how many guys regularly visit salvage yards?

[grumpyvette]

Im always amazed at the guys that DON,T use salvage yards , as an occasional parts source, that sensor the dealer says is back ordered and costs you $56 can be as close as a local salvage yard and cost you $8, now you obviously need to know what your looking for and AT! and have the ability to fabricate or work out minor problems matching components, but theres a ton of good used components in salvage yards.Ive found whole engines for less than $300 almost every time, differentials for under $200, interior parts sell darn cheaply and you can frequently get brackets and bolts, and parts like windshield wiper motors or starters, wheels, etc. that are no longer available from the dealer inventory for under $20 .
want sequential flash tail lights , chances are good the parts are available in a local salvage yard and with a bit of creative re-wiring you can get them installed!
want a killer 400hp engine but you can,t come up with the $5K the dealer wants for a new crate engine?, chances are very good that the core engine you want and a rebuild kit can get you more than 400hp for well under 1/2 the total cost in parts and machine work starting with a salvage yard core engine!

bust a rear differential or a transmission and a dealer frequently wants $1500-$4000 or more in parts and hundreds more in labor, a decent salvage yard and KNOWING what your looking for can frequently reduce the cost of getting that car or truck back on the road by 2/3rds

I used to think that was what hot rodding and being a mechanic was mostly about (fixing and modifying cars)! but lately I keep running into guys that think if parts don,t come in a sealed box from ups or fedex the parts can,t be any good,
I had one guy tell me he would never used USED PARTS...in his car!
.I smiled and ask him how he go here, he looked confused and said "I DROVE HERE"
well ,I said , if you drove here ,by definition its was in a car composed of 100% USED PARTS, if it moved off the dealership lot to do it!
he still seems to find thats a difficult concept to grasp

related info
viewtopic.php?f=87&t=3183&p=9403&hilit=salvage#p9403

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=93&p=10310&hilit=casting+numbers#p10310

viewtopic.php?f=45&t=757

http://hollanderinterchange.net/

http://www.nastyz28.com/sbcmenu.php#chi ... ose_button

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4523

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=845

 

[Indycars]

Can't say it's a place where I like to hang out, but I've been there several times over the years. Mainly to get things that are no longer available as a new part or it would NOT make economic sense to repair something if I had to pay full price.

 

[grumpyvette]

I had a friend recently find two 500 CID caddy engines in a salvage yard, he ask the guys at the front desk what an old caddy v8 would cost him and they said 250 each, IF he unbolted them so the yard truck could just pull them and drop them in his pick-up bed, he said fine!, spent the day unbolting rusty exhaust and greasy bolts and they pulled the engines for him.
now that may not sound like a deal to you guys but if I had a spare $500 ID HAVE JUMPED on that deal also
btw, if you've ever had to stop a project because you could not locate the required matching bolt, or fastener, to install a bracket or accessory or engine component ,
you know how frustrating it will be to have to stop and locate the required fastener or go to a local hardware store and hope they have the required bolt.
and yes theres a great many sizes and types that are rather unique to automotive use and some specific to brands, and models.
now obviously you can spend a small fortune buying a vast assortment for your shops use.
or you can grab a 5 gallon bucket and a small assortment of ratchets wrenches and sockets ,
and visit your local salvage yard and grab some accessory or component you need and in the process,
you can remove and save, and throw several hands full of assorted fasteners in the bucket , on every trip to the salvage yard when your purchasing used re-buildable major components

to re-stock your shops bolt box.
most salvage yards don,t mind this approach IF YOUR BUYING SEVERAL COMPONENTS in the process,
like all the parts and brackets off an engine , a set of cylinder heads, a power steering pump, or intake manifold for example or the disc brakes
most will NOT allow you to simply start pulling a large selection of fasteners , without a significant component purchase, or two too cover the cost of those fasteners.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/fastener-storage-idea.3898/#post-10324

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...spare-bolts-and-assorted-spare-parts-in.3557/

 

[Grumpy]

I just got a call from a buddy that scored a dana 60 rear differential out of a local salvage yard for $200 , so you do occasionally run into deals if you look hard enough.
thats a darn good price for what I think hes got, he brought over a few crap quality photos.
he got it,out of the remains of a 1970 cuda that, according to the vin numbers on the car, had a 440 engine in it originally.
the salvage yard guy said it had been sitting in some guys car port for decades, and they got it when the homes new owner wanted it moved.
the engine and transmission front cap, were long gone, the roof was caved inwards, the dash, and fire wall, had obviously caught fire,
and were damaged,as was the cars glass, rear trunk lid ,
and what was left looked like it had been in a fire, that looks like it was rapidly put out and the car was left to rust for years,
but the rear differential looked ok, paint was not burnt
and the tires never caught on fire and the rubber breather hose on the vent was not melted so I think the differential is ok.
most local salvage yards have no real clue whats out in the yards as inventory changes constantly,
youll need to get out and look and have a detailed list of the cars/trucks that had the parts you need,
keep in mind some yards specialize in older cars and some just take what comes in and scrap older cars on a constant basis.
and ideally the pictures of those cars and trucks,(makes the potential donors easy to spot)
and a pick-up truck, with, a set of portable tools and a decent floor jack and jack stands and a wheel barrow if you decide to pull the trans,
from the local (U-PICK-IT) salvage yard , just get a written quote BEFORE you go through all the work and try too get them to specify,
it includes the trans, converter , shiftier and drive shaft yoke, at a discount price if you buy the transmission, and need that list of extra parts
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/dana-60-all-the-same.12306/#post-60532

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ifferentials-available.1282/page-2#post-55490

every once in a while some guys get a bit creative and come up with an odd but new way to miss-match components , and the result while not stock,its also not too bad either, I could see a 496 BBC and a 4L80E with a full manual conversion, with a 3.73:1 rear gear and a dana 60 differential in something like this being a darn fun and interesting combo of components

Here is a list that I found posted for the trucks that use the 4L80E forChevy.

AVALANCHE 02-03 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 8.1L 4L80E

C/K PICK-UP 1500-2500 95-99 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 5.0L/5.7L/6.0L/7.4L/6.5L DIESEL4L80E 17 BOLT PAN

C/K PICK-UP 1500 00-03 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 6.0L 4L80E

C/K PICK-UP 2500 00-03 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 5.7L/6.0L/7.4L/8.1L/6.5 DIESEL4L80E

C/K PICK-UP 3500 95-03 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 5.0L/5.7L/6.0L/7.4L/8.1L/6.5L DIESEL4L80E 17 BOLTPAN

SUBURBAN 1500-2500 95 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 7.4L/6.5L DIESEL4L80E

SUBURBAN 1500 96-99 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 6.5L DIESEL4L80E

SUBURBAN 2500 96-03 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 5.7L/6.0L/7.4L/8.1L/6.5L DIESEL4L80E

TAHOE/YUKON 95-03 4 SP RWD/4X4 V8 6.0L/8.1L/6.5L DIESEL4L80E

VAN FULL SIZE 2500 96-03 4 SP RWD V6 4.3L V8 4.8L/5.7L/6.0L/8.1L 6.5L DIESEL4L80E 17 BOLT PAN

VAN FULL SIZE 3500 95-03 4 SP RWD V6 4.3L V8 4.8L/5.7L/6.0L/7.4L/8.1L/6.5L DIESEL4L80E17 BOLT PAN

 

[Grumpy]

I recently was asked to pick up a guy at a local Walmart while his Chrysler van was being worked on ,
so he would not be sitting there for the 7-8 hours,
they expected his auto related repair work to take.
he was supposed to get new tires and brakes,
the guy had agreed to the quoted price on the brake job,
and cost of the four tires on the van,
but the guy quoted him $300 for a new space saver spare tire ,
and the tech at Walmart, said the space saver rims could not,
be fitted with a replacement tire,
he would need to purchase a completely new tire & rim combo.
well $300 too me sounder rather exorbitantly over priced.
I suggested he look into a salvage yard visit to replace his defective space saver spare tire!
I called ahead just to see what a tire and rim would likely cost,
at a local u-pick-it auto salvage and as I expected stock,
used or even un-used, spares sold at the salvage yard,
don,t cost anywhere near $100 let alone $300.

 

[Ernest Shaw]

I use a LOT of previously owned parts in my builds. I like the idea of mixing and matching components, always have. Not to mention that there's good money in selling over the internet on some of the harder to come by items. Hollander Interchange Manuals are nice too and will show you a whole new plethora of parts use.

 

[Indycars]

I took a look at their website and it does look like some excellent reference information !

 

[Grumpy]

which website link are you referring too?

 

[Indycars]

.
Hollander Interchange Manuals

http://hollanderinterchange.net/
.

 

[Grumpy]

Tomorrow I plan to go to a pull n save in Phoenix hoping to grab a 700R4.

Yesterday was at the Gilbert location and found a 1989 IROCZ but it had a 5 speed.

Someone else grabbing parts for his Camaro said he had been to the Phoenix location earlier and saw 2 1988 or newer V8 Camaros and both had the auto transmission.

20 years ago I pulled a engine from a self serve yard by myself, was tough.

On pulling a transmission by myself, I'm imagining the steps, the thought of taking the last bolt out and letting transmission down seems nerve racking.

If it just falls and hits the ground, it could damage it, if I let it go on my belly then slide off my belly onto the ground, hmm I have done that before with a 3 speed manual on a 1965 Mustang.

Anyone have any ideas or tips?

Also yes I'm aware a junkyard transmission is a crapshoot, already found a shop to rebuild one, but I have to supply the core.

These things are hard to find now, I want to grab one if there is one.

Having done dozens of similar parts acquisition jobs a U-PULL-IT yards in the past,
ID advise you to discuss with the salvage yard employees what is allowed to be brought into the yard,
and if they provide an engine crane or other major tools or are willing to remove the parts at a minimal cost.
if they will pull the trans and have the listed parts
,you want from the donor car,
at what you consider even a semi-reasonable cost
..go that route, as its far safer
Id sure start by getting a written agreed upon,
price on that transmission and be sure you specify it includes the converter
,the shifter and any connecting electronics you might want,
Many salvage yards have a nasty habit of charging you for every sub-component, individually,
if its not agreed on as included, in on the deal, prior to the work,
and be aware the salvage yard will likely charge you if you destroy parts in the removal process ,
like radiators, radiator supports, frame cross members, power steering racks, fenders, hoods, etc.
this could very easily triple the cost you anticipated if your a butcher.
yeah its only a JUNK CAR until they can justify charging you for additional parts

be sure the salvage yard allows you to bring in some tools and plywood,
ideally allowing you to drive a car or truck in near the donor car,
you need to work safely,
my main concern would be related to having several (4) sturdy jack stands,

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jac ... 34924.html

each mounted on individual 2 ft square section of 3/4" plywood allowing about 24 inches of clearance under the car,
and a good floor jack to get the car rock solid-supported before I started the whole trans removal process.
yeah, a skilled partner would be useful,
obviously having the required tools and a sheet of plywood under the car to keep off the dirt,
and allow use of the floor jack to raise or support the engine or transmission would be helpful

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/