I have a ruptured brake line due to corrosion making a weak spot. My choices are 1) Take out all lines and ship them to this company that will copy and send them back at a charge of $329 plus what-ever. This would put the truck out of service for about 2 weeks (note, this company makes brake and fuel lines for GM and maybe others but of all the models they have in stock and have specs for - they don't have anything for a 2006 short-bed crew cab. I'm not thrilled about paying for shipping and then they have a free model to keep the specs for and the next guy doesn't have to ship his lines).
2) Replace lines myself. I made fuel lines and lots of residential A/C lines so this brake line shouldn't be a big deal. (no, these lines are not available at the dealers).
3) Going out on a limb here asking but I have to, Can a cut and splice in the line work? example: cut out the bad area and flare both ends with the fittings on first and tighten everything back together? The only problem I see is the space in which to work maybe too tight to get straight cuts and flare tooling.
Can I make these lines out of copper or steel, both are the same price for a 25 ft. coil. (between $21 NiCopper at NAPA and $25 for steel at Eastwood, includes fittings for master cyl. and caliper ends.) Does it make any difference?
More to come - Bleeding this line maybe a can of worms! each line goes to a central box with all lines coming in and on the other side the line goes back to the master. It doesn't seem like a good job to use my Phoenix Reverse pump but rather use the traditional way and pump the brakes at each wheel. That central box/splitter may mean bleeding the whole system and not just for one wheel?
2) Replace lines myself. I made fuel lines and lots of residential A/C lines so this brake line shouldn't be a big deal. (no, these lines are not available at the dealers).
3) Going out on a limb here asking but I have to, Can a cut and splice in the line work? example: cut out the bad area and flare both ends with the fittings on first and tighten everything back together? The only problem I see is the space in which to work maybe too tight to get straight cuts and flare tooling.
Can I make these lines out of copper or steel, both are the same price for a 25 ft. coil. (between $21 NiCopper at NAPA and $25 for steel at Eastwood, includes fittings for master cyl. and caliper ends.) Does it make any difference?
More to come - Bleeding this line maybe a can of worms! each line goes to a central box with all lines coming in and on the other side the line goes back to the master. It doesn't seem like a good job to use my Phoenix Reverse pump but rather use the traditional way and pump the brakes at each wheel. That central box/splitter may mean bleeding the whole system and not just for one wheel?
