I don’t think this looks right
- Thread starter DorianL
- Start date
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Looks bent Yes.
Richard will know for sure on a C3.
On a 2nd Gen Trans Am the clutch pushrod to the throwout fork is dead nuts straight.
This looks like an earlier rod or from a ‘60’s pickup, but yes, Corvette clutch push rods did have an off-set.
(See photo)
This Corvette push rod connects the clutch pedal to the cross shaft. About 16.5 long and goes through the firewall.
Known as: Corvette 1968-1981 Clutch Pedal Push Rod.
Known as: Corvette 1968-1981 Clutch Pedal Push Rod.
Ira, My friends call me Rich
The push rod you showed me just looks closer to the truck rods when I look at the tapered part before the threads begin. Sometimes the truck rods are longer and guys will cut some of the threaded end to match. I’m looking at pictures so that can throw me off, but I really don’t think it matters as long as that push rod is about 16.5” long. The crooked shape is so the angle works between the foot pedal and the clutch linkage.
The push rod you showed me just looks closer to the truck rods when I look at the tapered part before the threads begin. Sometimes the truck rods are longer and guys will cut some of the threaded end to match. I’m looking at pictures so that can throw me off, but I really don’t think it matters as long as that push rod is about 16.5” long. The crooked shape is so the angle works between the foot pedal and the clutch linkage.
Does the pedal for operating the clutch feel funny?
So What is your plan of attack now that the motor and trans are out of the car?
It does feel a bit funny. But then again, I have no basis to compare. I have no idea what a C3 corvette clutch should feel like. All I do know is that mine is a bit vague compared to other manual cars I have driven.
What is my plan of attack?
I am not sure exactly.
I am stripping the paint off of at least one interior panel every few days... but I am not sure that it makes sense to redo the interior unless the dirty job of the engine bay is done first.
Yesterday evening I removed the radiator support. (The seals will need to be replaced) and I will remove the headlight actuators. I want a clear view of the headlight mechanism and fiber optics to make sure everything is in reasonable shape.
I also want to pull off the wiper door (to get it in great/smooth working order) as well as to make sure the firewall to cage riveted area is properly sealed and the drainage is unobstructed.
Once that is done, I guess the first step is to rebuild and upgrade the suspension. From there... detail the engine bay and tidy up the wiring after making sure that the fiber optics work well.
New clutch
Rebuild shifter
Rebuild Z-bar
New motor mounts.
Clean and paint engine.
Possibly Jet Hot coat the headers...
The engine I may or may not mess with. It turns out that the guy I sold my Trick Flow heads has still not used them. I may make an offer.
Then once that is squared away, the interior?
What is my plan of attack?
I am not sure exactly.
I am stripping the paint off of at least one interior panel every few days... but I am not sure that it makes sense to redo the interior unless the dirty job of the engine bay is done first.
Yesterday evening I removed the radiator support. (The seals will need to be replaced) and I will remove the headlight actuators. I want a clear view of the headlight mechanism and fiber optics to make sure everything is in reasonable shape.
I also want to pull off the wiper door (to get it in great/smooth working order) as well as to make sure the firewall to cage riveted area is properly sealed and the drainage is unobstructed.
Once that is done, I guess the first step is to rebuild and upgrade the suspension. From there... detail the engine bay and tidy up the wiring after making sure that the fiber optics work well.
New clutch
Rebuild shifter
Rebuild Z-bar
New motor mounts.
Clean and paint engine.
Possibly Jet Hot coat the headers...
The engine I may or may not mess with. It turns out that the guy I sold my Trick Flow heads has still not used them. I may make an offer.
Then once that is squared away, the interior?
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a few years ago trickflow heads were cutting edge... now theres many better options,
,using those heads would depend on the goals you set, and price you could get them for,
and condition,they are in, obviously
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-brief-look-at-clutches.447/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...xperienced-and-skilled-help.16177/#post-97651
standard diaphragm replacement clutch (most are inferior in my experience, as most are designed for daily drivers cars not full power shifts)
borg and beck style (these tend to result in noticeably more clutch petal effort but if correctly assembled they tend to last longer and work noticeably better)
keep in mind I almost never built any engine SBC or BBC , to install in any manual transmission performance car like a corvette or camaro or nova that did not have impressive torque,
450-600 ft lbs
and I expected the cars or owners to use those engines like a performance muscle car or corvette is frequently driven,
which means the cars occasionally shifted at 6500 rpm under full power.
many diaphragm clutch pressure plates don,t like that, much
a diaphragm clutch works ok at lower rpms and makes for a marginally lower clutch petal effort, so they are popular with the daily driver crowd, but seldom serious performance applications.
granted things may have changed, in the last 5-6 years,but I never found a
HAYS,
ZOOM,
centerforce,
ACdelco
DIAPHRAGM clutch design that worked as well as the borg & beck pressure plates in a racing application.
,using those heads would depend on the goals you set, and price you could get them for,
and condition,they are in, obviously
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-brief-look-at-clutches.447/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...xperienced-and-skilled-help.16177/#post-97651
standard diaphragm replacement clutch (most are inferior in my experience, as most are designed for daily drivers cars not full power shifts)
borg and beck style (these tend to result in noticeably more clutch petal effort but if correctly assembled they tend to last longer and work noticeably better)
keep in mind I almost never built any engine SBC or BBC , to install in any manual transmission performance car like a corvette or camaro or nova that did not have impressive torque,
450-600 ft lbs
and I expected the cars or owners to use those engines like a performance muscle car or corvette is frequently driven,
which means the cars occasionally shifted at 6500 rpm under full power.
many diaphragm clutch pressure plates don,t like that, much
a diaphragm clutch works ok at lower rpms and makes for a marginally lower clutch petal effort, so they are popular with the daily driver crowd, but seldom serious performance applications.
granted things may have changed, in the last 5-6 years,but I never found a
HAYS,
ZOOM,
centerforce,
ACdelco
DIAPHRAGM clutch design that worked as well as the borg & beck pressure plates in a racing application.
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I don’t know what a diaphragm design clutch is, all I know is I have been using Zoom F series F2 clutches for twenty years with zero issues. I raced a modified Firebird Formula with this clutch and I abused the hell out of it and it was still full of life when I sold it, my 71 vette has one, bought the car with it already on. Installed another on my TJ Wrangler off road used - (v8 installed) for rock climbing, again no problems after 5 years heavy use.