just some info too think thru
the engines state of tune effects the heat generated, vacuum leaks tend to increase heat, octane used effects the heat, your ignition timing curve effects the heat
the type of coolant effects the rate heats transfered
the amount and type of oil effects the temp transfer rates
a larger oil filter, and larger capacity baffeled oil pan, tends to reduce temps due to exposing a larger surface area to the air flow
anything that reduces airflow thru the radiator reduces its efficiency
the water pump and T-stat both effect the rate heats transfered, high flow water pumps can help
the electric fans work off a sensor and the temp they turn on at can be modified, larger or additional electrical fans can be added
on an auto trans car,the transmission fluid adds a good deal of heat to the radiator, adding a seperate ADDITIONAL trans cooler with a seperate ellectric fan,removes a good deal of the load from the radiator
oil in the engine flowing over parts absorbs and transfers heat , having a larger baffled oil pan hanging down in the airflow under the engine helps cool the engine
http://www.zip-corvette.com/Zip/product ... E93AE993E8
headers remove heat faster than stock exhaust manifolds
aftermarket aluminum radiators can be far more efficient
the dia. of the pullies your using does effect the coolant flow
running the correct T-stat can help cooling, generally the 180F-190F is the best compromize
http://www.becool.com/
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categoryresults.asp?catID=19
http://www.kevko.net/images/1090_full.gif
http://www.kevko.net/wetsump_chevy.htm
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/?source=overture
engine oil needs to reach and stay at about 215F-240f to lube and clean correctly and burn off moisture
trans fluid I try to keep under 160F,surely below 180F ,
Ideally I try to keep engine coolant in the engine in the 190F-200F range but don,t get overly worried below 230F. BTW I run a 190F t-stat, temp ranges should be kept within these ranges or the wear and emmissions won,t give you the long engine and trans life and low emmission levels you expect , drop the coolant temps lower and you may gain a few hp but the wear tends to get worse as the fluids can,t opperate correctly, drop the oil temp below 211 F and acids can form in the oil (bad for bearings)
https://www.speedcooling.com/1984-1989-Corvette-C4-Aluminum-Radiator.html
DON,T OVER COOL YOUR ENGINE!
it takes approximately 214F-215F to burn all the moisture out of oil, that moisture comes from outside air when the engine cools and from combustion when the engines not up too temp. and can form acids and rust if it sits, if your cars driven frequently IE it seldom sits for several days at a time your unlikely to have significant moisture forming, especially if the cars garaged most of the time its not in use.
short trips seldom allow the engine to fully reach a stable temp, the state of tune,the outside temps, the amount and type of oil and the temp switch on the fans , the T-STAT, allow or prevent the oil reaching full temp,the RPMS and LOADS the enge sees effects the temps
If you drive the car frequently and seldom let it sit for days at a time AND change oil fairly regularly (3000-4500 miles between changes) you may be fine with the slightly lower temps ,especially if the cars garaged but you can easily check the condition of your engine, pull a valve cover and inspect its inside surface carefully, it should be clean, possiably stained but not have minor acid etching and there should be no sludge , build up,or chocolate milk or waxey film, if there is your engines not running hot enought or your not changing the oil,filter ETC. frequently
to raise temp install a 190F-200F T-stat, oil temp generally runs 15F-25F higher than COOLANT temps
the engines state of tune effects the heat generated, vacuum leaks tend to increase heat, octane used effects the heat, your ignition timing curve effects the heat
the type of coolant effects the rate heats transfered
the amount and type of oil effects the temp transfer rates
a larger oil filter, and larger capacity baffeled oil pan, tends to reduce temps due to exposing a larger surface area to the air flow
anything that reduces airflow thru the radiator reduces its efficiency
the water pump and T-stat both effect the rate heats transfered, high flow water pumps can help
the electric fans work off a sensor and the temp they turn on at can be modified, larger or additional electrical fans can be added
on an auto trans car,the transmission fluid adds a good deal of heat to the radiator, adding a seperate ADDITIONAL trans cooler with a seperate ellectric fan,removes a good deal of the load from the radiator
oil in the engine flowing over parts absorbs and transfers heat , having a larger baffled oil pan hanging down in the airflow under the engine helps cool the engine
http://www.zip-corvette.com/Zip/product ... E93AE993E8
headers remove heat faster than stock exhaust manifolds
aftermarket aluminum radiators can be far more efficient
the dia. of the pullies your using does effect the coolant flow
running the correct T-stat can help cooling, generally the 180F-190F is the best compromize
http://www.becool.com/
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categoryresults.asp?catID=19
http://www.kevko.net/images/1090_full.gif
http://www.kevko.net/wetsump_chevy.htm
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/?source=overture
engine oil needs to reach and stay at about 215F-240f to lube and clean correctly and burn off moisture
trans fluid I try to keep under 160F,surely below 180F ,
Ideally I try to keep engine coolant in the engine in the 190F-200F range but don,t get overly worried below 230F. BTW I run a 190F t-stat, temp ranges should be kept within these ranges or the wear and emmissions won,t give you the long engine and trans life and low emmission levels you expect , drop the coolant temps lower and you may gain a few hp but the wear tends to get worse as the fluids can,t opperate correctly, drop the oil temp below 211 F and acids can form in the oil (bad for bearings)
https://www.speedcooling.com/1984-1989-Corvette-C4-Aluminum-Radiator.html
DON,T OVER COOL YOUR ENGINE!
it takes approximately 214F-215F to burn all the moisture out of oil, that moisture comes from outside air when the engine cools and from combustion when the engines not up too temp. and can form acids and rust if it sits, if your cars driven frequently IE it seldom sits for several days at a time your unlikely to have significant moisture forming, especially if the cars garaged most of the time its not in use.
short trips seldom allow the engine to fully reach a stable temp, the state of tune,the outside temps, the amount and type of oil and the temp switch on the fans , the T-STAT, allow or prevent the oil reaching full temp,the RPMS and LOADS the enge sees effects the temps
If you drive the car frequently and seldom let it sit for days at a time AND change oil fairly regularly (3000-4500 miles between changes) you may be fine with the slightly lower temps ,especially if the cars garaged but you can easily check the condition of your engine, pull a valve cover and inspect its inside surface carefully, it should be clean, possiably stained but not have minor acid etching and there should be no sludge , build up,or chocolate milk or waxey film, if there is your engines not running hot enought or your not changing the oil,filter ETC. frequently
to raise temp install a 190F-200F T-stat, oil temp generally runs 15F-25F higher than COOLANT temps
Last edited by a moderator: