getting car jacked/ security issues

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
well the first thing you need to realize is no car is worth your life, but its stupid to make stealing your car easy, so Id suggest a few deterrents
always installing a steering wheel lock if you exit the car, park in a locked garage with an alarm if possible,in a fenced yard with several dogs,park other cars to make moving your vette a P.I.T.A. at night...
Ive got multi layered triple redundant alarms..., but you don,t need to go that far,at a minimum you need to lock your car and use some deterrents ,motion sensors and lights that activate with motion, beepers in the house that tell you when doors are opened, or some method of detering theft, alarm stickers might help but don,t tell them the correct brand or type as it makes disabling it easier

heres a few tips

http://www.2sportscars.com/prevent-car-theft.shtml

http://www.crimedoctor.com/autotheft1.htm

http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/security.html

http://www.insurance.com/quotes/article.aspx/Top_10_Ways_To_Prevent_Auto_Theft/artid/150

http://lojack.com/ comes instantly to mind

http://www.jab-tech.com/product.php?productid=3985

one example, but theres better choices, (electric fuel pump wired to this power supply) so the car can drive off but not get far leaving you time to call the cops

if you normally carry concealed KNOW your rights! you don,t want to spend years in jail for shooting some slimeball stealing your car.

IN FLORIDA its LEGAL too shoot car jackers,caught in the act of armed car jacking, in CALIF Id doubt thats true given the liberals in the government, but in any case ID carry a cell phone and report the theft instantly as they drove off even if they did get the car.

personally ID run a 10 ga copper wire along the frame and connect it to a dimmer switch I installed under the carpet, up out of the way but accessible with your toe (if you know where to push) so stepping on it would start and stop it providing power to the pump,so it will give you a bit of extra security in that you can make it far more difficult to steal your car, and its not obvious that you are turning on/off the fuel pump
obviously you can get the factory shop manual and make the connections just like the factory pump if you choose too, so the pump comes on when the keys used to start the car,having a lead that only goes hot once the ignitions on, is a better option for most guys so its best to connect to a power lead supply that only goes hot once the ignitions on and remember to push the button to activate the pump, or de activate it as you, enter or exit the car, but either way the cars fuel pump will not run when the keys off, if you get absent minded, and you have the option of de-activating the pump if you park the car for extra security,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-80150/Application/?prefilter=0
yes you could connect the feed directly to the battery but youll need to REMEMBER to start and stop the pump circuit or you'll run the battery dead, or the car won,t start until you remember to turn on the pump IF you turned it off,when you exited the car but having a hidden switch , makes it so you can park the car, and anyone even if they take your keys in a car jacking wont get all that far, PROVIDED you make it a habit to touch the switch as you exit the car (just an option)
(having a small light on the dash under the fuel pressure gauge that indicating power to the pump wired into the circuit helps, you remember to turn on the pump)
 
IF your thinking of building a garage, do the research and planing in detail, DON,T TRUST CONTACTORS, will do what they say or when they say,
think thru what you want and build it to your specs but be aware it will generally cost at least TWICE as much as any quick ESTIMATES you get from contactors to have it built CORRECTLY, contractors generally bid low and hit you with an endless list of costly upgrade costs if you want decent quality materials and workmanship.
I got estimates from 90K-180K and ALL of them would have been vastly inferior to the quality of materials and work I insisted be used and done.
insist on verifying ALL materials used and dates and costs and insist on due dates.
talk to the plan engineer, it costs only a bit more to get far stronger materials the first time but a fortune to upgrade later
if your getting a lift make sure the concrete thickness and strenght exceeds the suggested minimums by a significant margin for safety.
specify every last minute detail in writing and get a contact with material cost and dates specified and all local ordinaces met or exceeded down to the smallest details
example
if your getting roof trusses, have a local engineer approve and sign off on the prints,have the local inspectors approve BEFORE ordering them,get the size of the wood specified (2x4 or 2x8)the type of wood,(PINE,OAK,CEADER,MAPLE, FIND OUT WHATS BEST AND INSIST ON THAT) the number of braces, the angle and type of fasteners, the the load ratings, the type of straps used in the tie beam, the depth of concrete used the local ordanaces,who pays for permits and inspections,the spacing between trusses, the angles the type of roof, (HIP,A-FRAME etc) when it will be delivered, ETC.

this threads got some older pictures of my garage (36ft deep x 74 ft wide x 16 ft tall) it cost about 120K but it has a tile bathroom, lift,etc. and you could not build it today for that cost as materials have gone up

threads with useful info

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=116

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=297

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=867

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=278

and be aware your property taxes will go up a good deal!:
 
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