step 1
pull and carefully clean and degrease the intake mount surfaces...after bring the engine to TDC on the damper tab and ballancer and verifying the distrib rotor is pointing at cylinder #1, then
throw the rubber front and rear intake seal bars in the new intake set in the dumpster
step 2
clean the block rails and the matching intake surfaces with acetone,or toluene soaked shop rag. clean all previous gasket material and sealant off the heads and block surfaces with a gasket scrapper or razor
step 3
place a 1/4" wide bead of black silicone sealant along the center of BOTH the block rails and lower intake mateing surfaces,place the port gaskets and align the bolt holes with the holes in the cylinder heads and put a small bead of sealant around 360 degrees of the water transfer ports,on both sides of the gasket, on both gaskets then place the intake straight down into place so the wet sealant beads mesh, blend and squeeze out a bit.
step 4
tighten slowly in stages working from the center bolts outward, use a #2 phillips screw driver to make minor adjustments to the intake thru the bolt holes if it moved a bit durring the install, then drop into place and thread all bolts finger tight before tightening any of them,.
step 5
allow to dry for a couple hours minimum over night,will be better, before use
OPTIONAL but RECOMMENDED
use a sharp object like a steel punch or awl and plastic hammer to DIMPLE both upper and lower surfaces to give the silicone sealant a firmer grip, by lightly dimpling the surfaces over a large surface
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39940
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=621
btw the correct lenght , threaded carb STUDS to mount the carb to the intake are far less likely to strip threads in the manifold
look if your only installing a distrib after a manifold swap,and start from scratch on the ignition timing,
ITS not complicated, pull the #1 plug and put you thumb over the hole tightly, turn the engine in the normal dirrection of rotation, with a breaker bar and scocket untill you get compression in the #1 cylinder, as the damper TDC line approches the TDC timing tab, drop the distributor in with the rotor facing the #1 cylinder,compensate for the way the distrib gear causes the rotor to rotate as in seats,so its seated pointing where you intended, if it won,t fully seat turn the oil pump drive with a very large flat blade screw driver untill it will,with the distrib removed and try again, once it seats,facing the correct dirrection, install and tighten the distrib clamp so its difficult to spin the distrib easily by hand but still possiable to spin the distrib by hand, re-install the #1 plug and wire, install the cap and all ignition related wires, use your timing light and set the ignition timing,per the shop manuals instructions, tighten the distibutor hold clamp so it can,t move, IF it takes more than 10 minutes your in need of more practice or nearly hopeless as a mechanic.The CLOYES true roller style is vastly superior to the factory link belt design
how come its 180 degs out of phase?
I get this question all the time, well here’s something I see lots of guys don’t understand, ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, while its true that if the, timing marks are positioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the position that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every firing cycle once on the firing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselves open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ‘’YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT
ID suggest verifying TDC and the use of timing tape on the damper and a decent timing light rather than guessing.
once youve located TRUE TDC, you either install timing tape on your current damper, or a marked cover
then graphing your advance curve
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-lights.875/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/verifying-your-real-advance-curve.4683/
this is usually a good start point
watch this
http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm
drop the distrib in with the rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder, and YEAH! it physically possiable to get the distributors rotor to point at any place you want it too by changing the oil pump drive shaft alignment with a large flat blade screw driver while the distributors out of the engine and thats easily changed, but to do it correctly,you want the rotor to point at the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke, so pull the #1 plug, get a large ratchet/socket on the damper and put your finger over the open plug hole and slowly rotate the engine by hand in its normal rotational dirrection untill you see pressure build under your finger as the rotor approaches #1 cylinder location on the distributor base which you should have marked as its supposed to be in dirrect alignment between the distrib and the number 1 cylinder on the engine, remember the distributor and cam gears are heilical and the rotor turns as it seats so compensate slightly. and the rotor should be just coming into alignment as pressure builds under your finger, once thats done re-install the distrib cap and plug and use a timing light to set the timing, you normally want about 6-12 degrees BTDC at idle and watch it advance to about 37 degrees as the rpms build to about 3000rpmok, then have you checked the distributor to oil pump drive shaft length?,
IF YOUR DISTRIB LEAKS OIL AROUND THE BASE GASKET..
