header paints and coatings

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
most guys in this spot have had a set of crappy looking rusted headers on a car at some time, and while thats almost UN-avoidable with cheap UN-coated headers there are ceramic coatings and paints that reduce or retard corrosion on headers.
now there are both company's that can professionally coat headers with a thin durable coat of ceramics, almost like porcelain, and paint or powder coat like products that can be self applied that are either baked on or cures with engine exhaust heat.
Ive seen several guys sand blast older sets of headers that looked like crap, and several have used several different brands of do it yourself paint on header coatings and while long term results varied wildly. between the products they all tended to look far better for at least a few weeks and in a few cases several years.
yes you tend to get better results from professionally re-coated headers, but think thru the price/value, it might make sense to recoat $1500 custom headers for $300-$600 but it would make no sense on standard cheap $300 headers and be a total waste of time and effort on $180 bargain cheap headers
like with most coatings its surface prep and following directions that pays in longer life on the headers


read this related thread and related links
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dun-Righ ... 0691252371

viewtopic.php?f=56&t=5443

http://www.centralctcoatings.com/

http://www.performancecoatingsplus.com/ ... tings.html

http://www.performancecoatings.com/headercoatings.html

http://www.amr-coatings.com/x-style-headers.php

http://www.zircotec.com/page/performance-colours--2-/96

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http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/hi ... index.html

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http://www.coolconceptspc.com/ceramic_coatings.html


What are Ceramic Coatings?

Ceramics are a “wet†process coating that, when properly applied, bar excessive heat radiation with a barrier that reflects the heat instead of absorbing it. This prevents the eventual destruction of the outer coating and the part itself. For instance, a ceramic coat applied to the inner and outer walls of tubular headers will seal the tube’s body with a thermal barrier and reduce heat transfer. This relieves the steel tube from excessive heat absorption and reduces cracking by preventing excessive expansion/contraction of the part. This barrier also protects the base metal itself, preserving the part and extending its service life. Today’s ceramic coatings are effective up to temperatures of 2000F and come in a variety of colors and finishes. Test data has shown radiated temperature drops in excess of 130F between coated and uncoated exhaust parts. Trade magazines, like HOT ROD, have done articles on ceramic coated headers, showing similar temperature drops when comparing coated and uncoated headers. A secondary benefit from ceramic coatings is its capability to seal the part from the elements. This creates a rust/corrosion resistant coat that rivals the best anti-rust coatings on the market. Ceramic coats, however, will outperform those coatings when high heat is applied.

How do Ceramics compare to Powdercoats?

Benefits of Powder Coating:
• Wide variety of colors to choose from. Virtually every color imaginable can be purchased, along with a variety of finishes, i.e. metallics, translucents, flats, gloss, wrinkle and hammered.
• Durable coats. Powder coats are very durable and chip-resistant and outperform paints in many ways.
• Multiple coats can be laid on, covering minor imperfections in the surface of the part.
• Powders are generally inexpensive compared to ceramics.

Drawbacks of Powder Coating:
• Powders cannot withstand high heat. Most powder coats begin to fail when the temperature of the part reaches 500F or more. There are some high temp powders available that can last up to 900F. We do not recommend any powdercoat on any exhaust component, or any part that will see heat above 500F.
• Powders do not contain a thermal barrier like ceramics do.
• When powdercoats fail, the coating comes off in big chunks.

