If youve installed a significantly more powerful engine in your car its almost mandatory to upgrade the cooling system, a larger oil pan, oil cooler, transmission cooler etc. all help dissipate the increased heat produced, and a larger radiator (preferably a multi pass aluminum aftermarket design) will help a good deal if its got the proper duct work and fans, Ample water pump flow rates, significant coolant volume, adequate retention time in the radiator to allow the coolant to transfer its heat, to the air flow, adequate airflow thru the radiator to absorb the heat are the key, factors in most cases,. Alum rads are more efficient, than the typical stock (sometimes even plastic radiators,) Id also point out that coolant temps of 220F are nothing to get crazy over with a car sitting still, the radiator could obviously use more air flow and a more effective fan and duct work will help, your generally not going to have any problems if that 220F-230F in coolant temps is rarely exceeded, especially if it drops rapidly once your moving the car, before I added a transmission cooler my corvette almost always ran at 195f-210f coolant temps and oil temps in the 210f-235f range under hard driving and easily jumped up a few degrees in traffic.
adding an oil cooler also keeps the engine temps top low for too long so I only run the trans cooler now
but ID point out that almost all the hotter components in an engine are cooled by OIL FLOW and the OIL after its absorbed most of the heat transfers some of that heat to the coolant as it flows back to the sump, so an OIL COOLER and a 7-8 quart BAFFLED OIL PAN will go a long way to LOWERING the ENGINES total temperatures, the radiator needs to deal with, its not at all unusual to drop engine temperatures by 20 degrees with a 7-8 qt baffled oil pan and an oil cooler added to the engines oil system
ID also suggest drilling 8 1/8" holes in the T-STAT flange so any trapped air will circulate and exit the system and you ALWAYS have at least minimal coolant flow
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viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1540
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this looks very typical of engine swap cooling systems
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-440/?rtype=10
read this
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003 ... /index.php
example heres a sbc swapped into a 240z that was running a bit warm, looking at the set-up,
personally I think adding twin pusher fans since youve obviously got the room required is a no brainer here!
Id also check the amps and voltage at the pull fan, as its very common for those electric motors to either be less than up to the job of pulling enough air flow or your alternator to be putting out less than the required power levels to spin the fan to its FULL potential, Ive cured several marginal cooling engines that ran electric fans problems with a swap to a 200 amp alternator
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/
adding an oil cooler also keeps the engine temps top low for too long so I only run the trans cooler now
but ID point out that almost all the hotter components in an engine are cooled by OIL FLOW and the OIL after its absorbed most of the heat transfers some of that heat to the coolant as it flows back to the sump, so an OIL COOLER and a 7-8 quart BAFFLED OIL PAN will go a long way to LOWERING the ENGINES total temperatures, the radiator needs to deal with, its not at all unusual to drop engine temperatures by 20 degrees with a 7-8 qt baffled oil pan and an oil cooler added to the engines oil system
ID also suggest drilling 8 1/8" holes in the T-STAT flange so any trapped air will circulate and exit the system and you ALWAYS have at least minimal coolant flow
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=296
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1540
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=149&p=183#p183
this looks very typical of engine swap cooling systems
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-440/?rtype=10
read this
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003 ... /index.php
example heres a sbc swapped into a 240z that was running a bit warm, looking at the set-up,
personally I think adding twin pusher fans since youve obviously got the room required is a no brainer here!
Id also check the amps and voltage at the pull fan, as its very common for those electric motors to either be less than up to the job of pulling enough air flow or your alternator to be putting out less than the required power levels to spin the fan to its FULL potential, Ive cured several marginal cooling engines that ran electric fans problems with a swap to a 200 amp alternator
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/