If we do..we spend the next day repairing all the screw ups....
400ci small block fuellie heads which cams should be used
- Thread starter Arjen
- Start date
If we do..we spend the next day repairing all the screw ups....
It also has to be like the original...
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
I have not used an English Wheel yet.
My bud Ed wants to buy one in his garage.
I have been posting Pics of Race Car fab projects on Digital Corvette for the guys there time to time
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Ok Thanks.
She's back!
We messed up the in going shaft of the transmission. Fitted the converter on the wrong way!.
We are now fine tuning. Some valve noise on one cylinder and some tuning of the carb.
Also pinking on low revs. We have got the ignition at 9 degrees static now. We will reduce to see what happens.
She goes like a rocket though....
We messed up the in going shaft of the transmission. Fitted the converter on the wrong way!.
We are now fine tuning. Some valve noise on one cylinder and some tuning of the carb.
Also pinking on low revs. We have got the ignition at 9 degrees static now. We will reduce to see what happens.
She goes like a rocket though....
Yes, I want to see pics of how you can do that !
I think he meant he installed the flex-plate facing the wrong direction on the crank.. Ive seen guys do that before
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bolts-on-converter.11083/#post-49347
flexplate too crank hub
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-1 ... /overview/
flexplate too converter
http://www.summitracing.com/search/prod ... er%20Bolts
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bolts-on-converter.11083/#post-49347
flexplate too crank hub
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-1 ... /overview/
flexplate too converter
http://www.summitracing.com/search/prod ... er%20Bolts
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Oh boy
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Somewhere around 6 -18 degrees BTDC.
28-36 BTDC Total with mechanical advance.
If you here Pinking do not use Vacuum advance at all is my advice.
15-18 Intial Base idle BTDC is for Aggressive Race Cams and 110 + Motor octane typical.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
No. Vacuum advance is for Fuel Economy purposes.
Not desired 99.99999% of the time on High Performance Engines custom built like You Have.
I can,t even imaging anyone DUMB enough to use a HAMMER on a torque converter, to get it to slide back onto the trans input shaft!
we all learn by making mistakes!
but that should NEVER be repeated.
the first few rule's of GRUMPY'S engine assembly
(1) THINK THINGS THROUGH CAREFULLY ,
WRITE DOWN A LIST OF COMPONENTS ,
MAKE DARN SURE THE LIST IS COMPATIBLE WITH,
and AT LEAST SEMI-REASONABLY PRICED WITHIN YOUR BUDGET.
FOR WHAT YOU INTEND TO BUILD AND RESEARCH THE RELATED MACHINE WORK,
RESEARCH CAREFULLY THE COMPONENT INSTALLATION AND INTENDED USE ,
AND POWER BAND THE PARTS WILL REQUIRE
AND FIND AN EXPERIENCED MENTOR.
(2) if in doubt, about how to do anything, on an engine, do some detailed research,
find and compare at least 3-5 valid trust worthy sources info,
read the instructions over again, several time's very carefully
and if available watch several related videos.
(3) if any component will not easily function as designed or requires a good bit of physical force to install ,
or your not 100% sure your doing something CORRECTLY
STOP, FIND OUT EXACTLY HOW THE PARTS SUPPOSED TO FIT AND FUNCTION,& WHY! YOUR HAVING PROBLEMS
theres a reason, and you better verify your clearances are correct , and your following the instructions before you proceed.
(4) never assume the parts you purchased can be used without carefully , cleaning them prior too,
checking the physical condition, verifying clearances and using the correct sealant, lubricants etc.
(5) the quality of a component is generally at least loosely related to the cost to produce it,
and the amount of detailed research and quality machine work that went into its production.
if you got a significant reduced price, theres typically a reason.
it might simply be because a new improved part superseded the one you purchased,
but it might be a far lower quality imported clone with lower quality materials and machine work.
its the purchasers responsibility to research quality.
(6) if you did not do the work personally or at least take the effort to verify it was done correctly and personally verify clearances
ITS almost a sure thing that it was NOT done , correctly, and yes that mandates you fully understand what your looking at,
and how the components are supposed to function and have high quality precision measuring tools.
(7) ITS ALMOST ALWAYS FASTER AND LESS EXPENSIVE , AND PRODUCES BETTER RESULTS IF YOU,
BUY FEWER HIGH QUALITY PARTS & DO THINGS CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME
we all learn by making mistakes!
but that should NEVER be repeated.
the first few rule's of GRUMPY'S engine assembly
(1) THINK THINGS THROUGH CAREFULLY ,
WRITE DOWN A LIST OF COMPONENTS ,
MAKE DARN SURE THE LIST IS COMPATIBLE WITH,
and AT LEAST SEMI-REASONABLY PRICED WITHIN YOUR BUDGET.
FOR WHAT YOU INTEND TO BUILD AND RESEARCH THE RELATED MACHINE WORK,
RESEARCH CAREFULLY THE COMPONENT INSTALLATION AND INTENDED USE ,
AND POWER BAND THE PARTS WILL REQUIRE
AND FIND AN EXPERIENCED MENTOR.
(2) if in doubt, about how to do anything, on an engine, do some detailed research,
find and compare at least 3-5 valid trust worthy sources info,
read the instructions over again, several time's very carefully
and if available watch several related videos.
(3) if any component will not easily function as designed or requires a good bit of physical force to install ,
or your not 100% sure your doing something CORRECTLY
STOP, FIND OUT EXACTLY HOW THE PARTS SUPPOSED TO FIT AND FUNCTION,& WHY! YOUR HAVING PROBLEMS
theres a reason, and you better verify your clearances are correct , and your following the instructions before you proceed.
(4) never assume the parts you purchased can be used without carefully , cleaning them prior too,
checking the physical condition, verifying clearances and using the correct sealant, lubricants etc.
(5) the quality of a component is generally at least loosely related to the cost to produce it,
and the amount of detailed research and quality machine work that went into its production.
if you got a significant reduced price, theres typically a reason.
it might simply be because a new improved part superseded the one you purchased,
but it might be a far lower quality imported clone with lower quality materials and machine work.
its the purchasers responsibility to research quality.
(6) if you did not do the work personally or at least take the effort to verify it was done correctly and personally verify clearances
ITS almost a sure thing that it was NOT done , correctly, and yes that mandates you fully understand what your looking at,
and how the components are supposed to function and have high quality precision measuring tools.
(7) ITS ALMOST ALWAYS FASTER AND LESS EXPENSIVE , AND PRODUCES BETTER RESULTS IF YOU,
BUY FEWER HIGH QUALITY PARTS & DO THINGS CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME
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