http://www.genuinebowerbearings.com/dow ... 0Range.pdf
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/Brakes/ ... rings.html
http://www.corvettepartsblog.com/corvet ... ssemblies/
http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-wheel-h ... -1996.html
http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-hub-and ... -1996.html
http://mibearings.com/Replace-Wheel-Bea ... embly.html
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/Brakes/ ... ement.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/Brakes/ ... rings.html
http://www.corvettewheelbearings.com/Ch ... index.html
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetail ... .aspx?gid={0b519fb4-4470-45b5-9f64-490375bffba5}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&GroupName=Wheel+Bearings&
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/index.php ... 5f6de9ce0f
scorp posted this info on the c4 vette bearings
"Your best bet for the rear bearings is Pepboys @ $139.99 with a lifetime replacement warranty. They are Timkin bearings which are the same thing you'd get from GM.
The job isn't that bad. You will need a 36mm socket (usually can rent them for ~$15 if you don't have one) and I think a T-45 or T-55 socket.
1. Jack up one side of the car
2. Remove the wheel
3. Unhook emergency brake cable with a flat screwdriver
4. Remove caliper and hang it out of the way (I think 19mm wrenches)
5. Remove rotor and toss it for the dog to catch
6. Remove cotter pin from spindle
7. Remove small castle looking cover thingy from spindle
8. Remove 36mm nut with impact gun or by hand
9. Remove 3 T-45 (or T-55) bolts from rear of knuckle
10. Pull entire hub assembly straight off of the car.
Use a QUALITY Torx bit like the high end ones from Snap-On. its a real ***** when you strip or break a bit in the middle of doing this. The torx bolts are sort of a pain to get to with the halfshaft in place, but you can get at them easier if you use a 3/8" drive wrench with a 6" or 12" extension on it.
Upon reassembly use a new cotter pin and the Torx bolts should be I think 60 ft/lb and the 36mm nut 164 ft/lb for an automatic or 200 ft/lb for a stick car.
Don't lose the big washer that is behind the 36mm nut, many don't notice it and accidently throw it away as it is very thin.
While you have the bearing assembly off I would grease up the splines on the spindle. Either pack them full of antiseize or some chassis grease. As the car gets older the spindle splines get surface rust on them and can cause "clicking" from a stop that can be misunderstood as u-joints.
Also.... when a wheel bearing goes a lot of times it takes the outer u-joint with it. Inspect those and replace if necessary.
Good luck! "
1995: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings
Submitted by: nelsonvette
Just wanted to post this now while it was still fresh in my mind. Replacing a rear wheel bearing is not that bad of a job. I read some post before I did mine that made me believe it may be a lot tougher than it really was. Mine is a 95 coupe.
The day before I did the job I jacked it up and took the wheel off. Sprayed WD40 on the Spindle Hub bolt and on the threads of the 3 torx bolts, you can see them behind the hub, I put a drip pan under the wheel and used a lot of WD40.
Tools I used for the job were a craftsman 1\2" breaker bar with a 36MM socket for the spindle nut. 10" 3/8 extension. 3/8 universal. 3' and 1' section of iron 1" pipe. 10MM and 18MM socket. T55 Torx. Flashlight.
I used a 3 foot section of 1" pipe to extend the breaker bar, (got an offcut of pipe at Home Depot for 78 cents. It was 4 foot when I bought it but I had to cut off 1 foot to use on the rachet under the car for the torx bolts), a 10" long 3/8" extension with a universal and a #T55 Torx, 10MM socket for the Speed sensor and 18MM for the brake caliper.
Removed it as follows.
I removed the cotter pin and spindle nut retainer cap. I had my wife get in the car and start it up then apply the brakes. I used the breaker bar with the 36MM socket and the 3 foot pipe and the spindle nut came loose with one good tug.
I then turned the car off and blocked the front tires and jacked the other side of the car so both rear wheels were off the ground. Used jack stands to support. Put the car in neutral. Removed the brake caliper and the rotor. Removed the speed sensor (1 10MM bolt). Got under the car with a flashlight and removed the 3 torx bolts. This was the most difficult part.
The 10" extension with the universal and a 12" pipe extender on your rachet is a must have. You will need to turn the wheel to move the half shaft to gain access to the torx bolts thats why both wheels are off the ground and car is in neutral. Once you get the 3 torx out you can pry the hub off with a flathead screwdriver.
