I had an old Hyfire V 690 ignition box and 28880 coil I ran for years that went south last month.
I sent the pair to Mallory (Prestolite Performance) for repair. They deemed the box obsolete and unrepairable. Go figure!
They offered me a rebuilt Mallory 667S Hyfire VIIS Sportsman Ignition box and matching 28880 coil at a fair price so I bought it.
The old box was mounted in the engine compartment. The Tech strongly advised me to mount the new box inside the vehicle. So the new box is now trunk mounted with a new wiring harness running forward and main battery leads from the box directly connected to my trunk mounted battery. The battery is 1 year old and has a consistent 12.8 volts not running and 13+ running.
I snipped and sealed the yellow retard circuit wire (as per the instructions if not needed) that protrude from the box.
I turned the ignition switch on, adjusted the box for 8 cylinders, set the RPM limit, hit the start button and she fired to life in half a crank....for about 5-10 seconds. I figured that was strange so I turned the ignition switch off, then back on, hit the start button and again she fired to life for about 5-10 seconds and quit.
So I re-checked ALL the wiring and deemed it to be correct. It's not brain surgery and I already had the same but "older" 690 box installed and ran for years.
hey grumpy need your thoughts here!
I called Mallory Tech and went through the wiring with him over the phone. Again, deemed correct (like I already didn't know that).
I told him I was triggering the new box with points, same as the old box. I told him if I run my points distributor with a standard 12v coil (which I did to check it) she runs all day, no problems. He said it sound like the distributor is not the problem.
What is happening is the new box when running for the 5-10 seconds will flash all kinds of weird stuff on the LED panel before it quits and after quitting sometimes a number is still lit on the LED or a dot or just nothing at all. I told the tech this and he said I have a battery voltage problem. I told him that could not be because the battery checks out at 12.8 standing and with the 140 amp alternator holds over 13 running. All the connections are clean and corrosion free. It also spins the engine like a banshie. I have 2/0 battery cable and separate frame to body grounds He insisted it's battery voltage.
So I hung up, took the box out, put it in the engine compartment and re-wired it again in that location (like the old box was). Did not use any switches, all direct connections, SAME THING! From what I have read the 667S box will run with voltages between 10v and 18v.
ANYONE else have a problem with the Mallory Hyfire VIIS 667S box??? Someone out there must have, because I have the Refurbished box someone turned in for warranty replacement! I need all the ammo I can get because these Mallory techs are treating me like a guy trying to wire a pro box with speaker wire!!! Thank You.
Id suggest getting an ANALOG multi meter
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BA841Y/ref ... B002BA841Y
http://www.4secondsflat.com/CD1-MSD-Crane Comparison.htm
,and connecting it across the power and ground leads and looking for voltage fluctuations other than the expected jump from 12.8 volts dc to 13.4 volts dc when the cars started, Id then check the ignition hot lead to ground the same way.
ANALOG meters have a needle that bounces with voltage surges, so it will tell you things that a digital meter may not. some engines have ignitions that shut off the ignition voltage if the oil pressure doesn,t jump to 5 psi in 5 seconds so check sensors.
ARE YOU RUNNING SUPPRESSION IGNITION WIRE,?? vs metal conductor wire, these newer ignitions WON<T run with the older solid metallic core ignition wire
ID verify the coils not the problem by temporarily swapping in a spare coil to test with and verify coil polarity,
if you don,t see any problems Id contact the vendor and arrange an exchange, as your probably dealing with a defective box
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