Distributor off one tooth ???

Z

zman57

Member
I have tried searchig through previous posts, and I can't remember were I read a post talking about the distributor being off one tooth when it was initialy set. I have printed out the grumpy's thread in regards to lining up the crank and cam gear marks and rotating the crank 360 degrees to drop in the distributor. How does the engine act with the distributor 180 degrees out?? When I installed this cam I did not degree the engine because I did not understand the process and now it seems that this might be the reason my engine is not running right.

Symptons that I dealing with : erractic idle fluctuates between 700 - 950 RPMs (looking for vacum leaks)
timing marks not lining up ( I am greater than 14 degrees BTDC.) That is were the car wants to run at 850 RPMs, vacum reading around 15 psi no fluctuation. (fluctuates when engine RMP drops)
I initially was dealing with backfire through the carb and a slight stumble under acceleration, I have changed the squirters on the carb and advanced the timing, and I have seen a great deal of improvement but I am not at 100%. The backfire has been eliminated by 98% and the engine runs well at going down the road.

350 block
327 crank
10:5:1 TRW pistons
Holley 650 mechanicle carb, Holley contender manifold
MAllory Dual point Distributor
Crane Fireball cam older version pre-1990 ( mild do not have the specs)
Headers
 
if you got it to run its NOT 180 degrees out!
you may have installed the cam a few degrees out of phase and that would cause those symptoms but there's also other factors that could cause them.
start bye verifying that TDC on the damper and timing tab indicate true TDC
verify there's no vacuum leaks and the carbs correctly adjusted, set the timing once the TDC is verified and recheck your firing order carefully
ordety.jpg

WATCH VIDEO

http://www.summersbrothersracing.co...LF-CUT-DRIVE-FLANGE-BIG-BLOCK-CHEVY_p_30.html


viewtopic.php?f=52&t=966

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=464

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1411

http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampe ... ctions.htm

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstruc ... 1-8560.pdf

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/disremov.htm


link to more info on finding TDC and seating a distributor
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=967

links may help

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-top-dead-center.967/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ying-your-real-advance-curve.4683/#post-12672

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/shiming-a-distributor.251/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ouble-shooting-rebuilding-hei-ignitions.2798/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/distrib-won-t-seat-correctly.9231/

step one, pull the #1 plug and place the tip of your finger over the plug hole and rotate the engine until you feel COMPRESSION build as the number one cylinder, piston starts its compression stroke as the mark on the damper gets close to the timing tab, then remove your finger and continue turning the engine until the timing line on the damper aligns with the timing tab (0) TDC
once thats done the engine should not rotate any more until the distributor is seated correctly.
once thats lined up you drop the distributor into the engine so the rotor on the distributor points at the #1 cylinder when it seats and you install and lightly tighten the clamp and connect the wires, connect the timing light and set the timing at about 6-8 degrees BTDC at idle as a start point., if the distributor won,t fully seat the oil pump drive shaft needs to be turned a few degrees with a long large flat blade screw driver and re-try seating it while, it might take several tries until it lines up, it will seat into the distributor base gear once the oil pump drive aligns with the oil pump slot in the distributor gear base
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Grumpy,

Finally recieved the degree wheel and TDC tool , checked TDC and everything worked out. The harmonic balancer lines up with 0 on the timing tab and the distributor rotor is pointing to no.1 cylinder. I am ready to start putting the front end back together and I am trying to start the elimination process of what would be causing the motor not to run 100%.
I own a MSD Billet distributor PN/85551, should I install this distributor or do you reccomend a vacum advance HEI ? Currently there is a mallory dual point distributor on this motor and I want to replace this distributor to a more reliable ignition.
Since I have everything apart now, should I go ahead and replace the harmonic balancer anyway, it is a 40 yr. old two pc ?
The part that I do not understand is if the distributor is installed correctly and I have found TDC , why did this motor want to run at 14 degrees or better BTDC?
My main goal now is to get this car on the road and enjoy it.
 
zman57 said:
Grumpy,

Finally recieved the degree wheel and TDC tool , checked TDC and everything worked out. The harmonic balancer lines up with 0 on the timing tab and the distributor rotor is pointing to no.1 cylinder. I am ready to start putting the front end back together and I am trying to start the elimination process of what would be causing the motor not to run 100%.
I own a MSD Billet distributor PN/85551, should I install this distributor or do you reccomend a vacum advance HEI ? Currently there is a mallory dual point distributor on this motor and I want to replace this distributor to a more reliable ignition.
Since I have everything apart now, should I go ahead and replace the harmonic balancer anyway, it is a 40 yr. old two pc ?
The part that I do not understand is if the distributor is installed correctly and I have found TDC , why did this motor want to run at 14 degrees or better BTDC?
My main goal now is to get this car on the road and enjoy it.
Click to expand...

