engine cranes

[grumpyvette]

Engine cranes


there’s a HUGE difference in QUALITY between different engine cranes, ID VERY STRONGLY suggest you look over ALL the choices and NOT LET PRICE be your main factor in your decision, DON,T JUMP at the CHEAP PRICE OPTION, think about it carefully, at some point you’ll be UNDER that engine and its potentially possible that if it falls you’ll be seriously hurt.

here is two different engine hoists, the cost difference is major BUT SO IS THE STRENGTH, REACH and WEIGHT of STEEL IN THEM
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... _200305213

Ship Wt. 278.0 lbs


http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 9703_19703

Ship Wt. 500.0 lbs

now IM NOT suggesting you spend 4 times the money, but I AM suggesting you take your time and shop very carefully as you may get crippled for life if you use CRAP, and it fails while your under it!....how much is your #%^%& BUTT WORTH

http://www.asedeals.com/aff_engine_cranes.html

http://www.extremetools.net/miva/mercha ... gineCranes

http://www.americanautomotiveequipment. ... ranes.html


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=7620

I’ve used PLATES in swaps done at some of my friends shops, in my opinion they flat out are dangerous and very difficult to use compared to a good engine tilter like this one below, while the plate seems attractive at $8 compared to $25-$30 or more for a tilter/leveler I have seen the plates destroy manifolds on two occasions by cracking carb mount pads and bending carb studs, especially if the intake is old with corrosion on the stud threads, (4)1/4" or 5/16" studs into aluminum intakes of questionable depth are no comparison to (4) 3/8" bolts into the cylinder heads, and the (4)head mounted 3/8" bolts are under shear and tension while the studs in the intake rely on the thread strength only

I now bring my own tilter/leveler when going to a friends to do an engine swap and have YET to find anyone who after useing one that did not go out and by one!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=5402

LOOK THEY ARE ON SALE FOR $25, they are rated at 4000lbs vs 1250 lbs for the plate and they make life far easier durring an engine install at $25 they are a GREAT DEAL[/b]

adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES)

youll need two of these rated at similar load strength

 

[grumpyvette]

for many years Ive used an engine crane in the shop to pull engines, and it became very obvious that some mods to the system were darn near MANDATORY,
adding an engine leveler and swivel to your engine crane makes things far easier

adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, AS IT PREVENTS THE TENDENCY OF THE ENGINE HANGING ON A CHAIN TO CONSTANTLY WANT TO SWING BACK INTO A SINGLE LOCATION, BUT DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES)

youll need two of these rated at similar load strength[/b]

ever engine crane Ive ever seen came with crappy steel wheels about 2.5"-3"in dia.

" the reasons are obvious they are cheap ,and theres clearance issues for the cranes legs if your pulling an engine when the cars NOT up on jack stands, now I can,t see how you can access all the necessary bolts without the car being up on serious,& sturdy jack stands or a lift, so with that in mind I got out the air/die grinder and removed the tack welded steel wheels and added (6) 8" solid rubber wheels on swivels,

rated at 600 lbs each
yeah, the crane will no longer slide under a car thats not up on jack stands, but then I can,t think of a single reason to use a crane to remove an engine when the cars NOT UP ON JACK STANDS because youll need access to all the bolts holding it in durring the process and youll need to support the trans
" ,
YET,ANOTHER GOOD EXAMPLE OF WHY A WELDER IN THE SHOP COMES IN HANDY(welding on new wheels)

this made it SO MUCH EASIER to use its amazing
BTW
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41563

these are very similar to what I used (6) of on the engine crane, having 6 large dia. CASTERS rather than 4 small casters and two wheels that don,t change direction is a HUGE IMPROVEMENT in how easily the engine crane moves once an engines suspended from it

Ive used 2 1/2" long 3/8-16 grade 8 bolts, with fender washers and lift chains on the engine tilter,. They would not screw in all the way but are screwed in all the way finger tight, the idea is to not stress the heads or threads in the heads or the intake but have a very strong grip on the engine and if the bolts bend a bit its no big deal at all..btw this was not my engine in the picture, make sure you use a swivel between the crane and the leveler and hook the leveler up so the crank is in the front of the engine or in some cases the windshield and crank on the leveler might pose a clearance issue

 

[grumpyvette]