When I put the new hub back on I used a dead blow mallet to tap on the new hub. Getting the first torx in is challenging to get it lined up but I was able to do it by myself, Tighten everything up to specs. 66 ft lbs on the torx and about 170ft lbs on the spindle nut.
so have a big dead blow mallet handy.
http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-t ... tallation/
http://www.performancechoice.com/pc.html?frame=5.9316
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/Brakes/ ... rings.html
http://www.corvettepartsblog.com/corvet ... ssemblies/
http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-wheel-h ... -1996.html
http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-hub-and ... -1996.html
http://mibearings.com/Replace-Wheel-Bea ... embly.html
http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/Brakes/ ... ement.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/Brakes/ ... rings.html
http://www.corvettewheelbearings.com/Ch ... index.html
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetail ... .aspx?gid={0b519fb4-4470-45b5-9f64-490375bffba5}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&GroupName=Wheel+Bearings&
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/index.php ... 5f6de9ce0f
scorp posted this info on the c4 vette bearings
"Your best bet for the rear bearings is Pepboys @ $139.99 with a lifetime replacement warranty. They are Timkin bearings which are the same thing you'd get from GM.
The job isn't that bad. You will need a 36mm socket (usually can rent them for ~$15 if you don't have one) and I think a T-45 or T-55 socket.
1. Jack up one side of the car
2. Remove the wheel
3. Unhook emergency brake cable with a flat screwdriver
4. Remove caliper and hang it out of the way (I think 19mm wrenches)
5. Remove rotor and toss it for the dog to catch
6. Remove cotter pin from spindle
7. Remove small castle looking cover thingy from spindle
8. Remove 36mm nut with impact gun or by hand
9. Remove 3 T-45 (or T-55) bolts from rear of knuckle
10. Pull entire hub assembly straight off of the car.
Use a QUALITY Torx bit like the high end ones from Snap-On. its a real ***** when you strip or break a bit in the middle of doing this. The torx bolts are sort of a pain to get to with the halfshaft in place, but you can get at them easier if you use a 3/8" drive wrench with a 6" or 12" extension on it.
Upon reassembly use a new cotter pin and the Torx bolts should be I think 60 ft/lb and the 36mm nut 164 ft/lb for an automatic or 200 ft/lb for a stick car.
Don't lose the big washer that is behind the 36mm nut, many don't notice it and accidently throw it away as it is very thin.
While you have the bearing assembly off I would grease up the splines on the spindle. Either pack them full of antiseize or some chassis grease. As the car gets older the spindle splines get surface rust on them and can cause "clicking" from a stop that can be misunderstood as u-joints.
Also.... when a wheel bearing goes a lot of times it takes the outer u-joint with it. Inspect those and replace if necessary.
Good luck! "
1995: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings
Submitted by: nelsonvette
Just wanted to post this now while it was still fresh in my mind. Replacing a rear wheel bearing is not that bad of a job. I read some post before I did mine that made me believe it may be a lot tougher than it really was. Mine is a 95 coupe.
The day before I did the job I jacked it up and took the wheel off. Sprayed WD40 on the Spindle Hub bolt and on the threads of the 3 torx bolts, you can see them behind the hub, I put a drip pan under the wheel and used a lot of WD40.
Tools I used for the job were a craftsman 1\2" breaker bar with a 36MM socket for the spindle nut. 10" 3/8 extension. 3/8 universal. 3' and 1' section of iron 1" pipe. 10MM and 18MM socket. T55 Torx. Flashlight.
I used a 3 foot section of 1" pipe to extend the breaker bar, (got an offcut of pipe at Home Depot for 78 cents. It was 4 foot when I bought it but I had to cut off 1 foot to use on the rachet under the car for the torx bolts), a 10" long 3/8" extension with a universal and a #T55 Torx, 10MM socket for the Speed sensor and 18MM for the brake caliper.
Removed it as follows.
I removed the cotter pin and spindle nut retainer cap. I had my wife get in the car and start it up then apply the brakes. I used the breaker bar with the 36MM socket and the 3 foot pipe and the spindle nut came loose with one good tug.
I then turned the car off and blocked the front tires and jacked the other side of the car so both rear wheels were off the ground. Used jack stands to support. Put the car in neutral. Removed the brake caliper and the rotor. Removed the speed sensor (1 10MM bolt). Got under the car with a flashlight and removed the 3 torx bolts. This was the most difficult part.
The 10" extension with the universal and a 12" pipe extender on your rachet is a must have. You will need to turn the wheel to move the half shaft to gain access to the torx bolts thats why both wheels are off the ground and car is in neutral. Once you get the 3 torx out you can pry the hub off with a flathead screwdriver.
When I put the new hub back on I used a dead blow mallet to tap on the new hub. Getting the first torx in is challenging to get it lined up but I was able to do it by myself, Tighten everything up to specs. 66 ft lbs on the torx and about 170ft lbs on the spindle nut.
so have a big dead blow mallet handy.
http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-t ... tallation/
http://www.performancechoice.com/pc.html?frame=5.9316
Last edited by a moderator:
