I need some help building my 383

First off, I apologize for not introducing myself on the intro page, however I will do so later due to the fact that right now I'm on limited time at work.

Anyhow, way back in 2002 I bought a 1995 2 door Tahoe with all the goodies.....had 128K on it. After I put about 50K on her or so, the engine still ran unbelievably, but I wanted to go ahead and start buying my parts for an eventual 383 build. The 95's and earlier as everyone is probably already aware of, ran off a TBI setup. I purchased an Eagle cast crank P/N 103523750, the vortec heads with the good castings, and a TBI vortec intake. In the meantime, the truck caught on fire and burned to the ground. It was a sad day, but at any rate, here I am, 7 years later and I've bought basically the same truck, except a '96 model. I have heard both good and bad about the 96'-97' year models and the whole CSPI vs. MPFI argument, but we can discuss that later. At 236K, I've spun a rod bearing. As you can probably guess, I've decided to stroke it. I'm probably as "green" as you can get when it comes to engine BUILDING, but I have pretty good knowledge on engines themselves as well as there components, etc. Long story short, I'm not an idiot when it comes to engines and what makes them work. I realize that with this year model the only thing I can use from my previous project is the crank (already sold the heads/intake). I've spent the last week or so reading different project builds and so forth, just more or less soaking it what ideas other people have had, what works and what doesn't. All advice would be appreciated, so I'll start with what I had in mind and we'll go from there:

1996 K-1500 4x4 2 door Tahoe
L31 5.7L 350 Vortec
4L60E (brand new with goodies) with 10-bolt rear and 3.42 gear
275/55/20 Tires

Eagle cast crank SBC 350, 3.75" stroke 1 pc. rear main

What I had in mind:

Manley H-beam rods P/N 14050 or Eagle 5.7" ESP 3-D H Beam P/N CRS5700B3D
Either KB or JE/SRP forged aluminum pistons (not sure on the details < need help there)
Plan on tweaking the heads a bit, but not exactly sure which route to go)
Plan on running a mild cam (need help here as well)

I realize this is a very broad and subtle intro, but right now I just want get my main idea across. This truck is going to be a daily driver, so I don't want to build a screamer, but when I punch the skinny I wanna GO!! I just want a powerful truck that is dependable and last a long time all while staying in the 13-16 MPG range. Thanks in advance for any advice/help. Looking forward to seeing what everyone can come up with.
 
not a problem!
Ill assume here you want the car /truck mostly as transportation,
but want a bit more than stock in power?
the first step Id suggest is buying all the components from a single source in a package deal, and deal with a decent engine shop you can trust as it tends to limit the potential for finger pointing if some parts won,t work well once you go to assemble the components.
Id strongly suggest having a long talk with the machineshop or engine builder of your choice before you start buying more components
 
Yea, I'm gonna be driving the truck everday, but I also have a pretty good size boat I pull with it as well. I'm gonna be shooting for somewhere between 300-350 HP. I just got off the phone with my engine builder, as well as Jegs, and they gave me a pretty competitive quote on some Speed-Pro pistons, moly rings, clevite bearings, and some SIR rods, but I'm just calling around checking prices right now. I'm also gonna be running roller rockers on this motor, and I need to come up with a cam choice pretty soon too.
 
to select a decent hydraulic roller cam (or flat tappet hydraulic cam should you want to go that route) youll need to know, if you need to pass emmission testing, your valve train clearances, the cam to connecting rod clearance to verify if youll want a small base circle cam,the transmission,youll be using, if its an auto trans the converter stall speed,your rear gear ratio, engine compression and the engines expected operating rpm band at a minimum, youll also need to know if your sticking to basically a nearly stock tbi intake or upgrading to a differant mpfi style injection, and if your running headers and a low restriction exhaust system.

youve answered some of those questions
(4L60E (brand new with goodies) with 10-bolt rear and 3.42 gear
275/55/20 Tires)

but the pistons selected and converter stall speed and possiable need to pass emmision testing,clearance issues, etc. will need to be answered
 
WOW! I can't believe it's been this long since I've posted! I apologize for not keeping everything up to date.

Long of the short, motor is done and has been for some time. I'm still working the details out on it and I need some more wonderful advice. Below is the package I built:

Eagle Crank 3.75 inch stroke
Manley H-beam rods 5.7 inch
Speed-Pro flat tops .30 over
Stock heads, stock cam
Stock CSPI injection
Gibson Shorty Headers, True Duals, Flowmaster 40 series X 2, 3 inch aluminum exhaust from headers back, cut the cats off
4L60E with goodies, stock converter
10 bolt rear with 3.42

Basically I built the mildest 383 you can build, but you can REALLY tell the difference. I am LOVING IT! However, when I cut the cats off, it started SWALLOWING fuel. My mileage went from 14-15 MPG to around 10 MPG! Now it's just killing me driving this beast 30+ miles to and from work everyday, although it's still probably worth it. Is the computer reading lean and dumping more fuel?

Also, on these L31 motors, is there a camshaft and/or crankshaft sensor that would be thrown off due to the 3.75 inch stroke on the crank? Check engine light is on, indicating an engine misfire, however the engine is not missing a lick. It's definitely a very healthy sounding SBC. Looking forward to hearing any advice you guys have!

Thanks,

Shannon
 
step one, to locate causes you need detailed info on symptoms or at least info on what changes with basic testing

do a compression test , post the numbers,if youve got a fuel gauge on your fuel rail, start the car let it run a few minutes then turn it off and watch the fuel gauge if it drops off on pressure the fuel pressure regulator or injectors may be leaking, it should hold steady for at least 5 minutes then only slowly drop over the next 30 minutes
verify the ignition timing, removing the cats tends to change the required total timing
and do a vacuum leak test,
a bad 02 sensor, or its connection can cause the problem, if they are over 2 years old replace them
because a vacuum leak can cause that,
then pull and post a CLEAR picture of all 8 plugs so I can see whats going on in the combustion chambers,
youll be amazed at what you can learn reading plugs

theres also a slim chance theres a bad exhaust gasket causing the EFI to read lean, check that
 
Talked to a guy @ www.jimsperformance.com today and he informed me that the "spider" throttle body assembly was notorious for failure and recommended I upgrade to the new style. Anyone know anything about this? Is it a fairly simple upgrade?

Also, he said that extra .25 inch of crank doesn't have anything to do with the P1345 trouble code I'm getting. He seems to think my distributor is a tooth off one way or another and said that these motors will run a tooth off.

Does any of this seem right? Please help!

Symptoms I'm having now, are white smoke, drinking fuel, have noticed a MILD skip in the idle when I'm in a drive thru or sitting at a red light.
 
not being there to test I,m inclined to think the cam or cam timings out of sync a sensors defective
 
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