GRUMPYVETTE and OTHERS?
Lot of you Know I built a new motor for my 86 about a year ago.
I has been a pain In you know what.
But after working most of the bugs out of it I still fighting transmission problems.
I have a new trans on the way so I started to pull the trans out getting everything ready for it I also still have a oil leak that I thought was coming from the rear of the motor.
I also found out when pulling the trans the converter they said they put in the car is not the one I paid for thats a whole different story.
The oil leak from the timing cover just spreading to the rear of the motor.
So as long as I have to pull the front of the motor apart I am going to put a hotter cam in it the one in there now is a Howards 214/214 .447 /.477 lift at 290/290 Duration with 111 CL.
I also have 195 Trick flow heads and 22# injectors with 9.75 to 1 compression.
307 rear end.
Edenbrock Hi Flow intake and SPL runners.
I was thinking to go with a LPE 219/219 Cam I read with a good tune It should pass smog.
Or is there a better choice for a new cam if so what I need to pass CA smog laws.
I looked at the LT4 and the ZZ9 I just don't want to make another mistake get this combo right again.
I also just order a new set of CC full roller rockers Steel I want to get rid of my CMH brand rockers.
I know I have to change springs for the extra lift of a hotter cam do the swap from flat tappet to a roller cam at least I dont have to worry about using Zinc in my oil with a roller cam.
Ater the motor rebuild I felt the motor was weak off the bottom I know the trans did not have enough stall to it the guy told me I had a 2200 stall but I think more like a 1600 what still is the best with a 219/219 cam is 2500 stall enough.
and will the 219/219 be a good working combo for me it a DD for now. ?"
the cam you select will also effect the stall speed on the converter you'll needed to match it, ....with a 3.07 rear gear Id go with the milder 214 duration as about maximum, and even thats pushing things on a California smog/emission checked engine,a 2500 rpm stall converter will work well with that, the stock stall converter won,t be near ideal.. you can go with the 219 dur bot your not likely to get the full benefits without a 3.54-3.73:1 rear gear and a 2500-2700rpm stall converter
you mentioned that the current converters "NOT WHAT YOU PAID FOR" and "youve got oil leaks"
well, Im sorry to say this but theres more than a few shops that do that kind of charge and switch B.S. and less than quality work, everyplace makes some mistakes but if you didn,t get the parts you paid for you obviously got cheated and Ive seen more than one guy fighting what he was 100% sure was cam or tuning issues that were 100% caused by some shyster thief installing the wrong, cheaper ,or his original parts and charging for new parts that were never installed
thats one reason Ive always stressed learning to do your own work and INSISTING on getting all my old parts back.
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1718&p=11956&hilit=rear+seal#p11956
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=321&p=3007#p3007
Lot of you Know I built a new motor for my 86 about a year ago.
I has been a pain In you know what.
But after working most of the bugs out of it I still fighting transmission problems.
I have a new trans on the way so I started to pull the trans out getting everything ready for it I also still have a oil leak that I thought was coming from the rear of the motor.
I also found out when pulling the trans the converter they said they put in the car is not the one I paid for thats a whole different story.
The oil leak from the timing cover just spreading to the rear of the motor.
So as long as I have to pull the front of the motor apart I am going to put a hotter cam in it the one in there now is a Howards 214/214 .447 /.477 lift at 290/290 Duration with 111 CL.
I also have 195 Trick flow heads and 22# injectors with 9.75 to 1 compression.
307 rear end.
Edenbrock Hi Flow intake and SPL runners.
I was thinking to go with a LPE 219/219 Cam I read with a good tune It should pass smog.
Or is there a better choice for a new cam if so what I need to pass CA smog laws.
I looked at the LT4 and the ZZ9 I just don't want to make another mistake get this combo right again.
I also just order a new set of CC full roller rockers Steel I want to get rid of my CMH brand rockers.
I know I have to change springs for the extra lift of a hotter cam do the swap from flat tappet to a roller cam at least I dont have to worry about using Zinc in my oil with a roller cam.
Ater the motor rebuild I felt the motor was weak off the bottom I know the trans did not have enough stall to it the guy told me I had a 2200 stall but I think more like a 1600 what still is the best with a 219/219 cam is 2500 stall enough.
and will the 219/219 be a good working combo for me it a DD for now. ?"
the cam you select will also effect the stall speed on the converter you'll needed to match it, ....with a 3.07 rear gear Id go with the milder 214 duration as about maximum, and even thats pushing things on a California smog/emission checked engine,a 2500 rpm stall converter will work well with that, the stock stall converter won,t be near ideal.. you can go with the 219 dur bot your not likely to get the full benefits without a 3.54-3.73:1 rear gear and a 2500-2700rpm stall converter
you mentioned that the current converters "NOT WHAT YOU PAID FOR" and "youve got oil leaks"
well, Im sorry to say this but theres more than a few shops that do that kind of charge and switch B.S. and less than quality work, everyplace makes some mistakes but if you didn,t get the parts you paid for you obviously got cheated and Ive seen more than one guy fighting what he was 100% sure was cam or tuning issues that were 100% caused by some shyster thief installing the wrong, cheaper ,or his original parts and charging for new parts that were never installed
thats one reason Ive always stressed learning to do your own work and INSISTING on getting all my old parts back.
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1718&p=11956&hilit=rear+seal#p11956
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=321&p=3007#p3007