427 small block cam selection

drpipes

Member
Going with a 427 small block. World products short block 4.125 bore 4.00 stroke. Dart pro 1 heads 215 cc runners 64 cc chambers. Air Gap RPM intake. Car is a '67 vette with 4 speed and 3.36-3.55 gears(?). Primary use is frequent driver with occasional street light challenges. I really would like to keep up with late model vettes from 0-100. I want to go with a hyraulic roller but nothing too radical. What would you recommend for this combo? Car is a small block car so going big block is a little too much trouble plus I can use a bunch of accessories from my current engine. HP range 500-550 with plenty of low end torque! Is there anything about this setup that you would change?
 
drpipes said:
Going with a 427 small block. World products short block 4.125 bore 4.00 stroke. Dart pro 1 heads 215 cc runners 64 cc chambers. Air Gap RPM intake. Car is a '67 vette with 4 speed and 3.36-3.55 gears(?). Primary use is frequent driver with occasional street light challenges. I really would like to keep up with late model vettes from 0-100. I want to go with a hyraulic roller but nothing too radical. What would you recommend for this combo? Car is a small block car so going big block is a little too much trouble plus I can use a bunch of accessories from my current engine. HP range 500-550 with plenty of low end torque! Is there anything about this setup that you would change?



now with a HP goal that high your going to NEED a serious roller cam,
assuming average flat top pistons the static compressions at about 11.5:1 with that combo,BECAUSE this is a street/strip car, ILL assume you selected the 10:1 compression ratio short block option???

http://www.worldcastings.com/products/m ... locks.html
101314 MOTOWN SBC 427 Kit Cast iron -20



I hope youve got dished pistons with about a 10:1 cpr with those 64cc heads if you intend to run on the typical pump gas, your going to need to get some duration just to bleed off low rpm cylinder pressure even at 10:1 compression, ID swap to 3.73:1-3.90:1 rear gears, as it will allow the engine to spend a greater percentage of its time in each gear in the engines sweet spot in the torque curve, but with your intended goal in mind youll need to put up with a lopey idle,at least you have a manual transmission so that helps the selection.

ID select an ERSON 4/7 swap hydraulic roller on a BILLET CAM CORE, and 1.6:1 roller rockers

E119853-47

242°/250° .548"/.548"(1.5:1 rockers) .584"/.584" (1.6:1 rockers) 108°LSA

(have it ground on a 110 LSA and install it at 106 when you degree it in)[/color]

BE VERY SURE YOU CHECK THE CAM LOBE TO CONNECTING ROD CLEARANCE, SO STOKER CLEARANCE CONNECTING RODS ARE MANDATORY, ERSON CAN grind THIS ON AN EXTRA SMALL BASE .900 LOBE but with CAREFUL ASSEMBLY AND THE CORRECT PROFILE RODS the 1.087 base circle which is PREFERRED will fit,IF YOU SELECT THE CORRECT ROD PROFILE. both my engine software and the tech guy at ERSON think you'll reach your goal and have a tire destroying torque monster

call 1800-641-7920

http://www.pbm-erson.com/store.php?catId=691&parent=327
 
any questions????

BTW headers with 1.75" primaries about 37"-38" long and a 3" collector about 18-20" long will help maximize the torque curve

don,t forget to verify the cam to rod clearance

p140810_image_large.jpg

block-clearance.jpg

why you need to verify the cam to rod bolt clearance
 
Thanks for the information-- I really appreciate the prompt feedback! Are you OK with the head/intake combo? I have a call in to World to see what kind of rod/clearance issues there might be. I am really looking forward to this project! I will keep you posted on the progress. :D
 
On the headers--I have sidepipes unfortunately so I am a liittle/lot limited on my choices. Thanks again. This website is very helpful!!
 
heres the heads I think your referring too

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dart/301/10511122P/10002/-1
$1242 plus shipping for a pair