Benefits of Ceramics:
• Decent range of colors available, with more coming every year. The most popular colors available are a ceramic “chrome,†semi-gloss black, satin black and aluminum.
• Withstands a wide range of heat. Ceramics really shine where powders or paint cannot. Ceramics generally operate best in the 1100F – 2000F range and are considered “bulletproof†for cast iron manifolds.
• A ceramic coated set of header pipes will last many more years than ones with header paint. Powder coats will not last beyond the first engine start.
• Ceramics block excessive heat radiation, with 130F+ temperature drops recorded by major trade publications like HOT ROD magazine. The thermal protection provided by ceramic coatings will extend the life of other engine components, especially electronics, through reduced exposure to heat. Thermal barriers applied to complete exhaust systems will reduce floorboard and firewall heat.
• Minor performance boost. Dyno tests have revealed power gains of 8-10 hp in a 550 hp engine. This is mainly due to the heat barriers trapping heat inside the header pipes and increasing exhaust velocity. It was also acknowledged that more gains could be had when installed in an engine bay, where hot air robs power. Ceramics may also be applied to internal engine parts, creating less drag and longer burn cycles during engine operation.
• Durable coats. Ceramics are much tougher than paints and match powder in durability.
• Rust protection. Select ceramics provide excellent rust protection against the elements.
• Good chemical resistance.

Drawbacks of Ceramics:
• Smaller selection of colors than powder. While there are many colors available, our experience has shown the silvers, blacks, polishable “chrome†and aluminums are the most reliable colors. There are some metallics, coppers, reds and blues that have recently come out, but as of now they are not very durable. They also hold a lower temperature rating, usually in the 1300F range. A general rule of thumb on ceramics: The prettier they are, the less heat they can take.
• Ceramic colors will go dull or flat. This is common for all ceramic coatings. This is not a failure of the coating. The thermal barriers will still be intact.
• Ceramics are not a high solids filler coat. Ceramics work best with a thin coat, as a thicker one will delaminate and flake off. Rough surfaces cannot not be filled to a smooth finish with ceramic coats. For best results, spend some time improving surface imperfections before bringing your parts in.
• Cost is generally higher than powdercoating.
• Ceramics aren’t appropriate for use on everything. Ceramics perform mainly as a heat barrier, so you wouldn’t want to use it on a part where it would lock heat in an area where you don’t want it.

What are Powder Coatings?

Air Cleaner Valve CoversPowder Clear Coat
• Chemical and corrosion resistant.
• Protects bare cast or a highly polished surface.
• Excellent for marine applications.

Powder Coating
• Wide array of colors available. Many colors in stock.
• Many types of finishes available: Hammered, wrinkle, gloss, flat, translucent, metallic.
• Excellent chemical and corrosion resistance with clear coat.
• Highly durable finish.
• Ideal for any engine part that will not reach 500F+ surface temps. Intake manifolds, water pumps, cylinder heads, brackets, alternator housings, power steering pump cases, valve covers, etc.

http://www.jegs.com/p/VHT/VHT-Flame-Pro ... 3/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/KBS%20Coatings/19 ... /-1?CT=999
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http://www.jetcoat.com/alumcerm.html

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exhaust manifold temps commonly exceed 550F-850F and in many cases the exhaust manifolds, or headers are located very close to the heads and block in some header and manifold designs, so reflected heat is significantly higher than you might imagine near the headers[/b]

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http://www.professionalequipment.com/ex ... ermometer/


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http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=371

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OVERVIEW:
Rust-Oleum® High Heat is a tough protective enamel that renews and protects surfaces subject to heat up to 2000°F (1093°C). This rust-preventive formula is ideal for automotive parts and more.
PRODUCT FEATURES:
Resists heat up to 2000°F
Gas & Oil Resistant
Stops Rust® formula
Any-Angle Spray with Comfort Tip


Ive gotten a few guys emails saying that they found this paint seems to work reasonably well if the headers they are used on are properly cleaned and degreased before the paints applied, obviously you don,t want to be breathing the crap while you blast clean older rusty headers so do so someplace out side preferably in a well ventilated area where crap settles on the lawn as it can be washed into the soil with no long term damage,normally rust and glass beads have no potential damage unless you breath in the dust to an area or enviroment. so use a dust mask.

