Funny things found rebuilding a carb.

chromebumpers

chromebumpers

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
The vacuum line that connects the choke pull off to the carb base was clogged. I couldn't figure what this hard blockage was until I ran the hose (only piece I had) under hot water and used a straight wire when a little ball bearing pushed out. What reason would somebody put a ball bearing in there?
Add to that 2 horseshoe magnets in the base of the fuel bowl- I believe where from those small toy track cars. I 'd really like to know what the reason was behind that trick.
 
I'm going to be a freaking genius about these Rochester carbs. I discover something else every time I come to an issue. While flipping the carb around I discovered that there is another spot for a cast in carb Id. This time in air horn. This number is inside in the corner and it says 7046251, which means loosely it is for a 49 state, 1976 manual trans, Olds. The carb Venturi body's I'd is 7043062 which translates to a 1973 Chevy with a manual trans. All for a '68 automatic Pontiac.
So while I was searching for a rebuild kit for the carb's mid section with the carb Id vertically stamped on the outside passenger side. - The top, with the float, intake needle and seat, accelerator, power valve was for another car!
How in the world do you measure for float positions on the division of non-smog Vs. pre-smog car carb parts?
There is an idle adjustment that has a passage on the 73 carb that isn't there on the mating of the air horn for the 76 carb. Is this even understandable?
Somehow I suspect that someone's job was secure at Rochester as long as they could keep changing little bullshit parts and making a different carb for each of the 214 freaken GM model cars and trucks sold between the mid '50s and the late '80s!
 
It worked before the Rochester 2bbl Richard on the 1968 Pontiac 400.
Just rebuild and install.
 
Have you looked on DC Lately Richard ?
Been following Autowizs thread SNAP ON BOROSCOPE.

I own a Snap On Wireless Boroscope likewise.

Read the thread in DC C3 Tech.
The story don't Add Up.
Owner never Raced the Car.
Never over Revved.
1700 miles on engine.
1-1/2 years later.

Everyone is an expert but don't know Jack Shit.

Grumpy does and put a picture of a 572 BBC.

ALSO NO ONE ON DC STILL STREET RACED A HELLCAT AND BEAT IT.
WON THE MONEY $$$$.
 
yes you can cure or at least have a great deal of fun if your checking account balance allows you the option.
ignore logic and buy & install something that makes it all better
809-19201334_freeship.jpg

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performanc...9&cadevice=c&gclid=COvY_8OVk8gCFc2PHwodHEEPzg

http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/big-block-zz-572-720-r.html

http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/big-block-zz-572-620.html

http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Eng...evy-572ci-745HP-710TQ-Engine/1321870/10002/-1

http://unitedracingengines.com/1072...kage-call-for-internet-special-pricing-promo/

1072_1__53685.1444763745.1280.1280.jpg

1072-dyno-report.jpg
 
I have Kids and Married too Grumpy.
Have to Feed them 1st.

Engine Teardown required on DC.
Boroscope pics don't tell all.
Check the Valveguide to Valvestem clearances.
Too tight plausible .
8 mm valve stems in AFR 195 Heads.
Need a Calibrated 0-1" micrometer that reads to 1/10,000 th of an inch.
And a Snap Guage Set.
Or even better a Special Small Bore Dial Bore Guage Set that reads down to .0001" too.
 
I own both.
Real nice Micrometer set 0-5" and 1/10,000 th accuracy.
And a very hard to find Master small bore dial bore guage set accurate to .0001" .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top