I was asked to repost this info

engine lifting plate
safe? usually, yes! if your asking do they drop the engine...
BUT PERSONALLY I think its a NO BRAINER!
Ive used PLATES in swaps done at some of my friends shops, they bolt with (4) 1/4" or in some cases (4) 5/16" studs in my opinion they flat out are dangerous compared to a tilter that bolts with 3/8" bolts anchored in the courners of the cylinder heads and very difficult to use compared to a good engine tilter like this one below, while the plate seems attractive at $8 compared to $25-$30 or more for a tilter/leveler I have seen the plates destroy manifolds on two occasions by cracking carb mount pads and bending carb studs, especially if the intake is old with coroasion on the stud threads, (4)1/4" or 5/16" studs into aluminum intakes of questionable depth are no comparison to (4) 3/8" bolts into the cylinder heads, and the (4)head mounted 3/8" bolts are under shear and tension while the studs in the intake rely on the thread strength only

I now bring my own tilter/leveler when going to a friends to do an engine swap and have YET to find anyone who after useing one that did not go out and by one!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=5402

LOOK THEY ARE ON SALE FOR $25, they are rated at 4000lbs vs 1250 lbs for the plate and they make life far easier durring an engine install at $25 they are a GREAT DEAL[/b]

adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES)

youll need two of these rated at similar load strength

links like these are NEVER to be used under serious loads

links like these ARE RATED for LOADS but never use less than a 3/8" steel link

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=2744465&showprevnext=1

but you need a serious safety margin
most engines weight well under 900 lbs so a 200%-400% safety margin is advisable, youll want a minimum of a 2600-3000 lb load rated link, Ive used tempered steel 3/8" 3600lb AND 1/2" 4500lb links for years with zero problems
if it costs under $12-$16 each ID think they were NOT load rated links
load rated links have the manufacturers name and load rating stamped on the link, and are generally sold seperately not from bulk pack boxes


links can be found rated at 1-10 tons or more, your average auto engines under 900 lbs so a 1.5 ton-2 ton rated link gives a decent safety margin

IF youve ever pulled or installed an engine like this with a leveler....could I make a suggestion, PLEASE use a single longer section of chain that drapes thru and out over both ends of the engine tilter, or even better, use two and drape them thru each end (possiably with a clevis) and bolt both ends of both chains to the engine as it will be far less likely to slip out under load.
YOU would NOT be the first guy to have one chain slide out of those end chain grip slots and the engine swing an destroy a wind sheild or radiator OR WORSE! doing that like the picture ABOVE depicts......[the picture below shows is in a safer config

 

[grumpyvette]

Basic Engine Removal

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

disconnect both battery terminals, drain all oil and coolent, use quality jack stands and wheel chocks, put the parking break on, keep a fire extinguisher handy , make very sure the car cant be knocked off the jack stands,THINK THU EVERY MOVE,DON,T ALLOW YOUR HANDS INTO PLACES THAT WILL GET CRUSHED IF SOMETHING SLIPS OR BREAKS,

DON,T FORGET TO BRING DOZENS OF THOSE TIE ON LINEN TAGS TO LABEL EVERY CONNECTOR AS YOU REMOVE IT AS TO WHERE IT CONNECTS, a marker that gas and oil won,t make the ink run, AND A DIGITAL CAMERA TO TAKE DOZENS OF PICTURES AS YOU DO THE WIRE REMOVAL TO USE LATER AS A REFERANCE TO MAKE THE RE-INSTALL EASIER
BTW theres no way to write all the necessary info on the tag so just write a large number and then write all your info on a large pad with that number on the top of the page and the same number on the back of any photo if you can later when the pictures are developed or down loaded to your computer and printed out
remember to support the transmission, BEFORE you pull the engine , just letting it drop could cost you big$$$
keep a 5 gallon bucket around to theow ALL the bolts in but take the time to lable zip lock bags for each group of bolts also ,(bags like )(intake bolts)(header bolts)(accesories)(water pump)(motor mount)(bellhouseing) (head bolts)CAN HELP A GREAT DEAL IN GETTING THE CORRECT BOLTS BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOTS
clean all bolts befor reuse with a mix of diesel/carb cleaner and a wire brush and look for worn or corroaded parts needing replavement
YOU DON,T NEED to pull the hood to pull the engine,(ON MANY CARS) but if you do,lightly dust the hood mount locations with white paint,this allows you to exactly replace the hood alighnment correctly by showing exactly how they were previously installed (RECOVER(REPAINT) AFTER THE HOODS REPLACED WITH BLACK paint AGAIN)
take lots of notes and pictures, lable every connection
its far easier with two people!
adding an engine leveler and swivel to your engine crane makes things far easier

 

[grumpyvette]

read thru

I hope this helps the newer guys, you older guys know this by now or your hopeless!