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http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopp ... 95793.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-80- ... 30972.html



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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog ... r=1&Ntpc=1

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/MOE-02 ... nQod21jA7Q
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spraying a corrosion reducing spray on your exhaust system welds with zinc chromate spray tends to significantly reduce the formation of rust on welds, this tends to extend your exhaust system life expectancy and is highly recommended after welding even on stainless exhaust welds, while its not designed for extremely high heat it works at reducing rust surprisingly well.

are you planing on powder coating or having the headers chrome plated or at least painted?

http://www.afipowder.com/motorsports/ceramic-header-coating-armor-coating-tm/




 
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http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... r_headers/
HERES A RATHER INTERESTING LINK
basically , showing that repeated heating and cooling of steel headers with a coating of ATF tends too form a protective surface of burnt ATF that retards rust forming, if its regularly refreshed, with a re-application, of fresh ATF every few times the cars driven, this is hardly news, spraying light oil on headers retards rust forming, the ATF can be mixed with diesel and sprayed on, or brushed on the headers in my experience .
guys if you care to try this ,the first time you run UN-COATED headers , you get the engine up to temp after brushing the headers with ATF and spray the headers thoroughly again with a mix of about 10% diesel and 90% ATF or MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, (DO IT OUTSIDE and have a garden hose running and handy there will be a great deal of smoke and its not really all that uncommon in some cases for the mix of oily fuel that your spraying on the headers to catch fire, especially if you let the headers get really hot which is a BAD IDEA, so having a hose handy for potential fire suppression in hand is smart)

Id also point out that ceramic coated headers, or use of high temp header paint, provides a far longer lasting and more durable rust barrier, tending to avoid this need for constant maintenance and re-application of ATF,and the coated headers generally run far cooler and are far less likely to burn ignition wire or over heat the engine compartment or oil pan or cause starter failures

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http://www.appliedplastic.com/ceramicexhaust/

http://performancecoatingsplus.com/

http://www.qccoatings.com/ceramiccoating

http://classiccoatings.com/ceramic.html

https://www.jet-hot.com/colors/

not the same but its better than nothing
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c4-84-96/silver-high-temp-coating-pint-eastwood-nd-101684?returnurl=/c4-84-96/?count=45



The Realities of Bright Ceramic Coatings:
Both too rich, too lean or improper timing conditions will kill a set of headers in a matter of minutes. As you can see from the headers below, this engine was fired up a bit lean and the dulling occurred in about 5-10 minutes. As soon as the headers glowed red, it was too late. The shine will never come back to those headers. Unlike the BS that Jet Hot and other shops spin about "interior coatings", these headers were ACTUALLY coated inside with a 2000F thermal barrier in addition to the Bright Ceramic exterior coating and they still turned that quickly....

Temperature and Application Restrictions for Bright Ceramic Coatings:
ALL Bright Ceramics / Metallic Ceramics are rated at 1000F - 1100F metal temp. This translates to approximately 1300F - 1500F EGT. Therefore, they are NOT applicable for almost all Supercharged or Turbo Charged applications...... Too much nitrous can also be a concern. As already discussed, you should not break in a engine with Bright Ceramic Coated headers.

NOTE: this does NOT apply to High Temp Ceramic Coatings which are typically rated at 2000F+. You can break in or run any engine with these coatings without a concern for temps or fine tuning.

Engine Break in - TOO LEAN for 10 minutes
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Supercharged / Turbo Charged applications

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Popular MI Coater on YB that doesn't know NOT to coat a turbo header

http://www.appliedplastic.com/ceramicexhaust/

http://performancecoatingsplus.com/

http://www.qccoatings.com/ceramiccoating

http://classiccoatings.com/ceramic.html

not the same but its better than nothing
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c4-84-96/silver-high-temp-coating-pint-eastwood-nd-101684?returnurl=/c4-84-96/?count=45

High Temp Ceramics - Turbo Housing and piping
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High Temp Ceramics still holding up after being on fire.....
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High Temp Ceramics - all but but bright and white
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__________________
Custom Concepts Performance
Coatings & Components

19330 Mt. Elliott
Detroit, MI 48234
313.369.2447
CCPcoatings.com

info@ccperformance.com
 
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