just started reloading

grumpyvette

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
" hey grumpy?
I am an inexperience handgun reloader with the idea of loading volume ammo for practice. I loaded a bunch of .38 Specials with 5.0 grains of Unique and 125 grain Ranier jacketed bullets. Just shot some and they seem dirty, plus the front third of the case is smoke hazed.
Is there a cleaner powder to use?
Would a tighter crimp maybe help? There is no cannelure on these bullets.
Might going up in charge weight several tenths help?
Thanks in advance for any ideas."

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/new-reloading-manuals.2379/#post-56752

http://stevespages.com/page8a.htm


that "front third of the case is smoke hazed." is a good indication the powder charge is so low its not fully expanding and sealing the case to the chamber walls or the bullet diam. smaller than ideal or the crimps a bit loose,this tends to allow the powder to only partly burn before the bullet exits the bore,adding a bit more, powder and a firmer crimp tends to allow higher pressure and cleaner powder burns,unique is not a super clean powder but its far cleaner if the pressure higher,so it burns more completely, you might want to look carefully at the suggested starting and max loads and step the charge weight up just a bit higher,getting a bit more pressure in the case reduces soot and seals the case better, yes I know it doesn,t seem like a few tenths of a grain are critical, but youll find the load works better if you add a 1/10 or so more powder and get a decent crimp, work up slowly,in small increased stages and keep notes but IM sure youll find a slightly hotter load and a firmer crimp helps reduce that hazing

http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/defau ... er&Source=

http://archives.gunsandammo.com/content ... 38-special
 
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If you get into shooting a revolver with cast bullets youll quickly find that theres both bullet designs with and without gas checks, and because gas checks cost money and the equipment to properly install them and the extra steps required take more time and effort theres a strong tendency to try to avoid their use in most people new to bullet casting.
theres no question that you can find accurate bullets for many applications that don,t require gas checks.
but gas checks have other benefits besides the tendency to reduce bore leading, they also tend to make the base of the bullet far more uniform, and far less vulnerable to flame cutting or casting flaws, this increases accuracy, reduces the tendency to have unexpected occasional flyers from casting flaws.
I shoot thousands of cast pistol bullets, I can assure you consistency in the projectile base and diameter, alloy mix, the lube used and alloy hardness along with consistency in casting method and heat used while casting,will all effect your results, and in my experience you darn sure need to pay attention to sizing and lube,the cylinder throat diam, needs to be a tiny bit larger than forcing cone and bullets must be at or slightly larger than bore size if top accuracy is the goal.
keep in mind cast bullets will function very effectively if correctly manufactured at a fairly narrow velocity and pressure level, but above or below that pressure or velocity results tend to degrade.
Both the bullets pictured below are accurate in my revolvers and both weigh similar amounts, both kill deer well, and theres zero question the non-gas check design is easier to cast and use, at 50 yards theres not much difference, but out at 100 yards the gas check design tends to be more accurate in all my 44 mag and 445 dwsm revolvers. Ive found and youll generally find the medium burn rate powders like BLUE DOT and slightly lower velocity's with the non-gas check designs tend to work better that max loads with something like H110 or 296 that will allow with the gas check design.
Id also point out that most guys shooting a revolver even off the bench rest can,t consistently shoot tight enough groups to see the difference,which might only expand the average group by an inch or so, so the choice might not be critical

gascheck1.jpg

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you'll need too occasionally buy a new reloading manual simply because the available powder and projectile selection changes over time, and there are occasional mis-prints , cross checking between several manuals will make that rather obvious, you'll always want to cross check any loads listed from at least THREE different sources and start with the starting level loads and work up to what pressure levels your particular gun works best with, and THIS DOES VARY!
if your only loading for a hunting rifle a good single stage press produces very accurate ammo reasonably cheaply

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/513567/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-single-stage-press
Its a good Idea to buy projectiles and powder and primers in larger lots or in bulk, so you have enough on hand for several years, of shooting, once you find what a particular gun likes, because the manufacturers have the nasty habit of either discontinuing or changing specs,on projectiles and powders.
once you find a particular combo that shoots consistent one hole hundred yard groups , its really frustrating to find that particular bullet or powders discontinued!
this may sound like it will cost a great deal, but think about it, most guys will seldom shoot a large game hunting rifle more than 100 or so times a year if that, maybe 40-80 over a years time at the range then 4-6 cartridges actually hunting.
if your loading for something like an AR15 buying in bulk lots of 1000 or more lowers the cost of components slightly, and having a decent progressive reloading press makes sense

https://www.dillonprecision.com/customize-reloader.html
https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/8/pkg_id/9

