"I just want 500hp" I hear that ALL the time..and its not just the new guys with the vette they just bought as a project car either,most guys start with a 350 sbc and think they can slap an intake from the local swap meet, a $150 hydrolic cam and headers on thier vette or nova and get 500hp..... :bh well it ain,t about to work that way!!!
one very good CD to get if your a beginer to engine assembly
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
your NOT going to get NEAR 500 hp without changing the CAM and CYLINDER HEADS....or adding nitrous or a supercharger....NO WAY,NO CHANCE....so youll need to be aware of that fact FIRST before planing your buildup. next the larger your displacement the EASIER it will be to make 500hp,and your just going to be flat out wasteing money if your not aware of that.
your first mandatory step, is to get to know what your talking about and how the differant factors and parts affect each other, and its not just the engine thayt needs work, the drivetrain and brakes/suspension and tires must be upgraded to have a safe effective combo, youll waste far more money learning by trial and error than doing it correctly so start LEARNING, BEFORE SPENDING $ WASTING MONEY
you CAN build a 500 hp small block and not totally kill your average bank account but it takes planing and awareness that the finnished engine will NOT BE easily driven on long trips at low rpms with the air conditioning and radio opperating well at the normal rpms and noise levels UNLESS theres a great deal of carefull planing and parts sellection, and the realization that the drive train and engines power band will change.
youve first got to decide on the power adders or displacement changes or other mods youll use to significantly boost the power and what if any compromises in the driveability your willing to live with.
its much easier for the guys with the older mussle car era ,manual transmission cars, to reach the 500 hp goal because they don,t generally expect the car to be a smooth & quiet running car to begin with.
theres several factors that need to be addressed, firs its far easier to reach 500 hp PLUS with a larger displacement and higher compression ratio, simply because larger displacements can produce MORE HORSEPOWER PER CUBIC INCH OF DISPLACEMENT, and higher compression ratios CAN make the engine run more effiecintly but that generally will require higher octane fuel.
theres hundreds of ways to tweak a SBC to reach 500 hp, but Id strongly suggest if your starting fron a basic bare 350 block like most guys do, simply because thats the more comon basic engine, that you consider swapping to a 3.75" or 3.875" stroker crank , and higher than stock compression ratio pistons to boost displacement (with a slight over bore) to 383 or 396-401 displacement, as the increased displacement and increased compression will make reaching the goal easier
keep in mind that for a street car your NOT building the engine for max peak power, your looking to build for the best average power/tq curve over the rpm range youll use most
AND THAT HAVING SLIGHTLY MORE HP THAN THE MINIMUM REQUIRED IS SMART, simply because you won,t always have the ideal tune or traction available,its silly to shoot for minimum levels yet its a waste of money to over build the engine, to levels youll seldom use or even want, as theres always compromizes in driveability
ok first Id point out that its silly to build anything smaller than a 383 displacement simply because youll make significantly greater total power from a larger engine than a smaller one,COSTS for a 383 are just not that much higher than a 350, and its TOTAL POWER not horsepower per cubic inch your interested in!
next,CORRECTLY MATCHING the cylinder heads, cam and compression ratio , to the rpm range where youll get the best results is where youll make most of your power potential.
think it thru before buying parts, and only sellect those components that match your goal,by far the most comon mistake is randomly sellecting mis-matched parts because you "GOT A DEAL"
ok lets look at your options, to keep costs reasonable we want to use what we can from your current engine but its insane to limit yourself to parts that restrict your potential power levels severly like the current heads,intake and rear gear ratio.
the formula for hp is (tq x rpm/5252=hp
example
450 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm=257hp
450 ft lbs of torque at 6000rpm=514hp
because the torque is available at that higher RPM RATE and at the higher rpm using gearing the rotational force the engine supplied can be applied faster to the rear tires, the WORK,that could be done per minute, or horsepower increased
buy or order ALL OF these FIRST AND TAKE THE TIME TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INFO
http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module=order_catalog
http://afr.cmgroupmarketing.com/form.php
http://www.brodix.com/catalog/catalog.html
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Perform...6722/ref=pd_bbs_3/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunick...=pd_bbs_3/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/Big-Inch-Chev...f=sr_1_11/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Chevy-S...f=sr_1_47/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8&s=books
READ THRU THESE
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles.php#SBC
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
want a PARTS LIST for a DECENT COMBO,ITS NOT IDEAL FOR STREET USE BUT FOR A WEEKEND TOY IT WORKS REALLY WELL, just have the heads sellected have about 10.7:1 cpr
BE AWARE youll need a high rize hood on some cars due to the manifold/carb height
heads
http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php
intake
( HLY-300-110)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
cam
(crane 110921)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
short block
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... r=SBTP383F
lifters
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... r=651080DL
rockers
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... ber=1106-8
carb
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... er=1563010
nitrous kit
(Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) 02101NOS )
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
use full length 1 3/4" headers and a full 3" exhaust with an (X)
use a manual trans and a 4.11:1 rear gear with a 30 LB steel flywheel, a decent CLUTCH, or a 3000rpm stall conveter
use a 7-8 qt baffled oil pan and moroso windage screen
maybe one of the more computer savy guys can post a desktop dyno curve from engine dyno software results on that combo, but it will produce more power than your likely to be able to use even before you hit the giggle gas
one very good CD to get if your a beginer to engine assembly
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
your NOT going to get NEAR 500 hp without changing the CAM and CYLINDER HEADS....or adding nitrous or a supercharger....NO WAY,NO CHANCE....so youll need to be aware of that fact FIRST before planing your buildup. next the larger your displacement the EASIER it will be to make 500hp,and your just going to be flat out wasteing money if your not aware of that.
