"HEY GRUMPY?
I bent most of my intake valves , on my newly re-camed engine, thats why the engines running like crap! now what??"
all valve clearances need to be verified during assembly , ideally with clay on the piston once the cams properly degreed in, the yellow clay shows valves close on the edge of the valve notch
obviously youll need to pull the heads at a minimum,which i suspect you may have done already< and inspect everything and do the required repair work, chances are excellent that the cam was installed indexed incorrectly or there was not the correct piston to valve clearance., if thats the case the pistons will need to be notched for valve clearance and the cam installed correctly (DEGREED IN) so you know its indexed correctly, a dot-to-dot install can at times not be correct.
Id pitch the bent valves and get new ones, but what would concern me more than the valves is the REASON they got bent! it takes hundreds of pounds of force to bend valves and in most cases thats due to NOT CORRECTLY CHECKING VALVE TRAIN AND VALVE TO PISTON CLEARANCES CAREFULLY, OR RUNNING THE VALVE TRAIN UP INTO VALVE FLOAT RPM LEVELS or in RARE CASES GROSSLY OVER ADJUSTED VALVES.
I strongly suggest a .080-.100 MINIMUM valve to piston clearance and don,t forget the edge of the valve notch needs about a .060 radial edge clearance to the valve edge. keep in mind the cams intended operational rpms and limitations, you need the correct valve train components for that intended rpm level, most hydraulic cams start to have valve control issues at 6000rpm even with newer springs, you certainly need to think it thru and in most cases use a rocker stud girdle over 6000rpm on a chevy v8
if you just install new valves with no other changes your doomed to repeat the problem
RELATED THREADS
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=501&p=11829&hilit=clay+valve#p11829
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1489
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=4957
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=282
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=130&p=15937#p15937
I bent most of my intake valves , on my newly re-camed engine, thats why the engines running like crap! now what??"
all valve clearances need to be verified during assembly , ideally with clay on the piston once the cams properly degreed in, the yellow clay shows valves close on the edge of the valve notch
obviously youll need to pull the heads at a minimum,which i suspect you may have done already< and inspect everything and do the required repair work, chances are excellent that the cam was installed indexed incorrectly or there was not the correct piston to valve clearance., if thats the case the pistons will need to be notched for valve clearance and the cam installed correctly (DEGREED IN) so you know its indexed correctly, a dot-to-dot install can at times not be correct.
Id pitch the bent valves and get new ones, but what would concern me more than the valves is the REASON they got bent! it takes hundreds of pounds of force to bend valves and in most cases thats due to NOT CORRECTLY CHECKING VALVE TRAIN AND VALVE TO PISTON CLEARANCES CAREFULLY, OR RUNNING THE VALVE TRAIN UP INTO VALVE FLOAT RPM LEVELS or in RARE CASES GROSSLY OVER ADJUSTED VALVES.
I strongly suggest a .080-.100 MINIMUM valve to piston clearance and don,t forget the edge of the valve notch needs about a .060 radial edge clearance to the valve edge. keep in mind the cams intended operational rpms and limitations, you need the correct valve train components for that intended rpm level, most hydraulic cams start to have valve control issues at 6000rpm even with newer springs, you certainly need to think it thru and in most cases use a rocker stud girdle over 6000rpm on a chevy v8
if you just install new valves with no other changes your doomed to repeat the problem
RELATED THREADS
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=501&p=11829&hilit=clay+valve#p11829
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1489
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=4957
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=282
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=130&p=15937#p15937