fuel pump push rods

[grumpyvette]

If your using a stock STYLE mechanical fuel pump the lever that works the pump with a push rod off the front cam fuel pump eccentric, you can use a light weight polymer push rod that has a lot less potential for friction and wear on both the cam eccentric and push rod lever is a low cost modification, OR if you choose to go with the much more expensive custom roller tip fuel pump push rod it can further reduce friction but a roller must be kept in alignment or it will quickly destroy the cam, so the alignment bolt and slot arrangement is required, personally Ive seen no advantage for the use of the roller push rod, in dyno results but that just indicated its friction level is not huge, but theres no doubt that at least in theory its potentially reducing friction

while your worrying about your new billet steel roller cam tearing up your old soft distributor gear, you might want to think about swapping to a bronze tip fuel pump push-rod to prevent excessive wear on that expensive billet steel cam core on the front end ,

one end of the fuel pump push rod rides the cam surface on a roller wheel on the spinning cam eccentric lobe,that is ground off center of the cam center line, the other end of the fuel pump push rod rides on the fuel pump lever ,and pushes the fuel pump lever actuating the pump
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-03875/?rtype=10

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-94475/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4609

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2310/overview/make/chevrolet
youll need the fuel pump mounting adapter plate and gaskets

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-42493?seid=srese1&gclid=COWu1Lu61MYCFYsWHwodwNANjQ

watch this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XiuiyBA ... ure=relmfu

read these links

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5365&p=16067&hilit=fuel+pump+need#p16067

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1939

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5365&p=16067#p16067

 

[grumpyvette]

the stock steel fuel pump push rods are heavy and under higher rpms tend to wear the cam lobe and bounce causing fuel delivery issues as the inertial weight over comes the pumps return spring, at higher rpms.
bronze tip fuel pump push rods in my experience tend to flare or rivet on the tip ,expending over time making removal very difficult, a roller tip rod in theory has advantages, of low friction
or if you want to keep cost a bit lower go carbon fiber, low friction and much lower weight., and reasonable cost, all advantages

theres also light weight carbon fiber push rods
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-94475/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4609

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-94475/

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5365&p=16067&hilit=fuel+pump+need#p16067

How To Choose The Proper Fuel Pump Pushrod
Installing a larger, more aggressive camshaft is a great way to increase horsepower, boost torque and get better performance out your engine. But for everything to work properly and to keep your engine safe, there are other factors that need to be considered, such as valve springs and distributor gear material. If you are upgrading your camshaft in a vehicle equipped with a mechanical fuel pump, you may also need to upgrade your fuel pump pushrod for compatibility with your new cam.

The three most common fuel pump pushrods from COMP® are steel tipped, bronze tipped and roller tipped. roller tip has at least in theory far less friction, if properly installed

Many first time engine builders are simply unaware of the need to match camshaft and pushrod materials. But failing to upgrade or selecting the wrong pushrod tip can lead to lobe wear that will damage your new camshaft, void its warranty and send metal shavings through the engine. COMP Cams® offers several fuel pump pushrod options that will prevent this damage from occurring and help maximize the power potential of your application.

Even though it is sometimes overlooked, selecting the correct fuel pump pushrod is actually a very straightforward process. Much like selecting the correct distributor gear, you need to know what material your new camshaft is made from. Is it steel, austemptered ductile iron or cast iron? The material of your fuel pump pushrod must be softer than the material of your camshaft. This allows for proper mating and prevents excessive wear on the cam’s fuel pump lobe. This is true for both flat tappet and roller camshafts. The three most common fuel pump pushrod materials are bronze, steel and ceramic. However, COMP Cams® does not recommend ceramic pushrods as they are too easy to accidentally damage before and during installation.

When a mechanical fuel pump is run with a cast iron camshaft, the OEM steel pushrod is often safe to use. However, it is always a good idea to double check the pushrod material and condition when installing your new cam. Fuel pump pushrods are designed to wear down instead of grinding into the camshaft. Taking the time to replace the pushrod during the cam installation will help prevent problems in the future. COMP Cams® carries several stock replacement and high performance steel tipped pushrods if you need to replace a worn stock one or if you no longer have the factory pushrod.

If you are using a high pressure or high volume fuel pump with a cast iron cam, you will need to upgrade to bronze tipped rods. Performance fuel pumps exert more pressure on the pushrod, which in turn presses harder against the camshaft fuel pump lobe. The bronze tip adds a protective cushion. However, it will need to be checked periodically to ensure the bronze tip has not been worn off, leaving exposed steel rubbing on the lobe.