your first mandatory step, is to get to know what your talking about and how the differant factors and parts affect each other, and its not just the engine thayt needs work, the drivetrain and brakes/suspension and tires must be upgraded to have a safe effective combo, youll waste far more money learning by trial and error than doing it correctly so start LEARNING, BEFORE SPENDING $ WASTING MONEY
you CAN build a 500 hp small block and not totally kill your average bank account but it takes planing and awareness that the finnished engine will NOT BE easily driven on long trips at low rpms with the air conditioning and radio opperating well at the normal rpms and noise levels UNLESS theres a great deal of carefull planing and parts sellection, and the realization that the drive train and engines power band will change.
youve first got to decide on the power adders or displacement changes or other mods youll use to significantly boost the power and what if any compromises in the driveability your willing to live with.
its much easier for the guys with the older mussle car era ,manual transmission cars, to reach the 500 hp goal because they don,t generally expect the car to be a smooth & quiet running car to begin with.
theres several factors that need to be addressed, firs its far easier to reach 500 hp PLUS with a larger displacement and higher compression ratio, simply because larger displacements can produce MORE HORSEPOWER PER CUBIC INCH OF DISPLACEMENT, and higher compression ratios CAN make the engine run more effiecintly but that generally will require higher octane fuel.
theres hundreds of ways to tweak a SBC to reach 500 hp, but Id strongly suggest if your starting fron a basic bare 350 block like most guys do, simply because thats the more comon basic engine, that you consider swapping to a 3.75" or 3.875" stroker crank , and higher than stock compression ratio pistons to boost displacement (with a slight over bore) to 383 or 396-401 displacement, as the increased displacement and increased compression will make reaching the goal easier
keep in mind that for a street car your NOT building the engine for max peak power, your looking to build for the best average power/tq curve over the rpm range youll use most
AND THAT HAVING SLIGHTLY MORE HP THAN THE MINIMUM REQUIRED IS SMART, simply because you won,t always have the ideal tune or traction available,its silly to shoot for minimum levels yet its a waste of money to over build the engine, to levels youll seldom use or even want, as theres always compromizes in driveability
ok first Id point out that its silly to build anything smaller than a 383 displacement simply because youll make significantly greater total power from a larger engine than a smaller one,COSTS for a 383 are just not that much higher than a 350, and its TOTAL POWER not horsepower per cubic inch your interested in!
next,CORRECTLY MATCHING the cylinder heads, cam and compression ratio , to the rpm range where youll get the best results is where youll make most of your power potential.
think it thru before buying parts, and only sellect those components that match your goal,by far the most comon mistake is randomly sellecting mis-matched parts because you "GOT A DEAL"
ok lets look at your options, to keep costs reasonable we want to use what we can from your current engine but its insane to limit yourself to parts that restrict your potential power levels severly like the current heads,intake and rear gear ratio.
the formula for hp is (tq x rpm/5252=hp
example
450 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm=257hp
450 ft lbs of torque at 6000rpm=514hp
because the torque is available at that higher RPM RATE and at the higher rpm using gearing the rotational force the engine supplied can be applied faster to the rear tires, the WORK,that could be done per minute, or horsepower increased
buy or order ALL OF these FIRST AND TAKE THE TIME TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INFO
http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module=order_catalog
http://afr.cmgroupmarketing.com/form.php
http://www.brodix.com/catalog/catalog.html
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Perform...6722/ref=pd_bbs_3/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunick...=pd_bbs_3/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/Big-Inch-Chev...f=sr_1_11/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Chevy-S...f=sr_1_47/102-7445206-4788911?ie=UTF8&s=books
READ THRU THESE
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles.php#SBC
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
want a PARTS LIST for a DECENT COMBO,ITS NOT IDEAL FOR STREET USE BUT FOR A WEEKEND TOY IT WORKS REALLY WELL, just have the heads sellected have about 10.7:1 cpr
BE AWARE youll need a high rize hood on some cars due to the manifold/carb height
heads
http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php
intake
( HLY-300-110)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
cam
(crane 110921)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
short block
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... r=SBTP383F
lifters
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... r=651080DL
rockers
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... ber=1106-8
carb
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... er=1563010
nitrous kit
(Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) 02101NOS )
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
use full length 1 3/4" headers and a full 3" exhaust with an (X)
use a manual trans and a 4.11:1 rear gear with a 30 LB steel flywheel, a decent CLUTCH, or a 3000rpm stall conveter
use a 7-8 qt baffled oil pan and moroso windage screen
maybe one of the more computer savy guys can post a desktop dyno curve from engine dyno software results on that combo, but it will produce more power than your likely to be able to use even before you hit the giggle gas