385 Cu.In.
10.5:1 cpr
GM 4 Bolt "010" Block
4.04 Forged SRP pistons -16cc
Eagle Cast 3.75" Crank
Crower 6.0" 4340 I beam rods
Crower Billet Steel ROLLER Cam 254/257 @ .050 .712 lift w/ 1.6 rockers 108* LSA installed at 104*
Jesel Shaft Rockers 1.6:1
PSI Springs 230# closed, 620# open
Super Victor Intake ported to match heads, Fel-Pro 1209
Wilson Manifolds 1.5" carb spacer
Holley HP950 Carb, 79-81 jets, .055 air bleeds all the way around
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor
Custom Stepped headers 1.75 - 1 7/8 - 2"
Iron Eagle Platinum 230cc
Heads CNC'd by M2 Racing 320cfm @ .700 333 cfm @ .800
66cc chambers
42* total timing
110 octane on dyno will run 91 on street
It's a custom billet steel ROLLER cam. Youll need to order one
282/286 adv
254/257 @ .050
.445 lift @ lobe
.712 lift w/ 1.6:1 rockers
108* LSA
104* ICL
Solid Roller
450tq 580hp
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldyno.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/s ... mbers2.jpg
http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml
alot of your choices will be based on your skills, tools, and budget, but you better do your research carefully, many choices will depend on how durable the parts selected are and if youll use a carb. or efi and limitations like if its got a stock stall converter and an auto trans or a manual trans and the rear gear ratio.
I can easily give you a proven list of parts that will get you 400 plus hp from a 383 sbc but you might not find the combo as street friendly or compatible, with your driving style, or with your current drive train gearing.
keep in mind 400 flywheel hp is different than 400 hp at the pavement and that the heads, cam and compression ratio you select need to be matched to the rpm range and drive train gearing for a combo to function correctly
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1598&p=3766#p3766
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=1162&p=2379&hilit=+spare#p2379
now alot of guys instantly start pushing VORTEC heads as a cheap option, and in some cases thats a valid choice, but without thinking thru the total package and its intended power range that might be a BAD choice, limiting your potential.
THE smart option is to build a SECOND performance engine , on an engine stand in your garage or Ive even seen it done in a utility room,slowly and carefully built, using decent cost effective components while you drive your current car, and once the second engines complete, and had a test run, you take some weekend and swap engines, thus the original engine is your spare so if you screw up you've got a fall back position and in a single weekend you can be driving a basically stock , dependable transportation option should your dream engine fail or need work, and youll have a great deal less down time waiting on machine shops and parts deliveries
10.5:1 cpr
GM 4 Bolt "010" Block
4.04 Forged SRP pistons -16cc
Eagle Cast 3.75" Crank
Crower 6.0" 4340 I beam rods
Crower Billet Steel ROLLER Cam 254/257 @ .050 .712 lift w/ 1.6 rockers 108* LSA installed at 104*
Jesel Shaft Rockers 1.6:1
PSI Springs 230# closed, 620# open
Super Victor Intake ported to match heads, Fel-Pro 1209
Wilson Manifolds 1.5" carb spacer
Holley HP950 Carb, 79-81 jets, .055 air bleeds all the way around
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor
Custom Stepped headers 1.75 - 1 7/8 - 2"
Iron Eagle Platinum 230cc
Heads CNC'd by M2 Racing 320cfm @ .700 333 cfm @ .800
66cc chambers
42* total timing
110 octane on dyno will run 91 on street
It's a custom billet steel ROLLER cam. Youll need to order one
282/286 adv
254/257 @ .050
.445 lift @ lobe
.712 lift w/ 1.6:1 rockers
108* LSA
104* ICL
Solid Roller
450tq 580hp
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldyno.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/s ... mbers2.jpg
http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml
alot of your choices will be based on your skills, tools, and budget, but you better do your research carefully, many choices will depend on how durable the parts selected are and if youll use a carb. or efi and limitations like if its got a stock stall converter and an auto trans or a manual trans and the rear gear ratio.
I can easily give you a proven list of parts that will get you 400 plus hp from a 383 sbc but you might not find the combo as street friendly or compatible, with your driving style, or with your current drive train gearing.
keep in mind 400 flywheel hp is different than 400 hp at the pavement and that the heads, cam and compression ratio you select need to be matched to the rpm range and drive train gearing for a combo to function correctly
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1598&p=3766#p3766
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=1162&p=2379&hilit=+spare#p2379
now alot of guys instantly start pushing VORTEC heads as a cheap option, and in some cases thats a valid choice, but without thinking thru the total package and its intended power range that might be a BAD choice, limiting your potential.
THE smart option is to build a SECOND performance engine , on an engine stand in your garage or Ive even seen it done in a utility room,slowly and carefully built, using decent cost effective components while you drive your current car, and once the second engines complete, and had a test run, you take some weekend and swap engines, thus the original engine is your spare so if you screw up you've got a fall back position and in a single weekend you can be driving a basically stock , dependable transportation option should your dream engine fail or need work, and youll have a great deal less down time waiting on machine shops and parts deliveries