a few basic concepts

grumpyvette

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Staff member
RULE #1
to consistently win races you need to finish races with the engine still fully functional,
and that generally means keeping piston speeds UNDER 4500 Feet Per Minute even with good aftermarket components and 4000fpm-to-4200fpm with stock or factory high performance parts
just for discussion sake here.....
lets discuss why you factor in piston speeds

Ill point out that the probable strength limitations,
in the 355 block and rotating assembly
(assuming good forged components and ARP main studs are used)
yes as pointed out earlier, both engines below would be pushing well past the limitations imposed by a STOCK, O.E.M. production block
but assuming that the O.E.M block will hold up at least for a hundred 1/4 mile passes,before it comes violently apart at peak rpm, that stress limitation,
will be imposed by both common valve spring limitations and piston speed on the rotating assembly and block,
on a 355 chevy with its 3.48" stroke , (assuming a 4200 fpm max reasonable piston speed)
has a peak rpm near 6700-7200 engine rpm, selecting a cam that peaks below about 6700 rpm-7000 rpm,)
leaves the potential advantage of that shorter stroke the 355 sbc on the table.
this is one reason that the 383 with its longer 3.75" stroke is currently the most popular combo with a 4.30 bore block.
if your going to build a 355, then you may as well take full advantage of the engines potential strong points.
a similar longer stroke 383 would be limited to about 6300 rpm-6700 rpm but the trade off is about 40 ft lbs more torque over most of the potential power band
the formula for hp is
torque x rpm/5252= hp
if both engines make about 1.2 hp per cubic inch
the 383 will peak about 400 rpm lower than the 355 if both are built to maximize the engines potential strong points
just for giggles and to point out
why you maximize a RACE ENGINE potential RPM LIMITS

lets assume the 355 power peak is at about 6800 rpm and,
the similar 383 would be peaking nearer 6400 rpm
if you have 1.2 x 355=426 ft lbs x 6800 rpm /5252=551 hp
if you have 1.2 x 383=460 ft lbs x 6400 rpm /5252=560 hp
Chevy V8 bore & stroke chart
I saw this online and figured I would post it..I am going to add the popular lsx strokers soon
CID BORE STROKE
262 = 3.671" x 3.10" (Gen. I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('55-'57 Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('94-'96 Gen.II, 4.3 liter V-8 "L99", 5.94" rod)
267 = 3.500" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
283 = 3.875" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
293 = 3.779" x 3.27" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LR4" 4.8 Liter Vortec, 6.278" rod)
302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
305 = 3.736" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
325 = 3.779" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LM7", "LS4 front wheel drive V-8" 5.3 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
345 = 3.893" x 3.622" ('97-later, Gen.III, "LS1", 6.098" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" ('96-'01, Gen. I, Vortec, 5.7" rod)
350 = 3.900" x 3.66" ('89-'95, "LT5", in "ZR1" Corvette 32-valve DOHC, 5.74" rod)
364 = 4.000" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LS2", "LQ4" 6.0 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
376 = 4.065" x 3.622" (2007-later, Gen. IV, "L92", Cadillac Escalade, GMC Yukon)
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor, 5.7" rod)
400 = 4.125" x 3.75" (Gen.I, 5.565" rod)
427 = 4.125" x 4.00" (2006 Gen.IV, LS7 SBC, titanium rods)

Two common, non-factory smallblock combinations:

377 = 4.155" x 3.48" (5.7" or 6.00" rod)
400 block and a 350 crank with "spacer" main bearings
383 = 4.030" x 3.75" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank, main bearing crank journals
cut to 350 size

ALL production big blocks used a 6.135" length rod.
CHEVY BIG BLOCK V-8 BORE AND STROKE


366T = 3.935" x 3.76"
396 = 4.096" x 3.76"
402 = 4.125" x 3.76"
427 = 4.250" x 3.76"
427T = 4.250" x 3.76"
454 = 4.250" x 4.00"
477= 4.5" bore x 3.76" stroke
496 = 4.250" x 4.37" (2001 Vortec 8100, 8.1 liter)
502 = 4.466" x 4.00"
557T= 4.5 bore 4.375" stroke
572T = 4.560" x 4.375" (2003 "ZZ572" crate motors)

T = Tall Deck

ALL production big blocks used a 6.135" length rod.
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=510&hilit=redline

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=343&p=1170&hilit=redline#p1170

RULE #2
OIL PRESSURE AND VOLUME and REASONABLE TEMPS MUST BE CONSISTENTLY MAINTAINED

most moving parts failures are related to lack of consistently maintained pressurized lubrication by oil at reasonable temperatures
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RULE #3
to consistently perform well a car must have a high power to weight ratio and be geared to match the engines power curve

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=741

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=7082

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=555

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=9731&p=37718&hilit=take+fast+weight#p37718

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=3404&p=33377&hilit=take+fast+weight#p33377

RULE #4
THINK THRU WHAT YOUR BUDGET AND GOALS , AND PERSONAL SKILLS ARE GOING TO SUPPORT


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I recently had a fairly long and detailed , (and in my mind rather unrealistic) discussion with a guy who wanted to build a 1200 hp turbo big block for use on the street,in a 2006 chevy avalanche 4x4 truck, I kept repeatedly asking why he had that 1200hp goal, and he stated he had weight his truck and it weight about 4200 lbs, and figuring on a 20% drive line loss from fly wheel numbers to rear wheel numbers that would put him in the high to mid 9 second range, as he would have 950-1000 rear wheel hp.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

I then asked why he was so fixated on trying too push a two ton plus truck, with the aerodynamics of a brick wall into the 9 second range, when he could ideally build a far lighter car or truck, at much , MUCH lower cost and potentially break far fewer parts doing it.
honestly, unless you have nearly unlimited cash a bit of planing before you start on a project can save you a ton of cash and disappointment , by thinking thru your goal, and realizing the the lighter the vehicles weight and the more common the components you can use are the more likely you can economically reach your goal.

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