a bit more dur. and a newer design might help

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
flynl said:
Rebuilding a 67 Nova 327 L30 275 HP 3791362 The engine was seized due to rodent infestation and severely corroded.
Pistons expanded so much that a cylinder wall was pushed through,leaving a large hole. I had special ordered it new, and picked it up at dealer in December 1966 Found it by accident in August 2010, and has a lot of sentiment involved. So I've had the damaged bore sleeved, and bores had to go out .060. I have found stock Compression distance pistons,for standard deck height block. Will be down .025 The heads needed the 2.020 valves to repair them. Had them de-shrouded, to flow properly, and seating surface skimmed. So end up around 67 CC's, using a steel shim gasket, with compressed thickness of .015", I figure I'll have around 9.56:1 compression ratio. Have no idea how the factory came up with 10:1 for this motor originally. It was fast for it's time.
It's a 2dr hardtop bench seat 4 speed Saginaw, with 3:55 gears. All original drive train. I'd like a bit better cam than it came with. A bit of old school sound, and perform better also. So my question; "looking for a recommended after market cam to liven it up a bit without an unreasonable idle ". Thanks. :)




since your running a manual transmission and 9.5:1 compression, and 3.55:1 rear gears , in a reasonably light car,I think you can, and probably should select a cam that's a bit more aggressive, and if it was my car Id select erson 1.5:1 roller rockers and an edelbrock air gap intake with a 750 cfm vacume secondary carburetor and long tube headers with a low restriction exhaust, and Id find a 6-7 quart oil pan,(remember the oil pans designed to clear the suspension linkage)
67novaoil.jpg

http://www.classicindustries.com/nova/parts/31060.html

if it was my cars engine ID have the local machine shop check the heads, for cracks and wear and do a valve job and convert the heads to screw in rocker studs if they are currently the older press in design, do a mild port and bowl clean -up , machine the heads for the required clearance, and install decent valve springs and seals that would allow a .600 lift.
Id get RHOADS lifters



YES they click and sound like solids but they have several advantages if you don,t mind the muted clicking at idle.

LUNATI HYDRAULIC CAM

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-1 ... /overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhl-8178/overview/

https://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dic ... ter/sd1005

READ LINKS
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181&hilit=screw+studs

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=401&p=17237&hilit=screw+studs#p17237

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=3124&p=9141&hilit=screw+studs#p9141

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2746&p=7144&hilit=screw+studs#p7144

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1552&p=6067&hilit=rhodes#p6067
 
What's intersting to me is that I had similar issues with mice building homes inside of engines I have put away for long term keeping.
I now keep the Good Engine cores on engine stands & rotate them upside down with the oil pan facing up at you.
I reinstalled the carbs & Factory air cleanres. Mice don't like a home upside down.
No more mice shit & piss on my engines.
Those little Basterds are Destructive SOB's.
 
flynl , your not married to that particular engine, the objects to get a running car you will be proud to drive at the lowest cost and in a reasonable time frame, you don,t necessarily need to use all of the parts from that particular engine as a starting point, we all are forced to work on limited budgets, or forced to learn new skills , think thru your options.
take a few minutes to make a detailed list, of whats required and how youll accomplish the repairs
replacement sbc engines are not difficult to build or find , if you have a place to work, just make a detailed list,of what needs to be fixed or replaced. put the car up on 4 12 ton jack stands and do what you can as your budget allows until you get it in decent shape, trust me Ive had to take years to do similar repairs, on similar projects due to limited budgets
heres a quick tip, you can frequently buy a running car with a chevy v8 that looks like crap or one thats all rusted out or damaged for well under $400 if you look in the local bargain trader and ask around at swap meets etc.
lots of guy fail to think thru their options

read thru the links and sub links

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=7722&p=26767&hilit=plan+logical#p26767

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=9040&p=38048&hilit=+plan+spare#p38048

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=5917&p=18187&hilit=+plan+spare#p18187

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=1162&p=2379&hilit=+plan+spare#p2379

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=775&p=31085&hilit=dream+wasting#p31085
 
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