installing a remote ford solenoid/ chevy starter

[grumpyvette]

if your having problems with the engine starting only once the engine hot..and if the ignition timing checks out to be correct and the carbs adjusted correctly you may be having problems with the solenoid on the starter over heating, thats cured in several ways but swapping to a remote solenoid is the easy way
Id start by cleaning the battery terminals and cable connections carefully, a great many problems blamed on battery's and fuses are basically high resistance or intermittent connections, then use a multi meter to see what your dealing with

YES ,READ THRU THE SUB LINKS

ORIGINAL SOLENOID WIRE CONNECTIONS

the advantage of the remote mount ford solenoid is mostly the remote ford style solenoid usually does not operate at nearly the heat levels as its not mounted near the engine exhaust, on the starter, thus the electrical resistance tends to be significantly less in the cooler temps, that and its generally far easier to test if placed on an inner fender or firewall location
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-SS588/?rtype=10

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm

http://www.horsepowermonster.com/2012/s ... tion-tips/

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=458

http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575&hilit=battery+connection#p8575

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... ogId=10053

home depot sells thermal barrier blanket material that effectively keeps starters cool for far less than most specialized auto parts stores sell it., just wrap in double thick around the starter, use aluminum duct tape, and two band clamps

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... key=Search
and two clamps to secure it in place
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10053

a heat shield on the starter may help

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/103...MIme3p16ec5AIVTFmGCh00FwMxEAQYAiABEgL49fD_BwE

READ THESE THREADS/links

http://www.maliburacing.com/starter_solenoid.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3678/

http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/s ... shield.htm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010402/?rtype=10

this generally solves some heat related starting issues

http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/ ... _Problems/

http://www.drdetailshop.com/STARTINSTALL.html

unfortunately that type of electrical wire, repair work is almost a fore gone expectation with a close to 50 year old car,
but with patience and a decent 350 -400 watt solder gun and some, flux, lead/tin solder and shrink tube its repairable,
just be sure to slip on the shrink tube insulation, and clean and flux the connections before soldering

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...stimated-costs-are-shocking.11874/#post-56312

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3105/#post-68805

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/heat-shrink-tubing.1443/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-46703

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...urrent-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-33363
theres an easy test,you can do if the engine consistently won,t start once its hot too see if its the CPU , ignition switch or the starter solenoid, put the car up on a TWO POST lift, put the transmission in NEUTRAL,(SO NOTHING IN THE DRIVE TRAIN SPINS WHILE YOUR UNDER THE CAR!) so you have access to the starter from under the car,and get the engine hot, enough, so the key won,t start the car, then you temporarily bye-pass those components, you just test by taking a set of jumper cables and hook one to the battery hot side and touch the starter main battery connection to the starter, if the starter spins is likely the original car wiring,solenoid, ignition switch or the connections are not working correctly, and a remote solenoid might help