a tip on washing your cars engine/engine bay

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
autowiz said:
I like to goto the self service car wash in the evening hours when the hot Florida sun is not overhead.

I park my car with the engine right over the drain in one of the self serve wash bays. It takes me about 10 minutes or so to get there so the engine has fully warmed and the engine bay has heat soaked to it's normal running temperature. I will raise the hood, remove the battery ground cable and then throw some coins or dollars in the pressure washer.

Sometimes I might bring a can of engine degreaser. Sometimes I might spray the engine degreaser on before I drive or on the way to the car wash so it has time with heat to work. There is a thing about time and heat and the engine will begin to cool from the time we shut it off and more so as we quench it with water. We want there to be warmth left to the motor after we are done cleaning.

Then after the motor is washed and rinsed down I like to kill 10 minutes and let the water have a chance to evaporate and dry before I reconnect the battery.

The engine gets wet when we drive in the rain. The fans pull water that is already coming at your radiator and blast it across your engine. The alternator must be able to tolerate this. The problems you will get will come from standing water creating electrical shorts because water conducts electricity. So long as the motor is warm before you start and you finish in 5 or 10 minutes from turning the car off, there should be plenty of heat left to dry everything without any disassembly past the battery ground terminal.

The ECM is sealed. Of course I would not directly blast it with water anyways. But at least when the ECM is in the connectors and all of their pins are protected from the corrosive water, ya know? In the middle of a big service and with everything cold it sounds like you will work harder to make things clean all the way around. First to get the grease and grime loose and then to get things dry without the water spots. Heat from a running engine really helps out with this task, IMHO.
 
Man%20Washing%20His%20Car%20at%20a%20Self%20Service%20Car%20Wash.jpg

getting the engine warm, disconnecting the battery before you soak the engine with solvent and spraying it clean and use of
a couple spray bottles and purple power crud solvent mixed 50%/50% with water helps a great deal, let the previously well warmed engine, dry itself off for maybe 10 minutes before reconnecting the battery, obviously try hard to avoid spraying electronics
shopping


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05646257-4ee3-4b2f-b84e-d7acc58fda0f_1.97c98708610e2af14260a42c847bf023.jpeg

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Around 1973 I had just traded for the 61 Vette and I worked in the garage at the Oklahoma Gas & Electric company as a Tire Buster. I had access to the wash bay that had a single lift post for raising one end of their line trucks equipped with a power washer.

So I raised the Vette until the back bumper was nearly touching the ground, grab a crepper, face shield, rubber apron and prepared to get really wet. When I got done I could see the over spray paint on the floor boards and NO MORE dirt feel in my face while working under the car.

Below is the correct color and year, I traded a 64 Nova and $400 for the car. About 1976 I sold it for $2000 while I was going to college, since my dad was paying for my attendance. Bought a 67 Chevelle for transportation.

61Vette.jpg
 
I bet you regret selling every vette you ever owned I know I sure do!
 
Since buying my cheap HF power washer, I’m looking at your engine bay washing tips, including the use of “purple power, “ with new eyes.

Let’s just say I am getting a bit nervous using my pressure washer on my 84 C4. Obviously not interested in causing serious damage wet saturating anything vulnerable, but there is a significant amount of dirt and grime that is obscuring where some engine oil leaks are coming from. Yes I can plastic bag the alternator, intake, distributor, the electrical things on the firewall, plastic wrap plug wires and plugs best as I can. but there are too many things to go wrong, even with a wide spray pattern 1.5-3 feet away. Also no air compressor or leaf blower to help.

So maybe I will just use a degreaser, mechanical brush and rinse off with normal garden hose power.

But this power washer should be able to be used for something on the car besides foaming and rinsing the paint. So, do I need to be concerned about using it on the aluminum suspension parts, wheel wells and and brakes? My earlier attempts at cleaning this area with a brush and Simple Green soap only improved it somewhat. I just greased all the joints a few weeks ago and wonder if those fittings will be violated.
 
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