Platinum 215 SBC 23° Iron Cylinder Head
Part# 10510020P thru 10620020P
Material: Superior iron alloy
Comb Chambers: 64cc & 72cc
Intake Valve Dia: 2.05”
Intake Port volume: 215cc
Intake Port Dim: 2.210” x 1.210”
Int Port Location: Stock
Intake Gasket: Fel-Pro# 1206
Exh Valve Dia.: 1.600”
Exh Port volume: 84cc
Exhaust Port Dim: 1.380” x 1.420” w
Exh Port Location: Stock location & bolt pattern
Exhaust Gasket: Fel-Pro# 1404 or 1405
Flow, Intake: 268cfm @ .600” lift / 28”
Flow, Exhaust: 175cfm @ .600” lift / 28”

Head Bolts: Stock bolts can be used. We recommend ARP# 134-3601
Head Studs: ARP# 134-4001 or 234-4301 (12pt)
Manifold: Alum Single Plane Dart (opening - 1.100”x 2.000”) 5.500” tall
Milling: Min. 58cc = .060” (.0065” = 1cc) Flat Mill
Angle mill .125” safely / .200” = 49cc 1.5° (carefully)
Pistons: Most 23°aftermarket pistons.
Push Rod length: Stock thru +.100” Should always measure (Stock length = 7.800”)
Push rod Guide Plate: Must use Comp Cam # 4808 (flat)
Retainers: Steel (10°) / 1.250” ( 7°)
Spark Plug: Angle or straight, .460” reach, tapered seat, Autolite AR133
Spring Pockets: 1.550” OD (.030” deeper max)
Springs: Our Assembly: 1.250S = 110# @ 1.700” / .520” max Comp 981
1.437D = 130# @ 1.800” / .620” max Comp 987
1.550D = 195# @ 1.900” / .690” max Comp 954
Valve Length: Std 4.890” w/ 1.250 & 1.437 / 5.035” (+.100) w/ 1.550
Valve Stem Dia: .3415” - 11/32”
Valve Train: Std SBC 3/8” or 7/16” stud mount
Valve Guides: .439” OD Int = Mag-bronze Exh = Phos-bronze (.002” press)
Valve Guide length: 1.950”
Valve Guide clearance: .0014” - .002” (with our .3415 dia. valve stem)
Valve Guide Spacing: 1.890” moved .030” from stock
Valve Seats: Exh = Hardened Ductile Iron, .006” press
Valve Seat dim. Exh - 1.650” x 1.350” x .350”
Valve Seat angles: Int = 32° - 45° - 60° - 70°-80° Exh = 37° - 45° - radius
Stud Girdle: Use any standard girdle
Torque: Head Bolts = 70 ft/lb
Rocker Studs = 45 ft/lb
Manifold = 35 ft/lb
Block Use: Any SBC Iron or Aluminum

ID HAVE GONE THIS ROUTE

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-32400007/

$1,399.95
http://static.summitracing.com/global/i ... %20sbc.pdf


aluminum heads, that weigh less, flow better,
dart.......0.600' 268/175
trickflow 0.600" 282 /198
are less likely to get into detonation, and are much easier to repair for the price difference is a no brainer in my opinion
 
O.K. I wimped out! I was in the process of planning out the 427 when I found Shafiroff engines and there was the motor I was trying to build plus an engine dyno tune and a 2 year warranty!! We will see what this thing does to the 215/65/15 tires!
http://www.ultrastreet.net
 
drpipes said:
O.K. I wimped out! I was in the process of planning out the 427 when I found Shafiroff engines and there was the motor I was trying to build plus an engine dyno tune and a 2 year warranty!! We will see what this thing does to the 215/65/15 tires!
http://www.ultrastreet.net


WE each make choices and going the crate motor route is not a bad way to go if you don,t have the tools and experience to build the engine yourself, and having a warranty (IF they stand behind it if something goes wrong is a huge PLUS)

well let us know the details of how your choice works out and PLEASE post details of the installation and costs ETC.,
I build engines all the time and have thousands of dollars tied up in tools, I still buy and install crate engines sometimes as occasionally you get exactly what your looking for with a warranty cheaper than you could build it, so don,t feel bad!
 
Back
Top