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/57...tridge-reloading-9th-edition-reloading-manual
rlmn1.png

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1064217655/lyman-reloading-handbook-49th-edition-reloading-manual
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/537267/speer-reloading-manual-14
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/158738/nosler-reloading-guide-8-reloading-manual
rlmn4.png

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...-Reloading-Manual-2nd-Edition-by-Richard-Lee-
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http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...cluding-Supplements-Number-1-24-By-Ken-Waters
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https://www.google.com/webhp?source...nual+reviews&tbm=shop&spd=6195891438066969302
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as in most things having accurate reference materials helps a great deal
petlo.png

lyman1.png


lymanrl1.jpg

hornadyrl1.jpg





heres a basic powder burn rate chart, refer to the manuals and always verify in at least three and compare the charge and bullet weights listed
burnrated.png

http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/defau ... pe=Handgun

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

http://www.nosler.com/load-data/

http://www.speer-bullets.com/products/reloading_manual/

http://www.accuratepowder.com/load-data/

http://www.barnesbullets.com/information/load-data/

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/
 
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/575530 ... ing-manual

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/251279 ... ken-waters

IF YOUR JUST STARTING TO RELOAD BUY THESE MANUALS LINKED ABOVE

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

http://www.nosler.com/load-data/

http://www.speer-bullets.com/products/reloading_manual/

http://www.accuratepowder.com/load-data/

http://www.barnesbullets.com/information/load-data/

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/


BTW, IVE RELOADED FOR OVER 50 YEARS AND THERE'S BEEN A CONSTANT REDUCTION IN MAX LOADS LISTED in most reloading manuals, the starter loads in my mid 60s-1970 era hornady and speer manuals now are easily 10%-15% LOWER ON MANY CARTRIDGES, and peak listed loads are almost all reduced several grains, compare a few vintage manuals youll see what I mean, this is partly due to better more accurate test equipment, but mostly to being overly cautious about law suites

rlm1.jpg


rlm2.jpg


http://store.tjconevera.com/oncefiredbrass.html

http://www.starlinebrass.com/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/new-reloading-manuals.2379/#post-56752

anyone who reloads knows what a P.I.T.A. it can be to look for and collect your brass,
and having a way to easily collect the fired cases,
and not have them bouncing of the guy in the next shooting bench at the range,
makes it much more pleasant.
http://8541tactical.com/2013/06/07/3bucc-brass-savr-brass-catcher-review/

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2014/09/24/brass-wrangler-ar-15-brass-catcher/

https://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/the-gun-nuts/gear-review-caldwell-ar-15-brass-catcher

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/5...atcher-ar-15-picatinny-rail-mount-nylon-black

http://www.gracomodels.com/bigcatcher.html


https://ads.midwayusa.com/brass-catchers-deflectors-and-pouches/br?cid=19758&cm_mmc=ps_google-_-google-_-ST_Range_Supplies_Equipment_Beta_G-_-brass+catcher&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=ST_Range Supplies Equipment_Beta_G&utm_term=+brass +catcher&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxcXy37v72AIVVbnACh07yA1vEAMYASAAEgKISfD_BwE

I'm looking for suggestions on a case catcher that is both reasonably priced and easily used ,
that can be used at a local range to catch fired shell cases, that can quickly be attached to almost any basic AR15 rifle
I hate chasing cases, I have currently one thats basically a butterfly net,
that is attached to a camera tripod separate from the rifle,
it works flawlessly but only if you shoot from one location
so any suggestions welcome, yeah theres several listed on midsouth, midway, and other web sites But I don,t know what works
 
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youll obviously need the dies shell holders,and a decent reloading press, powder scale, manuals etc.
I've also got a mix of RCBS, Lee, Hornady and Redding dies.
the dies with carbide sizing ring
insertscarbin.jpg

carbin.jpg

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and small holes drilled to allow trapped case lube to exit the die without deforming the case shoulders are preferred.
rdies1.jpg

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rdies3.jpg

having a micrometer handy to measure case head and neck diam. certainly helps and a caliper to measure case length wont hurt either
use of case lube is mandatory, but you can get by with excellent results using vasoline on an un-inked stamp pad works
smear then use a hair drier to soak in, you want minimal but full consistent case coverage
https://www.amazon.com/Shiny-AS-SHI...ocphy=9012039&hvtargid=pla-491910837320&psc=1
 
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