Upgrading to a steel roller cam core or austempered ductile iron core requires upgrading the fuel pump pushrod to one with a bronze tip. When the two surfaces rub against each other, the softer bronze tip will ride smoothly across the lobe instead of grinding into the cam material.

All bronze tipped fuel pump pushrods from COMP Cams® are black oxide finished for wear and corrosion resistance. However, this means you have to look carefully to see which end of the pushrod should come in contact with the camshaft. The black oxide does not adhere as well to the bronze tip as it does to the rest of the pushrod. Thus, the end with the thinner, semitransparent coating should face the camshaft.

Some applications may also require a unique pushrod solution. For example, COMP Cams® manufactures a steel rod with roller tip pushrod for Small Block Chevy applications. These blocks have a special area where these unique pushrods are slotted in place to keep the roller tip oriented properly.

Finally, if your new cam is going in a high performance application that runs very high RPM, a lightweight hollow tube pushrod will help reduce overall mass. COMP Cams® carries hollow tube fuel pump pushrods with both steel and bronze tips.

Correctly matching your fuel pump pushrod to the type of camshaft in your application is an often overlooked yet critical step when building an engine. For assistance in selecting the right fuel pump pushrod for your new cam, call the COMP Cams® CAM HELP® Line a 1.800.999.0853 or visit http://www.compcams.com.


theres also light weight carbon fiber push rods
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-94475/overview/

 

[grumpyvette]

cheap fuel pump choice

I'm Looking to buy a 80gph mechanical fuel pump for my '66 396. Specs:
Headers
Holley 750
Mild cam
Alum intake
0.060 bore
TH400 trans
I Don't race it. At all.
So does a 80gph pump on my setup require a regulator?
If so, will it then need a return line?
I've looked at stock pumps. Most are old NOS, and I prefer new. Much better choices at 80gph and up.
Thoughts?
Thanks
I found and bought this:
Link

At that price, I figured I didn't have much to lose.

always think through your choices in the components, youll use, the parts you select WILL have a pronounced effect on what your engines power potential and durability.
a bit of research before spending your cash will prevent a host of issues you don,t want too deal with later from ever occuring
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-M4530 $22

Free Flow Rate: 30 gph

Maximum Pressure (psi): 5.5 to 6.5 psi


that mechanical pump you linked too is rated at
30gph,UNRESTRICTED ,
at the actual operating back pressure of 5PSI it will flow measurably LESS thats very unlikely to supply over 400hp, yeah, you probably failed to read the specs correctly, but you might want to consider a different choice even if your never going to race the car


something like this is in my opinion a better option
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-250022-1 $56

Free Flow Rate: 110 gph

Maximum Pressure (psi): 8 psi

READ THE LINKED INFO, it will prove useful

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1939&p=5137#p5137

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=635

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5365&p=16067#p16067

and yes no mater what parts you select too use you'll find a dozen guys posting on-the internet,that swear their engine uses that component and makes in excess of 500 hp.
not 1 in 100 of those internet heros have actually dyno tested the results,
use the posted linked charts and test the pressure and flow rates IN YOUR APPLICATION

fuel pressure and fuel flow volume are two totally different factors
the needle/seat, in a carbs float bowl,controls the fuel level by opening and closing the needle valve, in the fuel bowl, and its designed to and generally can control fuel inlet pressures below 8 psi, the manual fuel pumps designed to supply a constant 6-8 psi in most cases
(but generally works best at 5-6 psi)volume of flow only come into play once the needle valve opens and that relates to how quickly the floats being raised back to the point the needle seat closes

YOU GENERALLY SET THE FLOATS TO JUST LET FUEL WET THE SITE PLUGS LOWER THREADS, BY ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE SEAT HEIGHT IN THE FLOAT BOWL

AGAIN PRESSURE AND FLOW RATE ARE TOTALLY DIFFERENT FACTORS

the normal manual fuel pump supplys a fuel pressure at the carb inlet port that can and probably does vary from 6-8 psi, the carbs needle valve will allow fuel to flow into the fuel bowl when the fuel level drops enough to allow the needle valve too open, the potential flow volume has little effect on the carb AS LONG AS ITS SUFFICIENT to keep up with demand and supply the carb with more than enough fuel to allow the floats to shut the needle valve when the carbs fuel bowls fill, having a surplus potential flow volume hurts nothing as long as the pressure can,t over come the floats weight ant push open the needle valve, having LESS than the required flow volume when the fuel bowl float is allowing the needle valve too fully open results in a lean miss fire at higher rpms
yes there ARE some aftermarket manual fuel pumps that produce 15 psi that will flood a carb, without a fuel pressure regulator with a return line design, in use.