Buzzing Noise

G

grestmit92

Member
I was driving my 92 Vette back home from work and a high pitch buzzing noise started up. I got home went to roll up the windows, nothing. After messing around with these problems I noticed that the buzzing noise is coming from the ignition switch. I can wiggle it around and the pitch of the noise changes, which tells me that the problem might be there. But that doesn't control the windows, does it? The more I mess with this headache the buzzing now does not stop, even when the key is removed. The only way to get it to stop is to disconnect the battery. It almost sounds like the battery is going dead, but I can start the engine really easy. Going over the manual I bought for that Vette, I found out the buzzing noise is coming from a part called a buzzer switch that is in the steering column that , I think wires up too the ignition switch. But I still don't know what it is for nor do I know why the windows don't go back up. I did manage to get the driver side widow to go up, but real slow. No fuses are burned out. Still in need of some suggestions. I don't know what to do. Any body have any thoughts? Is there a way to get the other window up since no juice is getting to it. The weather is still iffy around here and I can't put it in a garage.
 
Thank you for getting back to my problem. I'll be checking out what you have posted, but if you say that it was a good probability that they were not related, it sure is remarkable that they happened at the same time. As the buzzing noise started half way out the driveway from work and when I get home the windows won't go up. Some coincidental occurrence. I just replaced the right side window regulator and switch last August.
 
OBVIOUSLY, not being able to actually hear the noise and where its located is a big handicap in diagnosing this, and the buzzing may be caused by a loose electrical connector connection arcing.
Id be looking thru the SHOP MANUAL
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=103

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2072

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=3110&p=12074&hilit=multi+meter#p12074

http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-power-w ... -1996.html

http://www.ecklers.com/catalogsearch/re ... r&x=43&y=7

the chances are very good that the window problem has nothing to do with the ignition or steering column, you'll want to read thru the threads above and verify but chances are good its a switch, or an electrical connection or a bad window regulator.
as most of us who work on cars know chasing minor electrical glitches is a P.I.T.A. and it helps a good deal to have at least a minimal quality multi meter and test leads, and a scan tool, that can be used to, locate isolate and test THRU insulation on wires, and a tool to pull trouble codes and do minimal programing.

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http://www.amazon.com/AutoXray-6000-EZ- ... cr_pr_pb_t

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http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Digital ... ?PID=55990

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http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-dig ... 98674.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digi ... 37772.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automo ... 95670.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function ... 90899.html
these are WORTHLESS in my opinion, they seldom work or work long, or give consistent info
 
I looked in the manual and it looks like what the diagram shows is a buzzer switch located next to the ignition switch in the column. The noise is definitely coming from the same location. I just don't know what it is for. I am assuming it is a warning for something. But what? :? Also, is there a way to get the window up with out the regulator motor working? It is going to rain here for a few days.
 
getting the window up is most likely going to require partial dis-assembly of the door to get access to the window and regulator
the links I posted early in the thread show how thats done and while it appears to be a huge job to some of the newer guys its really fairly simple and not that difficult.

you might be able to lift the window into place and duct tape it if your just waiting on parts, but in many cases the regulator slide points are broken or the motor or switches need to be replaced, read the links provided earlier, chances are good that the problem source is located in the DOOR so thats what you need to DIS-ASSEMBLE AND INSPECT
btw the most common electrically related problem I see on a consistent basis is corroded or badly rusted or defective battery connections and grounds so before you go crazy its a good idea to replace those as a first step in any electrical problem diagnoses

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Thank God for small miracles, I pulled the passenger door apart to see what was wrong with the windows not working. I found, to my surprise, the wires that go to the motor were being pinched to the point of getting cut. So I repaired it and not only did that work, it also got rid of the buzzing sound coming from the steering column. Today was a good day!!! :D
 
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