ID replace any OEM 40 year old damper with a decent aftermarket damper style with degrees marked clearly on the rim, of the same diam. as you have currently
ati-917781_w.jpg

ati-917080.jpg

those are nice distributors and yes ID use the one youve got!

http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx ... erms=85551

features

* CNC machined billet aluminum housing and billet aluminum base
* Easy-to-adjust mechanical advance with supplied springs and stop bushings
* Maintenance-free magnetic pickup and precision reluctor create stable trigger signals throughout the rpm range
* Polished steel shaft is QPQ coated and guided by a sealed ball bearing and extra long sintered bushing
* Advance plate and weights are fine blanked from chrome moly steel and QPQ coated for friction reduction
* Mechanical advance assembly can be locked out for crank trigger systems (be sure its NOT)
* Advance weight pins are staked and tig welded to the plate
* Nylon pads ensure smooth operation of the advance weights
* Special oil tract improves lubrication to the distributor and cam gear
* O-ring seals can be added to modified blocks to improve oil pressure control
* Supplied with an HEI style distributor cap and rotor (accepts Cap-A-Dapts)
* Must be used with an MSD Ignition Control (be sure to get the matching ignition controller)
* Will not accept a vacuum advance canister
* No CARB Exemption Order Number
 
Grumpy,

My original balancer is 6 3/4" OD, the ATI balancers only come in 6" or 7" OD. I ordered the 7" and an adjustable timing tab. Will I be alright with this setup as long as I install the balancer and reset TDC with the degree wheel?
 
it should be just fine, but verify the clearance with the timing tab, and TDC marking or replace the timing tab if it presents you with a clearance problem, because on rare occasions they don,t match correctly

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1015

v8-firing-flowchart.png

v8-sound.png

MTCooksoon.jpg


SBC cylinder numbering;
-2-4-6-8
1-3-5-7
 
Hello everybody, as you know Grump I also changed the cam recently sounds like i have the same problem, car has power only in certain RPM range I also did not degree the cam, I (we) installed it "Straight up" now it seems like I have a timing issue.During the swap I also installed a Pretty looking chrome timing cover, guess what NO TIMING TAB, i didnt realize it untill I went to use the timing light. Its not running right I didnt stab the distributor so I hoping the rotor didnt turn when my ASE mechanic friend put it in. Also we removed EGR and AIR he did the hoses and now when I come to an idle Im losing the brakes. Car holds Idle fine.Im injured so I cant work on my car myself only oversee it, and I cant have him tear it apart again. We are near each other...Do you ever make side money taking a look at other member's Vettes ;)
 
Hello everybody, as you know Grump I also changed the cam recently sounds like i have the same problem, car has power only in certain RPM range I also did not degree the cam, I (we) installed it "Straight up" now it seems like I have a timing issue.During the swap I also installed a Pretty looking chrome timing cover, guess what NO TIMING TAB, i didnt realize it untill I went to use the timing light. Its not running right I didnt stab the distributor so I hoping the rotor didnt turn when my ASE mechanic friend put it in. Also we removed EGR and AIR he did the hoses and now when I come to an idle Im losing the brakes. Car holds Idle fine.Im injured so I cant work on my car myself only oversee it, and I cant have him tear it apart again. We are near each other...Do you ever make side money taking a look at other member's Vettes ;)
 
"Do you ever make side money taking a look at other member's Vettes ;)"

sure I do on occasion, but for something that simple its almost 100% sure its so simple to fix its a free-be Im glad to help with
 
Thats mighty fine of you Grump not very many people in the world willing to help out these days, Thats why I enjoy these forums, we all have the same goal...to enjoy our passion for these amazing automobiles! We will be taking another stab at it this Sat. so I will post what I find out. I cant wait to be able to do some of this myself. Thanks all...
 
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