Yes, you can pull the engine without removing the hood...

step (1) buy a manual, the chevy shop manual is PREFERED


http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_...2=CHV&mscsid=5PPE6D798JEA9JTTG118F918ULHR0V8C

(step (2) THINK THINGS THRU.....work on a dry level concrete surface if you can, use floresent not incandesent lights under the corvette,thier far less likely to start fires disconnect both battery terminals, drain all oil and coolent, use quality jack stands and wheel chocks, put the parking break on, keep a fire extinguisher handy , make very sure the car can,t be knocked off the jack stands, which should be placed on the frame at all four corners,THINK THU EVERY MOVE,DON,T ALLOW YOUR HANDS INTO PLACES THAT WILL GET CRUSHED IF SOMETHING SLIPS OR BREAKS,

DON,T FORGET TO BRING DOZENS OF THOSE TIE ON LINEN TAGS TO LABEL EVERY CONNECTOR AS YOU REMOVE IT AS TO WHERE IT CONNECTS, USE a marker that gas and oil won,t make the ink run, AND USE A DIGITAL CAMERA TO TAKE DOZENS OF PICTURES AS YOU DO THE WIRE REMOVAL TO USE LATER AS A REFERANCE TO MAKE THE RE-INSTALL EASIER
BTW theres no way to write all the necessary info on the tag so just write a large number on the tag and then write all your info on a large pad with that number on the top of the page and the same number on the back of any photo if you can later when the pictures are developed or down loaded to your computer and printed out
remember to support the transmission, BEFORE you pull the engine , just letting it drop could cost you big$$$
keep a 5 gallon bucket around to throw ALL the bolts in with some deisel fuel (not gas) in it to clean the bolts BEFORE putting them in each labled plastic bag,AND YEAH! take the time to lable zip lock bags for each group of bolts also ,(bags like )(intake bolts)(header bolts)(accesories)(water pump)(motor mount)(bellhouseing) (head bolts)CAN HELP A GREAT DEAL IN GETTING THE CORRECT BOLTS BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOTS
clean all bolts before reuse with a mix of diesel/carb cleaner and a wire brush and look for worn or corroaded parts needing replavement
YOU DON,T NEED to pull the hood to pull the engine,(MOST CARS) but if you do,lightly dust the hood mount locations with white paint,this allows you to exactly replace the hood alighnment correctly by showing exactly how they were previously installed (RECOVER(REPAINT) AFTER THE HOODS REPLACED WITH BLACK paint AGAIN)
take lots of notes and pictures, lable every connection
its far easier with two people!
adding an engine leveler and swivel to your engine crane makes things far easier

adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES)

youll need two of these rated at similar load strength[/b]

the question almost always goes like this

"whats the proper way to safely work under the corvette? the ramps I have skid away from the tires as I try to roll up on them, and the jack scratches or dents my cross member, I can,t get the floor jack under the corvette, where do I place the jack stands, how high should the vette be?ETC."

lets talk
jack stands first, need to have a wide base and allow significant under car clearance to work, I can and do HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting 4 of these JACK STANDS as they are significantly larger and stronger and far harder to tip over than the average auto parts store JUNK most guys use

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34924

yeah I KNOW your first idea is , the 6 ton stands are cheaper and the corvette only weights 3500lbs so why the 12 ton stands???? trust me here!!! the 12 ton stands allow both a significantly larger under car clearance and they have a much wider base making them MUCH safer, spend the extra few bucks!!! its well worth it!! and the jack stands need to be placed solidly on the frame in four widely spaced locations, I normally use the locations chevy suggests in the user manual , but two widely spaced on the front (K) member and TWO on the rearv frame seems ok also


if your going to get under the car SAFELY you need QUALITY jack stands, a QUALITY FLOOR JACK and RAMPS to allow you to roll the jack under the vette!

if your like me , and own a C-4 corvette (I OWN 3 C-4 corvettes) youve more than likely found that a typical floor jack won,t roll under the corvette unless its up on ramps first and that RAMPS tend to skid away from the tires as you try to drive up on them
heres the solution
first buy the (4 )12 ton jack stands, so you can work under the vette safely
buy these or similar ramps
http://www.autobarn.net/rodi/usm11905.html

they are light weight plastic but rated at 8000 lbs (you only use them to get the jack under the corvette NOT YOU! and no you don,t work under the corvette with them, and to keep them from sliding away from the tires the solution is simple, you buy 0ne 36" long rubber mat, cut it into two 36" long and 10" wide sections and CONTACT CEMENT/GLUE them to the rhino ramps so that about 18" is on the concrete in front of the ramp and 18" is glued to the upper surface of the ramp, so the vettes tires are on the mat before the car starts to go up the ramp thus TRAPPING the ramp in place as the tire starts up the ramp useing the vettes weight it self

next the floor jack, youve got lots of choices but get a good one!
sears has a reasonably good quality 3 ton floor jack that comes with two jack stands( these you can use to support the trans or rear end while the good 12 ton stands support the vettes frame) it costs about $99 I have two in the shop. and that frame dent problem is easily avoided if you GLUE a 6" x 6" X 1" thick section of old truck tire thats FREELY available on most interstates as BLOW OUT SCRAP to the jack pad with contact cement!

