Engine Failure, Caused By A Missing 0-ring???

2Loose

reliable source of info
Not sure where to post this, but as it is the rotating assembly that failed, I'll try here....

I helped a buddy put together a BBC 540 for racing this year from misc parts we had laying around the shop.

Block is from a Shafiroff previous 509, a set of aluminum RHS heads, used, from a previous motor, set up for racing, solid roller race cam, lots of lift, new springs spec'd for the lift and rpm, the valve to piston clearance was a little on the tight side, but still within acceptable limits, and that was not the problem.

Went to the track for some test and tune last Saturday, after running it, probably a total of 20 minutes at the shop (maybe a little more) while tuning the dominator and timing curve, it sounded stout, running 2.5" home built zoomies, it sounded crisp, sharp, oil pressure was 80 lbs, and yes, we oiled the heck out of it with the drill, oil was spouting out everywhere, before we started it up, and it banged to life on the first kick, MSD6 ignition.

First run at the track, a little hooking-up problem off the line (lightweight roadster certified for 8.50/slower), th400 built for this app, probably a little too much 1st gear for launching, ran a 9.3 at 145 mph, sounded crisp, solid, all the way down the track.

Second run, same thing, just going into the lights, oil prssure light, set for 30 lbs, came on, quick glance at the gage it was dropping fast then BANG the motor blew. Had a diaper on it, so no oil on the track. #3 rod sticking through the side of the pan.

Tore it down that nite, heads look good, no problem there, although one or two pistons looked like they might have been barely kissing the intake valves, that's where our tightest clearance was, so that would down the road have caused us problems, but not this time.

When the dist. was pulled, a MSD billet unit, the lower 0-ring where the oil passage passes by the dist. shaft housing, was missing! I know darn well it was on there when the dist. was put in the hole!

So my question, other then where did that 0-ring go (haven't found it yet), is that is there enough oil leakage past that dist. shaft housing to cause the motor to fail?

We have not pulled the pan yet to see the bottom, but there is bearing residue in the drained oil, and some up in the block valley, makes me think that part of the motor was not getting enough oil due to that missing 0-ring, and eventually a rod bearing failed, losing the rod and grenading the motor at the top end at about 6000 rpm....

Will report back what we find on the bottom end, it just seems suspicious that the 0-ring was missing and an otherwise solid running motor should blow on the second run!!!

Any ideas there??
Aloha,
Willy
 
its VERY unlikely that the lack of an O-ring on the lower distributor band opened up the lower oil passage,
distrib-o-ring.jpg


BEVELS ON BLOCK DISTRIBUTOR MOUNTING HOLE GREATLY EXAGGERATED FOR CLARITY
if your distributor uses O-rings you should use at least the upper o-ring



the distributor seats in to form part of the oil passage in the block, far enough to drop the oil pressure enough to cause bearing damage,obviously youll want to measure the outside diameter of the lower distributor and the block, but theres commonly only a few thousands clearance, (btw the broken o-rings usually found ground up in the oil filter, as its been thru the oil pump gears, or stuck on the oil pump pick-up screen) Ive had those o-rings come off and some guys deliberately leave the lower o-ring off to provide more oil spray on the distributor & cam gear interface
 
When we ran the oil pump with the drill, the shaft and guide we used fits in like the distributor does, and that guide does not have any o-rings in it, and it does leak a little bit, but we were still able to get 60 lbs with the drill, so yes, we agree, that 0-ring couldn't have been the cause of our failure....

Well, we found the problem after tear down and some close looking, and the oil pump and pan had plenty of capacity, normally it would not be a problem, BUT.....

The #8 intake rocker stud pulled out of the head, allowing the solid roller lifter to lift up out of it's bore enough to open up that oil passage and dump oil fast enough to empty the pan and lose all oil pressure, and then #3 rod seized first, they were all starting to go, from the front to the rear as the mains/rods all lost oil, starting from the front, the rear mains and #7,8 rod bearings were least damaged, if any!

Darwin%27s%20Blown%20Motor%202s%20apr%202011.JPG


Darwin%27s%20Blown%20Motor%203s%20apr%202011.JPG


Darwin%27s%20Blown%20Motor%205s%20apr%202011.JPG


These Shafiroff blocks are machined to allow the use of these lifters with the straight tie bars, so there is not much "extra" room for the lifters to come up out of their bores before it starts dumping oil. Normally not a problem, but when the rocker stud pulled up enough to allow the lifter to clear the bore, it dumped oil faster than it could drain back, causing the pump to run out of oil....

Guess it's time for a new block, this block is not all that bad looking, I think it could be rebuilt for street use, but the bottom skirt of #3 cylinder bore is pretty beat up, I couldn't want to race with it, but at least the rod went out the pan, not the side of the block....

LINK to More Pix Here!
Aloha,
Willy
 
OUCH! thats gotta hurt!
use of ARP ROCKER STUDS, with loc-tite on the threads, and rocker stud girdles usually prevent that because they keep the rocker studs supported on both ends greatly reducing rocker stud flex, and stress, and reduce the stress on the head casting, significantly reducing the chances of rocker stud failure.
while everyone tends to have component failures at times ,there are ways to lower the potential for major failures,like a rock stable valve train, lots of cooling oil flow, like installing an oil pressure switch that kills the ignition if pressure falls under 10 psi, and having an oil accumulator,and rocker stud girdles to lower the potential for busted rocker studs,and similar cascading problems they can cause like your pictures so clearly display. and theres other things that can be done.
most rocker studs only bust if they start to back out on the threads, as the hex-head base, and push-rod guide plates tend to spread the stress unless the studs beginning to back out on the lower stud threads.

Darwin's%20Blown%20Motor%202s%20apr%202011.JPG

arp-235-7205_w.jpg

hrs-90121p_w.jpg


drt-64110001.jpg


rsg1.jpg

rsg2.jpg


rsg3.jpg

having a REV-KIT that retains the lifters in their bores, to maintain oil pressure, even if the rocker comes loose or push rods breaks is a good idea
revkit1.jpg



related info
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1280&p=6082&hilit=accumulator#p6082

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187
 
grumpyvette said:

We had the girdle shown above , it works well to stabilize the side to side "walk" of the rocker arm studs, but does not clamp tightly enough to prevent pullout. This is the second time we have seen this with this type of girdle at our track, this type of girdle just does just not clamp tight enough for heavy duty valve springs and high lift to prevent this type of aluminum pull-out. We think we should have drilled and done a quality thread-sert on each stud to make sure they were solidly "planted" in the aluminum heads. You can see the head aluminum on the threads, it just sheared off and the stud pulled out......

We had around .800 lift at the valve and around 800 lbs spring force at full open according to the owner, I didn't work on any of that part of this motor so wasn't sure but knew it was heavy duty, and that apparently was enough to pull out even with the girdle. I am sure the girdle was properly installed.

I am familiar with accumulators, I am a retired agricultural machinery engineer that has designed, built and operated hundreds of pieces of specialized farm machinery for the sugar cane and pineapple industries here in Hawaii over the last 45 years, and I have used accumulators a lot to keep oil feed rates up for both hydraulic attachments as well as motor oil feed. Just hadn't thought of applying that technology to a race car, but as I am only recently venturing into these levels of racing motors, I guess I need to adjust my thinking and address these issues, good thoughts all, and thanks!!!

We are in the market for a new block, and the owner is thinking "BIG".....
let's see how all this works out.
Meanwhile, I am still working on my '67 Olds 425 6-71 blown 55 Chevy gasser, hope to make my own debut at the Memorial Day races.....
Aloha,
"2Loose" Willy
Maui
 
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