Head and Cam Swap, 82 CFI

Drawmain said:
I got the throttle bodies balanced, filled up with premium and went for a spin. Great throttle response, no more stumble. Good torque in the low to mid range, I picked a good cam for this combo. I'm very happy with how this engine runs. Thanks again for all the help!
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I'M sure most of the people reading that post won,t remember the cam,or be willing to thumb back thru 11 plus pages at this point, let alone recall the rest of the components like heads, intake you used ,rear gear ratio, transmission, engine displacement and compression ratio , so if you re-post the list, of components used, its probably going to be rather helpful, as will comments on where in the power band you see the best power
 
Good point, Grumpy, here's the list:

L83 SBC 350 2 bolt main
700r4 Transmission
2.87:1 rear

Renegade manifold
Lunati Voodoo cam, 256/262 advertised duration, flat tappet (213/219 @ .050)
Scat rods, full floating pins, forged
DSS forged flat top Pistons, .030 oversize, two valve relief 1.560 compression distance
Original block bored .030 over
Original crank turned 10/10
Harland Sharp 1.6 ratio roller rockers
Dart SHP Heads, 200cc intake, 72 cc chambers, assembled, 1.437 dual springs
SCE Copper head gaskets, .020 compressed thickness (to maintain proper quench) Part #511152
Fel Pro 1205 intake gaskets
Melling High Volume Oil pump with new shaft
Trick Flow 7.75" Hardened 5/16" Pushrods
Stock unmodified ECM

Approx. 9.4:1 Static compression ratio
Approx 7.88:1 Dynamic compression ratio
Approx. .045 quench

As of today I have put 50 miles on the engine since cam break-in.
No detonation issues running 93 octane pump gas and timing set at 10 degrees (with EST bypassed)
Initial drives show power comes on from off idle to around 3800 rpm, later testing will expand on this (still breaking engine in I haven't gone beyond 3800 rpm). I expect the power band to be in the low to mid-range. The operating range for the cam I chose is 1,000 to 5.500 rpm (as advertised by Lunati). As I drive the car more I'll have more information. It is definitely more powerful than a stock L83 Crossfire engine, and more powerful than a stock L83 with a ported stock manifold.
 
I'm reasonably sure youll have noticed that those
"HUGE 200cc heads" that many guys will have warned you about not using or
previously predicted too "AVOID OR THEY WILL KILL ALL YOUR LOW RPM TORQUE"
did nothing like that, and your engine is probably producing far better torque than the stock cross fire engine ever did ,from 1200rpm and up! and BTW the power curve SHOULD continue to increase to at least 5000rpm, which is easily 1000 rpm or more than the original engine ever could
 
Drawmain said:
SCT Copper head gaskets, .020 compressed thickness (to maintain proper quench)
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Did you mean "SCE" and do you remember the part number? If you can't edit your previous post to correct it, assuming it needs to be changed, I can if you want me to?

 
Fixed it :)

Grumpy you're right, I didn't lose any torque by going with the bigger intake ports. The motor pulls soooo good, I get a big smile every time I drive it. :D
 
Your goals was never 11's & 10's & 9's & 8's.
I have been talking Street Racing & Drag Racing 1/4 mile since 2008 on the Net.
Even my Friend Eds 5.0 stang runs 10.50's when the Supercharger belt breaks.
Just 306 cubic inched. 10.0 wide tire out back.
Low 8 second car since 2004.

Everything comes to truth Drag Racing.

Your Vette has no intention to do so.
2.87 Rear gears to begin with.
 

Thanks for that part number! I wasn't aware that SCE made a head gasket like that, wonder if it new since I bought mine. I bought the P11152, which is .021 inches compressed. If I had known about the one you bought I would have gone with it, it's only .001 difference, but it would have put me at a quench distance of .041 inches.

 
Another Hotrod test is see if you can burnoff the Rear tires for an entire 1/4 mile.
Arnie Beswick can. He's famous doing it since 1965.
 
Brian you are right about the use for my car, no racing for me, just fun power to use tooling around and a fun road trip car when I get the opportunity. It will be a fun street cruiser :)
 
Indycars said:

Thanks for that part number! I wasn't aware that SCE made a head gasket like that, wonder if it new since I bought mine. I bought the P11152, which is .021 inches compressed. If I had known about the one you bought I would have gone with it, it's only .001 difference, but it would have put me at a quench distance of .041 inches.
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Thank Grumpy, he's the one that found it. It was in an earlier post when I was still collecting parts.
 
Over 300 miles on the motor now. Effortless acceleration :) The plan for this build worked out great, I have a great time driving even just taking it easy for now. After break in is done I will take the car and have it dyno'd so I can post some numbers.
 
this is what I posted earlier in the thread and while you made a few minor changes it should still reflect about what the engine combos flywheel hp should be so figure a 18% drive line loss I kind of expect to see near 310-315hp and 350ft lbs or better from the current engine at the rear wheels vs what the stock engine made posted below


The STOCK L83 engine makes 205 horsepower at 4,300 rpm and 290 foot-pounds of torque at 2,800 rpm
'
heres what DD2000 soft ware predicts that 200cc dart head, renegade intake /lunati cam with 1.6:1 roller rocker and header combo produced at the flywheel, so any concern over large port heads killing low rpm torque should be dismissed as the vastly better flow easily compensates, now the roughly 350hp and 400 ft lbs of torque may not sound impressive until you realize thats probably 100 more hp and 50 more ft lbs at the flywheel and significantly more power you can feel at the rear wheels than the stock engine produces
84dart.png
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Passed the 500 mile mark today. Changed the oil and added the zinc additive to protect my cam. I'm still amazed at how little go pedal I have to use to get the same performance as the old stock engine. Torque is definitely up from before, the acceleration is much better. I think the Desktop Dyno prediction is close, can you run it again with 9.5 compression? I think that's closer to what I'm running.

I got a CEL so I checked codes, it was throwing code 43 (again, used to do that before the rebuild) so I hooked up to my laptop and datalogged using WinALDL. Knock count was zero and stayed zero, so I think I either have a bad knock sensor or a torched wire. I'll sort that out this weekend. There is no spark knock, no ticking or knocking in the motor at all, I've been all over that motor with a stethoscope, it sounds like a sewing machine. I did have to adjust the exhaust on the driver's side, it was contacting the crossmember at the transmission and rattling at idle, but that's been resolved. The CEL is not constant, it comes and goes. If its making any noise I can't hear it. I'll know more Saturday. Meanwhile the motor runs awesome and I can relax and lean into it a little more. Next oil change in 1500 miles, then I'm going to the 3000 mile oil change schedule.
 
ok I re calculated the DD2000 and made two changes I boosted the compression to 9.5 and changed the previous ERROR in the intake type from dual to single plane as that renegade has a common plenum, the changes resulted in even better predicted
power , but keep in mind that predicted output at the flywheel, NOT at the rear wheels ,so the 405 ft lbs and 373 hp would most likely result in about 332-350 ft lbs and about 325-340 rear wheel hp, notice the software predicts it should pull fairly strong up untill about 6200rpm where it will drop off.
84cro.png
 
your welcome, it will be interesting to see the numbers if you get it dyno tested, its sure to be an improvement over the factory numbers
 
I did a wot run yesterday. The car pulls hard all the way up to 5400 rpm where I got out of the throttle. It put a big smile on my face! It still had more past that, too.
 

The best part is you can do it over and over and over and....... !!! :p

What do you expect your redline to be?

 
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