http://www.bizrate.com/buy/products...loor jack,lp--1,mkt_id--16867906,rf--fwa.html


remember its your BUTT/life thats under that vette and if it falls your the guy getting squashed like a bug! think ! do it correctly

I think youll find these very handy if you work on cars and don,t have a lift
BTW the 12 ton stands are VASTLY PREFERED as they have a WIDER BASE and EXTRA STRENGTH,(if IM GOING UNDER A CAR I DON,T WANT TO BENCH PRESS THE DAMN THING TO GET OUT FROM UNDER IT)
how much is you LIFE WORTH,BUY THE !12 ton RATED STANDS they are MUCH safer than the 3-6 ton stands IF ONLY BECAUSE THEY ARE FAR HARDER TO TIP OVER IF SOMEONE ROCKS THE CAR!

2 Piece Set
These super heavy duty jack stands will hold most cars and trucks safely over 2 feet off the ground. Perfect for repair work or storage.
Height: 19-1/2'' to 30-1/8''
Base: 12'' x 12-1/2''
Weight: 68 lbs.

THIS ABOVE IS RIGHT OFF THE HF WEB SITE

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=34924

second, thing is IVE used a set of four very similar 12 ton jack stands from NORTHERN TOOL for years, with no problems what so ever , and when they are in their low setting they are at about the right height to allow you to work under the corvette

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...19&categoryId=0

Torin Pair of 12–Ton Jack Stands
2 heavy–duty steel jack stands at one low price! Double locking pawl and tooth design for extra protection. Minimum height is 18 1/8in. Maximum height is 28in.
In Stock
Ship Wt. 63.0 lbs
Item# 144872
Discount Price... $64.99
Sale Price... $54.99
110% Guaranteed Lowest Price!


youll be getting them at a significant discount if they price match, which they should

ENGINE ASSEMBLY
Removal (from chevy manual) step by step



Disconnect battery ground cable.

Drain cooling system.

Remove air cleaner.

Remove serpentine belt.

Remove braces at the back of A/C compressor.

Disconnect wires at A/C compressor.

Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at TBI units.

Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket nuts and bolts.

Disconnect heater hoses at the block.

Disconnect fuel line clip at fuel pump cover plate.

Disconnect upper radiator hose at thermostat outlet.

Remove A/C compressor to mounting bracket bolt and ove compressor aside.

Remove mounting bracket.

Disconnect CFI harness at engine.

Disconnect cruise, detent and accelerator cables.

Remove distributor shield.

Remove distributor cap.

Remove 4 wire connector at distributor.

Disconnect detent cable bracket at intake.

Remove distributor.

Disconnect wires at oil pressure sending unit.

Remove oil pressure sending unit.

Disconnect necessary vacuum hoses.

Disconnect power steering hoses at rack and pinion.

Remove crankshaft pulley.

Disconnect bulkhead connector and necessary harness connectors.

Disconnect AIR hoses at converter check valve.

Move fuel lines aside.

Disconnect radiator hose at water pump.

Disconnect upper radiator hose at power steering reservoir bracket.

Raise vehicle.

Disconnect AIR pipe at exhaust manifold.

Remove AIR pipe at converter.

Disconnect "Y" pipe hanger.

Disconnect heat shields at "Y" pipe and converter.

Disconnect oxygen sensor wire.

Remove exhaust bolts at manifold.

Remove "Y" pipe at converter bolts.

Remove "Y" pipe.

Remove flywheel cover.

Remove torque converter bolts.

Loosen motor mount through bolts.

Remove motor mount to engine block bolts.

Remove bell housing bolts.

Disconnect knock sensor wire.

Disconnect ground cable at block.

Disconnect positive battery cable at battery and harness.

Remove right rear intake manifold bolt and install lift hook.

Support transmission with jack.

Install lifting device and lift engine enough to remove CFI ground at rear of left cylinder head.

Remove engine from vehicle.


Installation
For installation, reverse Removal procedures.

 

[grumpyvette]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1027/

btw you can buy some FLIMSY engine straps like this THAT WILL WORK on that engine tilter
or you can use your brains and buy two , 30" lengths of 3/8" tempered chain, and four-six 4000-5000lb rated screw links

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/ ... Item=1XUC2

http://shopper.cnet.com/tools/2-ton-400 ... 29710.html

four spring shackles
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm ... goryID=180
and custom make a setup thats far less likely to fail and kill your butt under load