Electric pump cooling system questions

Discussion in 'Cooling Systems' started by NitroInjected, Feb 18, 2019.

  1. NitroInjected

    NitroInjected Well-Known Member

    I am getting my car ever closer to being able to rumble onto a trailer to get the throwout bearing replaced and the turbo piping buzzed up but before that I need to finish my cooling system and make an oil drain adapter plate for my turbo... ECT ECT.
    My main issue right now is the fact that I have my pump so damn high up due to its size and configuration. I have it pulling from the engine outlet and pushing into the radiator which is a longggggg circut due to the cars design. I am wondering if that will cause issues. I cant connect to the bottom hose at this time because everything is custom made and order so id be another two months parked. I know even if it cools odd like this I can get it to the dyno for inital fuel trimming while hoses get shipped to me. I already had to order a 45* silicone bend to replace a 90 as the 90 created an 3 shaped join which is no good. So thats in the mail... My issue is I have two ports coming off from the head. one I plan on running into the turbo and then into the header tank. the other is supposed to hook up to the heater core... Issue is I would have two pressure lines feeding into my header tank... To me that sounds less than ideal. I am thinking about eliminating the rear of the car heater lines cutting about a gallon out of the cooling system and teeing off to either side of the rad for heat.
    so my questions are.
    1. is pulling from the top of the motor bad? Rather than pushing. IF I push I will need to relocate the pump to the front of the car!
    2. are these two ports not going to flow water properly in this configuration causing hot spots?

    3. Will I need a seperate pump for heat if I t off from the rad rather than the head?

    4. Anyone done a remote electronic water pump?
     
  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    posting several clear detailed pictures taken from several different angle with good lighting will exponentially
    boost the odds of getting valid and intelligent suggestions.
    you may have a good idea of what your referring too... most of us, never having seen your cars engine bay and engine install...
    are not privy to the condition's, clearances and general application limitations,
    and are grouping blind at best,, without those,,,
    several clear detailed pictures taken from several different angle with good lighting

    youll also need to use anodes in any remote mount coolant pump config

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/anodes.74/#post-674

    https://www.meziere.com/Products/Cooling-System-Products/Pumps-Electric/Remote-Mount.aspx

    https://pitstopusa.com/c-1207648-co...ectric-remote-mount-electric-water-pumps.html

    https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/50950/10002/-1

    https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/meziere-remote-electric-water-pumps
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2019
  3. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    It's better to have the Remote electric water pump mounted low.
    It will still pump water.
    Getting all the air pockets out is key.
     
  4. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Pulling the Engine coolant sensor out or unhooking 1 heater hose Fill the engine and radiator with coolant mix.
     

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