alternators

[grumpyvette]

understanding_alternators.

youll need a decent V.O.M. meter to test with, if the engines at idle you should
get between 13.5-14.8V (DCV) anything under or over that the Alt. or voltage regulator is defective.
if the cars off the battery disconnected should show 12volts-13 volts.
If your multi- meter shows less than 13.7 volts while the engines held at 1200rpm,that tends to make me think the alternators rather worn or the voltage regulators shot! or the battery's defective and youll need to test carefully to determine the cause. once the engine reaches about 1200rpm you should see a rather constant 13.7-14.8 volts even with a rather depleted but functional, battery.
I can assure you that swapping from a 110 amp alternator to a 200 amp alternator on my 1985 corvette made a huge difference in the way the car runs and the strength of the ignition spark

I learned decades ago to swap to a 140 amp-200 amp alternator,
as the stock 75-105 amp alternators on muscle cars and earlier corvettes are marginal at best/
if you shop carefully they can usually be found locally at some alternator re-builders for under $150
both my corvettes have 200 amp versions purchased NEW for under $250
while that may be over-kill to some I find the electric fans on the corvette and ignition and head lights work noticeably better
every mechanic needs an ANALOG multi meter for testing capacitors with a micro farad scale, AND a DIGITAL MULTI METER

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=63&p=3403&hilit=vats#p3403

use of a shop manual and multi meter can be very helpful
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-alternator-140-amp-chrome-power-master-1969-1982.html

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4516-high-output-chevy-3-wire-alternator-140-amp-65-85.aspx

viewtopic.php?f=48&t=10003&p=43220&hilit=test+alternator#p43220

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575#p8575

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1169&p=2392&hilit=test+alternator#p2392

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=986&p=2671&hilit=test+alternator#p2671

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=808&p=2957&hilit=test+alternator#p2957

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=63&p=5446&hilit=test+alternator#p5446

http://alternatorparts.com/cs-144-special-offer.html

http://www.summitracing.com/search?Sort ... alternator


http://www.alternatorparts.com/understa ... nators.htm

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575#p8575

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... wire.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... sing.shtml

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech ... sing.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... remy.shtml

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=3098&p=8249#p8249

http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS-144_Special_offer.htm

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/newhtml/smallalt.html

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/alternator.htm/printable

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uI0SBtmS ... re=related

http://www.misterfixit.com/alterntr.htm

http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternators.htm

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx

1988-91 CORVETTE 200 AMP

THE 1984-85 CORVETTES TAKES A PART NUMBER # 7864 THAT COSTS $229 AND PUTS OUT 200 AMPS

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5TkStVW ... re=related

The excitor wire on # 1 terminal of the alternator starts the alternator charging on a 10 or 12si.

If it's a cs130, the "L" terminal is connected to the indicator lamp.

heres a 200 amp alt for the 88-91 corvettes
IT COMES WITH INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
I installed on in my 1985 corvette and it made a significant improvement,
in the cooling fan speed and ignition spark strength, smoothing the idle.
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx

800-753-2242
they are knowledgeable and if you ask questions before buying youll have zero problems

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx

http://stores.ebay.com/Motor-City-Reman ... ation.html

Output at idle = 105 amps.

Maximum output of 200+ amps is achieved at 1200 engine rpm.

For safety, you must your main charging wire between alternator and battery positive to a 4 gauge cable to allow maximum charging current.

 

[grumpyvette]

connecting a 0ne wire alternator on your corvette

Unique Charging Feature
A one wire alternator has a turn on point (sometimes called "cut in", which is typically about 1200 engine RPM). We have developed rotor poles and stator stacks that carry a higher magnetism thus providing an instant regulator cut in without engine acceleration. All of our 1-wire alternators are manufactured with this exclusive low cut in feature at 880 engine RPM which is much lower than any other alternator (of its type) sold. This is the speed where the internal sense circuitry connects the battery to the voltage regulator, thereby turning the alternator on. Once the voltage regulator turns on, the alternator will remain on and charging until the engine comes to a complete stop.
just a point many guys seem to over look, the fans run on electricity and a higher amp capacity alternator provides a good deal more current to spin those cooling fans, Ive seen several cars with marginal cooling that had that cooling issue disappear once a 160-200 amp alternator replaced the stock alternator, the increased current allowed the cooling fans to spin a good deal faster at low engine speeds and the result was more efficient cooling.

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... wire.shtml

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech ... sing.shtml


http://www.alternatorparts.com/what_is_ ... rnator.htm

http://store.alternatorparts.com/se-590 ... irkit.aspx

http://oljeep.com/AltTheory17/Alternato ... onnections

http://www.classictruckshop.com/one_wire.php

http://mightymo.org/Proj_OneWire.html

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Alterna ... rsions.htm

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Reusing ... gPlugs.htm

look its just not that difficult, youll need to run a new red battery cable from the one wire alternator hot lead to the battery pos (red) and hook up the other leads, the new heavier lead routes part of the power produced directly with a low resistance path to the battery pos.

 

[grumpyvette]

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

IM always amazed at the lack of research many guys do before purchasing components, who then are stunned and amazed to find that those components won,t work correctly without further upgrades to the electrical system, and can,t figure out why the battery drains .
example
you decide you need a 800 watt sound system and your installing it in your car when the tech suggests you might want to install a larger more powerful alternator.......IS he correct? do you need one?



http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/AutoSound.shtml

http://caraudiomag.com/articles/basics-charging-systems

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv66sP9EXvQ

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UAZgEGOb9Z ... tml?page=5


Converting Watts to Amps

http://www.powerstream.com/Amps-Watts.htm

The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

so 800 watts/12 volts =67 amps

now its a sure bet that the stock alternator that puts out about 90-110 amps (depends on year) and that the basic electrical system requires almost that current flow to function,without the additional equipment additions,will require an upgrade!
so yes! only an optimist would even think, for an instant that the stock alternator would keep up with the increased current draw, of that 800 amp sound system, the tech guys who are bound to suggest a larger alternator be installed are correct, you'll want to install a 200 amp alternator like the one linked to above in this thread
the high output alternator will require a larger gauge cable between the alternator power out and the battery positive terminal and adding an additional larger gauge ground to the engine/frame/battery negative sure won,t hurt

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... wire.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/1-0.shtml

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/highoutput.html

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/gmcs144.html

http://www.startersalternators.com/prod ... 8273_d_200