting on first the block being cleaned and checked and then, the block and rotating assembly to have all the required honing and balancing work done to get me to the point now, where I can start checking clearances and confirm what heads I'm going to buy.....

I've got it back home in the garage finally..... Man did it take a long time... I really like the guys at the machine shop... but they are understaffed... or just like to make me wait...



I was planning to check my piston to deck clearance tonight and ran into a couple of snags....

1. With the long time sitting around at the shop, then in my garage, then the shop, then now back at my garage, the rods have developed some light surface rust/colour... The cylinder bores had too, but the machine shop gave them a quick hone before I finally picked it up, so they're more of just a few light spots of color... How do I get rid of the patches of rust on these rods? Its on the outer surfaces and on a few of the bearing surfaces... Scotch brite?



2. How the f**k do I get the damn rod bolts undone.... I'm assuming the machine shop didn't undo them after whatever they do with them during balancing....? Do I need to get a rod vice....? Do I really need one...? I don't even have a bench vice right now... So, if that can do the job, I'll get one of those... Any tricks? I could just take them back to the machine shop... but then you won't hear from me for a month....

I have a deck bridge and a dial gauge for the piston to deck clearance, then I can get all my measurements for my SCR... The shop suggested that 64cc heads would be right, but, I want to confirm before spending..

 

[Grumpy]

to reduce any potential for twisting the connecting rod body to rod cap out of alignment,
(yeah I know you don,t think its easy to do)
its always a good idea to hold the rod firmly in something like a rod vise, but your certainly not the first guy to face that issue , nor will you be the first guy to use a couple large c-clamps , and a work bench or desk top and a short section of 2" x 6" wood to clamp the rod between the WORK BENCH OR desk top surface and the wood protecting the rod body while the bolts were removed

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66769/overview/

A SOLID METAL BENCH HAS BENEFITS FOR USE AS A WELDING LOCATION, OR FOR ENGINE ASSEMBLY, I KNOW I'VE WANTED ONE LIKE THIS PICTURE FOR DECADES.....I JUST NEVER SEEM TO GET THE CASH BEFORE SOME FAMILY EMERGENCY TAKES IT FIRST

 

[Indycars]

2. How the f**k do I get the damn rod bolts undone....

Frankly I don't know how you can get by without a Vise. I used two pieces of
angle aluminum to clamp my rods while working on them. For rod bolts I would
clamp across the parting line of the big end.

 

[87vette81big]

Try a Chemical Rust Remover Jimmy .
Evapo Rust Remover.
Check out my thread on Grumpys main page.
I have a Manley connecting Rod Vice.
Bought it in 2004.
Cost was $300.00.

 

[JimmyDuncan]

to reduce any potential for twisting the connecting rod body to rod cap out of alignment,
(yeah I know you don,t think its easy to do)
its always a good idea to hold the rod firmly in something like a rod vise, but your certainly not the first guy to face that issue , nor will you be the first guy to use a couple large c-clamps , and a work bench or desk top and a short section of 2" x 6" wood to clamp the rod between the WORK BENCH OR desk top surface and the wood protecting the rod body while the bolts were removed

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66769/overview/

A SOLID METAL BENCH HAS BENEFITS FOR USE AS A WELDING LOCATION, OR FOR ENGINE ASSEMBLY, I KNOW I'VE WANTED ONE LIKE THIS PICTURE FOR DECADES.....I JUST NEVER SEEM TO GET THE CASH BEFORE SOME FAMILY EMERGENCY TAKES IT FIRST

Hey, that's a good low cost solution.. the clamps and wood... But, I think maybe a bench vice and some aluminum angle iron might be a good addition to the garage, as Rick says..

That is an awesome table! But, I don't have that much space to spare in the garage.... I am planning to build a small welding table on castors soon with my new little welder... I just need to figure out some basics (read, watch lots of youtube..)... All I've done so far is weld an old strip of metal to an old flex-plate (because those were the two bits of rubbish I had at hand..) and set the garage rug on fire...

Any ideas on the rod rust..? I'm thinking citric acid and scotchbrite pad..? then a good coat of oil.. Evapo rust is pricey...$$

 

[JimmyDuncan]

Frankly I don't know how you can get by without a Vise. I used two pieces of
angle aluminum to clamp my rods while working on them. For rod bolts I would
clamp across the parting line of the big end.

View attachment 6917

I hear you Rick.... It's a bit embarrassing to be vice-less... At the family home I had lots of room and sturdy metal benches... Since the divorce, I'm in a rental and room is at a premium.. I have been buying tools as they become badly needed.... So, a bench vice is now on that list

The aluminum angle iron is use because its soft, yes? could wood be used in a pinch?

 

[Grumpy]

Any ideas on the rod rust.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ust-from-small-parts-with-white-vinegar.5003/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cleaning-used-pistons.8745/#post-30913

don,t forget to number stamp the matched components on the connecting rods

 

[JimmyDuncan]

Try a Chemical Rust Remover Jimmy .
Evapo Rust Remover.
Check out my thread on Grumpys main page.
I have a Manley connecting Rod Vice.
Bought it in 2004.
Cost was $300.00.

Sounds like a plan Brian. I'm having a look at your post now.

I've seen some info about using citric acid to remove light rust.. looks like a cheap option..? Anyone got any reasons why not?

Evaporust is $90 for 5 litres.... ouch..

 

[JimmyDuncan]

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ust-from-small-parts-with-white-vinegar.5003/

Aha! perfect. Thanks Grumpy. Even better I have the required ingredients in the kitchen

 

[Indycars]

The aluminum angle iron is use because its soft, yes? could wood be used in a pinch?

Yes the aluminum is much softer than the steel rod, same for wood. If your vise
shaft is square, then using wood would be easy, but mine is round and I don't have
4 hands to hold the rod, two pieces of wood and tighten the vise. I know that's not
a very clear statement, but if you thinking about it for a minute, it might become
clear. If it's square then the wood will sit there and if it's round it just rolls right off.
It can be done, it's just not as easy. See my picture above for a round shaft vise.