why is it so darn difficult for some people to realize that when your faced with a car that won,t start the best course of action is simply to be dropping back to the basics and actually verify reality, and not assuming any particular thing is wrong or working with out first verifying it to be the case, it the only reasonable route to getting things corrected.
random guessing and parts swapping is expensive ,time intensive,and frequently is usually a waste of time unless you just get lucky,
I had one of the neighbors kids , spend all day trying to start his car, that had been sitting for over a year since the last time it ran, in his dads garage, at first the engine would not turn over so I asked him to use a multi meter and verify the battery voltage as he tried too start the car, when that proved to be only 9 volts I suggested he charge the battery and use jumper cables connected to a second running car to provide the required amps to spin the engine.
I also strongly suggested he drain the old fuel and add new fuel and verify the spark plugs were getting spark and the ignition timing was correct with a timing light, and swapping in a new set of spark plugs and a new fuel filter and verifying the oil , and coolant level should be mandatory.
well after several hours he calls back and I go thru the basics again, and at each step he tells me things like
"I didn,.t replace the fuel because the gauge says I have a 3./4 full tank"
"I didn,t inspect the spark plugs because they worked fine when I parked the car"
" I didn,t replace the fuel filter because it had only about 1000 miles on the car since it was last replaced"
"I looked at the dip stick and it reads full so the oil must be fine"
could you come over and see whats wrong?
well I come over and start checking, the fuel tank has about a quart of rusty water in it and the fuel filters full of water and the plugs are covered in sludge and look rusty plus the interior of the carburetor is totally corroded with moisture damage from water in the fuel and the needle valves are locked in place and won,t move, but because he sees fuel in the glass fuel filter he assumes its getting good fuel pressure even when working the throttle results in no fuel squirting from the carburetors accelerator pump squirters and the engine won,t start or run , even very badly ,except when starter fluid sprays used?
after pointing out these factors I again strongly suggested he install a new fuel filter,drain all the old fuel, get new fuel,new spark plugs , change the oil and oil filter, change the fuel filter and at least disassemble and clean the carb and replace the needle valves and set the floats and verify the fuel pressure and ignition timing, I offer to help do the work if the kid just gets the parts........I still get that deer in the head lights stare.....honestly, I can,t figure out people at times
I think most guys would be amazed at how often, a high flow water separating fuel filter installed near the fuel tank that,s being checked and drained, with the filter medium changed regularly will cure or prevent a good many TUNING ISSUES
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-x-38-ba ... 68213.html
http://www.amazon.com/RACOR-320R-RAC-01 ... m_sbs_sg_2
http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Separatin ... d_sbs_sg_1
fuel injection usually requires a 40psi plus fuel pressure, the line size and the fuel pressure regulator will have a big effect on your results, theres some threads and calculators above that will help,
generally a 110-150 gph pump and 3/8" / AN#6 lines minimum ,works fine up to about 550- maybe even 575hp, IN A FEW CASES with carbs BUT above that POWER LEVEL Id suggest a 1/2 AN#8 line
THERES A GREAT DEAL OF INFO IN THE LINKS AND SUB LINKS
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401
KEEP IN MIND WHEN BUYING A USED CAR YOU CAN DO A SEARCH ON PREVIOUS DAMAGE
http://www.vehicle-buyer.com/damage-car ... ted-title/
http://www.carfax.com/cfm/general_check ... KNC-Google
random guessing and parts swapping is expensive ,time intensive,and frequently is usually a waste of time unless you just get lucky,
I had one of the neighbors kids , spend all day trying to start his car, that had been sitting for over a year since the last time it ran, in his dads garage, at first the engine would not turn over so I asked him to use a multi meter and verify the battery voltage as he tried too start the car, when that proved to be only 9 volts I suggested he charge the battery and use jumper cables connected to a second running car to provide the required amps to spin the engine.
I also strongly suggested he drain the old fuel and add new fuel and verify the spark plugs were getting spark and the ignition timing was correct with a timing light, and swapping in a new set of spark plugs and a new fuel filter and verifying the oil , and coolant level should be mandatory.
well after several hours he calls back and I go thru the basics again, and at each step he tells me things like
"I didn,.t replace the fuel because the gauge says I have a 3./4 full tank"
"I didn,t inspect the spark plugs because they worked fine when I parked the car"
" I didn,t replace the fuel filter because it had only about 1000 miles on the car since it was last replaced"
"I looked at the dip stick and it reads full so the oil must be fine"
could you come over and see whats wrong?
well I come over and start checking, the fuel tank has about a quart of rusty water in it and the fuel filters full of water and the plugs are covered in sludge and look rusty plus the interior of the carburetor is totally corroded with moisture damage from water in the fuel and the needle valves are locked in place and won,t move, but because he sees fuel in the glass fuel filter he assumes its getting good fuel pressure even when working the throttle results in no fuel squirting from the carburetors accelerator pump squirters and the engine won,t start or run , even very badly ,except when starter fluid sprays used?
after pointing out these factors I again strongly suggested he install a new fuel filter,drain all the old fuel, get new fuel,new spark plugs , change the oil and oil filter, change the fuel filter and at least disassemble and clean the carb and replace the needle valves and set the floats and verify the fuel pressure and ignition timing, I offer to help do the work if the kid just gets the parts........I still get that deer in the head lights stare.....honestly, I can,t figure out people at times
I think most guys would be amazed at how often, a high flow water separating fuel filter installed near the fuel tank that,s being checked and drained, with the filter medium changed regularly will cure or prevent a good many TUNING ISSUES
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-x-38-ba ... 68213.html
http://www.amazon.com/RACOR-320R-RAC-01 ... m_sbs_sg_2
http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Separatin ... d_sbs_sg_1
fuel injection usually requires a 40psi plus fuel pressure, the line size and the fuel pressure regulator will have a big effect on your results, theres some threads and calculators above that will help,
generally a 110-150 gph pump and 3/8" / AN#6 lines minimum ,works fine up to about 550- maybe even 575hp, IN A FEW CASES with carbs BUT above that POWER LEVEL Id suggest a 1/2 AN#8 line
THERES A GREAT DEAL OF INFO IN THE LINKS AND SUB LINKS
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401
KEEP IN MIND WHEN BUYING A USED CAR YOU CAN DO A SEARCH ON PREVIOUS DAMAGE
http://www.vehicle-buyer.com/damage-car ... ted-title/
http://www.carfax.com/cfm/general_check ... KNC-Google
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