it seems the distrib is not seating fully against the intake ring gasket and the distrib to oil pump drive is suspected of being a bit to long, there should be about .050 slack MINIMUM between the oil pump drive shaft and the distrib gear
pull and carefully clean and degrease the intake mount surfaces...after bring the engine to TDC on the damper tab and ballancer and verifying the distrib rotor is pointing at cylinder #1, then
throw the rubber front and rear intake seal bars in the new intake set in the dumpster
step 2
clean the block rails and the matching intake surfaces with acetone,or toluene soaked shop rag. clean all previous gasket material and sealant off the heads and block surfaces with a gasket scrapper or razor
step 3
place a 1/4" wide bead of black silicone sealant along the center of BOTH the block rails and lower intake mateing surfaces,place the port gaskets and align the bolt holes with the holes in the cylinder heads and put a small bead of sealant around 360 degrees of the water transfer ports,on both sides of the gasket, on both gaskets then place the intake straight down into place so the wet sealant beads mesh, blend and squeeze out a bit.
step 4
tighten slowly in stages working from the center bolts outward, use a #2 phillips screw driver to make minor adjustments to the intake thru the bolt holes if it moved a bit durring the install, then drop into place and thread all bolts finger tight before tightening any of them,.
step 5
allow to dry for a couple hours minimum over night,will be better, before use
OPTIONAL but RECOMMENDED
use a sharp object like a steel punch or awl and plastic hammer to DIMPLE both upper and lower surfaces to give the silicone sealant a firmer grip, by lightly dimpling the surfaces over a large surface
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39940
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=621
btw the correct lenght , threaded carb STUDS to mount the carb to the intake are far less likely to strip threads in the manifold
look if your only installing a distrib after a manifold swap,and start from scratch on the ignition timing,
ITS not complicated, pull the #1 plug and put you thumb over the hole tightly, turn the engine in the normal dirrection of rotation, with a breaker bar and scocket untill you get compression in the #1 cylinder, as the damper TDC line approches the TDC timing tab, drop the distributor in with the rotor facing the #1 cylinder,compensate for the way the distrib gear causes the rotor to rotate as in seats,so its seated pointing where you intended, if it won,t fully seat turn the oil pump drive with a very large flat blade screw driver untill it will,with the distrib removed and try again, once it seats,facing the correct dirrection, install and tighten the distrib clamp so its difficult to spin the distrib easily by hand but still possiable to spin the distrib by hand, re-install the #1 plug and wire, install the cap and all ignition related wires, use your timing light and set the ignition timing,per the shop manuals instructions, tighten the distibutor hold clamp so it can,t move, IF it takes more than 10 minutes your in need of more practice or nearly hopeless as a mechanic.The CLOYES true roller style is vastly superior to the factory link belt design
how come its 180 degs out of phase?
I get this question all the time, well here’s something I see lots of guys don’t understand, ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, while its true that if the, timing marks are positioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the position that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every firing cycle once on the firing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselves open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ‘’YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT
ID suggest verifying TDC and the use of timing tape on the damper and a decent timing light rather than guessing.
once youve located TRUE TDC, you either install timing tape on your current damper, or a marked cover
then graphing your advance curve
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-lights.875/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/verifying-your-real-advance-curve.4683/
this is usually a good start point
watch this
http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm
drop the distrib in with the rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder, and YEAH! it physically possiable to get the distributors rotor to point at any place you want it too by changing the oil pump drive shaft alignment with a large flat blade screw driver while the distributors out of the engine and thats easily changed, but to do it correctly,you want the rotor to point at the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke, so pull the #1 plug, get a large ratchet/socket on the damper and put your finger over the open plug hole and slowly rotate the engine by hand in its normal rotational dirrection untill you see pressure build under your finger as the rotor approaches #1 cylinder location on the distributor base which you should have marked as its supposed to be in dirrect alignment between the distrib and the number 1 cylinder on the engine, remember the distributor and cam gears are heilical and the rotor turns as it seats so compensate slightly. and the rotor should be just coming into alignment as pressure builds under your finger, once thats done re-install the distrib cap and plug and use a timing light to set the timing, you normally want about 6-12 degrees BTDC at idle and watch it advance to about 37 degrees as the rpms build to about 3000rpmok, then have you checked the distributor to oil pump drive shaft length?,
IF YOUR DISTRIB LEAKS OIL AROUND THE BASE GASKET..
it seems the distrib is not seating fully against the intake ring gasket and the distrib to oil pump drive is suspected of being a bit to long, there should be about .050 slack MINIMUM between the oil pump drive shaft and the distrib gear
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